Screw question

I usually use drywall screws from home depot. I want to order some 'good' screws from McFeeleys. What kind do you buy for indoor furniture? Black oxide? Unplated dry lube? Black phosphate?

Confused...

Reply to
Garage_Woodworks
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Since most of what I've done is marine related, I standardized on S/S a long time ago.

Found that coarse thread, self tapping, sheet metal screws do a great job in wood, so that's what I use and haven't looked back.

Buy full boxes from Jamestown Distributors, so the cost isn't too bad.

BTW, do use some el-cheapo deck screws from H/D, strictly for temp work such as holding plywood in position while fiberglass is applied. Screws are then removed and trashed.

Have fun.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

These are my favorite for indoor furniture:

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Reply to
Max

For general use, I use their dry lube square drive. Plus brass plated for cabinet hinges. j4

Reply to
jo4hn

I like the yellow zinc plated for general furniture work.

You're going to like those screws. No tapered threads and very easy to drive without slips and cam-out.

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Reply to
B A R R Y

Why confused if corrosion isn't a problem? If the fastener won't show the finish is immaterial. If it shows, get the color you want.

One caveat: don't use steel screws (other than SS) in oak (or Western red cedar). Brass or bronze are fine, bronze is stronger. With either, first fasten with a steel screw then remove it and replace with the non-corroding one.

Reply to
dadiOH

Depends on the "look" you want. All the platings other than galvanizing are for appearance mostly.

Reply to
J. Clarke

Garage_Woodworks

There was a very good article in either Popular Woodworking or Fine Woodworking last month on just this topic. I am not near my magazines right now so I can't say which. Maybe another reader can.

Joe.... Website:

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Blog:
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Reply to
Chiefwoodworker

Unless you have a very specific application, the common unplanted dry lube will work fine. These are probably 10 times more resistant to snapping than dry wall screws. I have used dry lubed screws out doors with only a hint of discoloration after 15 years. This is not to say that you should use them out doors but about 15 years ago I used them along the rail road ties landscaping to string Christmas lights. They are still there and look fine.

Other choices work better for marine applications and or when aesthetics come into play. Typically the dry lubed if not visible will be plenty strong. I use at least a #8 for typical furniture and #10 for HD furniture applications that may carry some excess weight like table leg bracing.

Typically flat head works well with counter sunk holes, if exposed and on top of the flat surface a pan head works out well.

For about 25 years I have been using these dry lubed screws on all applications for indoor use regardless of wood. I built an oak desk about

22 years ago and have relocated it 3 times. To get through the doors it has to be partially disassembled, no corrosion has ever been evident when combining steel screws and oak. That said however if you use "SOAP" as a lubricant you will eventually have a reaction as soap contains water. Use a wax to lube your screws and you should have no problems.

And needless to say, go with the square drive and or combo head and buy an assortment of square drive bits. I prefer 2" and 6" lengths. I have had better luck with the 2 piece bits rather than the solid one piece bits. IIRC the 2 piece design helps absorb some of the shock when using a power driver and or impact. I have had several 1 piece designs break and typically the 2 piece designs simply wear out.

Additionally I highly recommend getting one of the larger combo packages that McFeeleys offers as once you switch to these screws you never want to use a screw from the borg again. I probably keep 3 or 4 thousand on hand at any given time in sizes from 3/8" through 3" in #4, #6, #8, and #10. I really do not want to use any other kind of screw if I can help it. The assortments offer a pretty good value and you get a pretty good sampling of common sizes. I store these screws in 9 steel parts bin drawers. Screws in larger quantities become heavy of a container and these steel drawers allow dividers to separate different length screws.

Reply to
Leon

There was a very good article in either Popular Woodworking or Fine Woodworking last month on just this topic. I am not near my magazines right now so I can't say which. Maybe another reader can.

Joe.... Website:

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Blog:
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When I have a need for metal screws I use plated deck screws for indoors and outdoors works. The source or procurement for me is at Home Hardware where I buy them by the pound. I also use SS screws for all boat work.

Reply to
Denis M

Thank you! I ordered an assortment (#8 black oxide) last night. I get 100 each of 3/4" through 2-1/2".

They state on their web page that the coated screws have the same strength as the uncoated. I think I am use to the black oxide from using dry wall screws for so long so I went with those.

Reply to
Garage_Woodworks

Yeah, strength changes when you change types of material to make the screw. The black oxide will be more consistent in color, the dry lube can vary from gun metal grey to slightly brown. You be fine with those.

Reply to
Leon

There is an article by Glen Huey in the Summer 2008 issue of Woodworking Magazine...

John

Reply to
John Grossbohlin

Man, I love that tip. Had never thought of it before, but it just makes so much sense. I'm building something in cedar right now, and will be using brass screws, but was going to be careful and take tons of time with them. Now with your idea I can pre-set them with steel. Thanks!

Tanus

Reply to
Tanus

Brass is very weak.

Bronze is stronger and will look better over time, especially for exterior work.

A little more costly, but not that much, IMHO.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Forget presetting. I really like Stainless Steel in cedar. This guy is local to me:

After seeing him use hundreds of thousands of screws, I'm convinced.

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Reply to
B A R R Y

I'm with you.

Unless it is decorative, where brass/bronxe are required, I use coarse thread, self tapping, S/S for all projects.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

That deserves a cheer! ;)

R
Reply to
RicodJour

That's one of those weird things - bronze is copper and tin, brass is copper and zinc. Zinc is harder than tin, but bronze is harder than brass.

What's even more interesting is the theory about why there was a transition from the Bronze to the Iron Age. I had always thought that iron was a tougher material for making implements, but it seems that the transition was due to problems with trade making it tough to get the requisite base metals to make bronze together in the same place. Kind of weird to think that interrupted trade routes set us back in an area of such primary importance.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

As a neophyte, what makes the Home Depot Deck Screws so bad relative to McFeely's?

- Less strong/more brittle?

- Poorer coating for corrosion resistance? (I am comparing here to other coated screws not to the gold standard of SS)

- Poorer head design? (Phillips vs. Square Drive)

- Worse thread design?

- All of the above?

I imagine many will say all-of-the-above but since I have (mistakenly) invested already in a full range of HD deck screws in multiple sizes and colors, I would like to understand the limitations better before I chuck them or relegate them to just temporary uses.

Thanks

Reply to
blueman

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