Help for TV/satellite cabling

I'm in the process of recabling my house for terrestial TV as well as Sky and need some advice/recommendations for the setup.
I'd like to keep everything as tidy as possible and so am considering using a face plate with two sockets - one for an aerial type connection and the other for the satellite connection. I had a look at Maplin and can see a couple of possibilities that I assume will do:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo 6&&source&doy=search http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo0775&&source &doy=search
Is it worth going for the second one, a screened face plate? Exactly what does screening do? Will I have to have special cable to use it or is there any special way that I have to wire?
Also, how do the external satellite and aerial cables connect to the face plate? Do they have to be terminated in a particular way? And what about the internal leads connecting the sockets on the face plate to the TV and satellite receiver - do they have to be male/male, male/female or some other odd combination of terminators.
Finally, is it worth getting a decent quality low-loss aerial cable reel to connect the external TV aerial to the face plate, or will standard coaxial cable be good enough?
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Inquisitive wrote:

I recently wired up a sky box with about 6m of standard aerial cable from the dish and everything is just fine. Having said that I also have cable TV distributed aroudn the house (from the RF out) and there is significant loss in quality. The connections types don't matter so long as they connect well. If I were doing it again I'd use higher quality aerial cable for the distibution.
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adder1969 wrote:

Is satellite cable the same as standard aerial cable, or did you just use standard aerial cable instead of satellite cable? I'm a newbie in terms of the different cables and was under the impression that TV and satellite are distributed via different types of wire....
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Inquisitive wrote:

If you're running new cables, use satellite grade, CT100 or similar for everything. Saving a few pence by using ordinary coax could well be a false economy.
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Adrian A wrote:

Great, that makes life a little easier!
Does that mean the only thing that has to be different are the termination connectors? The wall plate (link above) has a TV and satellite connection - do I need to terminate the wires between the aerial/satellite and wall plate or will they simply wire directly into the wall plate connector? I assume that the (short) leads from the wall plate to the TV and satellite receiver will have to be terminated at both ends?
Thanks for all your help.
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Inquisitive wrote:

What's sold in Wickes as satellite cable is thicker cable with more screening. It's classed as "low loss" I believe. I've got no problems with regular co-ax with three joins between the dish and the box.
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adder1969 wrote:

You can buy good quality CT100 cable from MAPLIN by the metre or in drums, thios has a foil screen under the braid for better signla performance and interference rejection... TLC also sell it, but theirs has a foamed dielectric core - never used that stuff so don't know how it compares.
Use F-Type connectors everywhere, I bought mine from CPC.
You can get twist on versions if you are only doing a few, otherwise a crimp on version is better - but you need to factor in cost of tool.
Just connected up my CT100 patch panel yesterday 40 CT100 outlets all terminated - only a simple patch to a 6 way amp and it's outlets to 3 x TV so far. Sky etc. yet to be done. but at least all cables are in and terminated.
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Osprey wrote:

Yes. I use F-connectors for all coax connections. Only for the final connection to a TV would I use a TV coax connector.

I only use the twist-on type and have done so for years. I find them to be completely reliable and easy to re-use should the connection need to be remade for whatever reason.
--
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The Sky Digital FAQ: http://tinyurl.com/8vef5
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Jomtien wrote:

Yup, same here
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Cheers,

John.

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Use the same stuff as for satellite.
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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A screened faceplate should reduce the chances of interference of DTT
See "Improving UK Aerial Installations: Review of Technical Performance" on http://www.dtg.org.uk/publications/books.html
Or you can make your own using F Plugs and F barrels on a blank faceplate - see link below

Use CT100 or foam filled PF100
See: http://www.wrightsaerials.tv/coaxcablequalityhmdim.htm
www.satcure.co.uk
--

Michael Chare





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Michael Chare wrote:

I haven't used screened facplates - too expensive and can't see the need. What I did was simply buy blank faceplates, drill a hole and fit an F-Type Bulkhead connector ... this maintains screen continuity - no exposed core at all ... unlike some face plates with screw terminals for the cable (arrrgh !) Bulk head connectors SECON2 ... 2.63 for 10 ! http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=SECON2
Use these on standard blanking plates (2 or so) and a quailty and very cheap outlet.
Screening the faceplate would make zero difference when using these
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Inquisitive wrote:

Yes, especially if you want error free terrestrial digital piped around the house.

The screening helps keep unwanted signals out of the system.

All the cables should be CAI approved satellite grade cable like CT100. You may get away with a lesser cable in some cases, but you risk creating problems with reception errors.
The connectors can be any sex you like - but the convention these days is to place TV outputs on male connectors and inputs on female (a guideline than many wall plates don't follow). Given the choice between the older Belling Lee type co-ax connectors and modern F Type connectors the latter are to be preferred. Connection to the back of the socket will vary with brand of socket.

"Low loss" is "standard" (and often a poor choice of name for a cable that is often anything but). You really want a CT100 style cable with both foil and braided screen.
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John.

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"John Rumm" wrote

The most expensive option is all copper (I was sold this as being the "best"). That is: copper conductor, copper wire screen and copper foil screen. Cheaper offerings have aluminium foil screening. Couldn't tell you the actual implications of this. As it's hopefully a one-off job, pays to fit the best IMHO.
Phil
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Thanks for all the useful info.
Could someone recommend a make of cable and/or vendor they have used in the past that provides high-quality CAI approved CT100 style cable. I imagine I'll be needing between 50-100m in length. I'd like to go for the best quality I can get my hands on as this is indeed a one-off project.
John Rumm wrote:

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I use this http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId 31796&ts&985&id7838 which was Webro WF100 when I ordered my last batch. Very good it is too.
Go carefully when you connect up the faceplates. Use the deeper (socket) back boxes and make sure no braid and inner core touch. Also keep the inner core as short as possible to avoid interference entering the system where there is no screen on the cable, and don't kink, pinch or squash the cables as this can alter their impedance.
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Doctor D wrote:

Thanks for the heads-up - I've been looking for decent cable available on t'internet, and that's about the same price for 100m that I was expecting to pay for 50m. 100m would be more useful... Don't much like the look of their co-ax plugs, mind you.
Do Screwfix trade counters carry a wide range of stock ? It'd be more convenient to drop in and buy this sort of thing than wait in for infernal couriers.
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I understand their trade counters carry stock, or deliver it free the next day (or so I was told!)
Screwfix co-ax plugs are not good, they work okay if you solder them on though.
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Maplins have FT-100 cable at half price. This means 100m is 64, which means normally it would cost 128. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=XS16S&DOY=8m1
The screwfix WF100 comes out at 44 for 100m.
Anyone care to say one is better. Is Maplin cable grossly overpriced?
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Wickes satellite cable is about 28 squid for a 100m drum. I've had no bother with it but I've never used it on a long run.
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