As such, I put my existing LV scrapers/jointer/variable burnisher to work and knocked down the rough spots with thumb power. They worked phenomenally well, and I wore my best "I told you so" look for those that had been giving me disparaging looks while I took 15 minutes to get them all honed and hooked properly.
A couple of observations. The first rule of scraping is to tune your scrapers. The second rule of scraping is TO TUNE YOUR SCRAPERS!! Once you get them sharp, things go much easier. I started by looking for areas of obvious tear out, and went at them with a fairly thin scraper so I could really localize my efforts without killing myself keeping the blade flexed. (Note: While the jointer/burnisher from Veritas worked excellently, I abandoned their scraper holder for this task, as it didn't allow me enough control for really localizing my work - which I wanted to do to avoid too much flattening out of the wavy plane marks.) Once the deeper divots were removed, I'd take a couple of longer, wider passes to sort of even out the crater, so to speak. You've got to play with the angle of attack as well as the direction of scraping to really get a clean cut, and you can't be timid about it. I try to really get the scraper moving and then ease it down into and then out of the workpiece. The learning curve was steep for me, thank god!
Once I'd gone over all of the obvious dents, dings and gouges, I moved along to the noticeably rough areas of raised grain. These I attacked with a somewhat thicker scraper, using a few longer, harder passes. When using a fresh edge, it cut like a dream, and the was really all it took. After that, I took a break.
Upon return, I took some 220 and lightly went over the whole thing. This revealed other, less noticeable rough spots, which I handled the same way as above. Again, be careful of the grain. With knot holes I generally found the working from the center out was the best, but there were exceptions. You'll probably get it *close* to perfect a couple of times, only to ruin it with just *one more scrape". DAMHIKT.
After the surface was smoothed, we finished it off with some 220, and then oiled it. It looks EXCELLENT! What a beautiful piece of wood. I swear if I fondled LOML the same as that piece of cherry I'd get breakfast in bed every morning.
IMPORTANT PART: Scrapers have 8 edges, all of which_can_be used. I found that I prefer to slightly round off the corners, as the long edges are bowed anyays, and with with the shorter ones (which I really don't use) you don't want to snag the corner and create a groove. What I do is put a piece of tape on each side, and mark the hook angle setting I used on the variable burnisher. I found that if I went over 6 or 7 degrees it just grabbed too much, so all were done from 2 to 5 degrees. I also marked each of the long edges 1 through 4. This worked excellently for me, as I didn't have to fumble around trying to find a sharp edge each time. I'd just start at 1, and when it got dull I'd flip it to 2 and so on. What I'lll probably do is get a dozen or so different scrapers, number each edge with an etcher, and also mark the hook angle I'm keeping it at. When I really get organized, I'll label each thickness as well. Then I can just mark in my journal that the "0.6 mil 4 deg hook scraper took out knot marks like a champ on Mrs. Havisham's cherry mantel". When I get truly insane, I'll even mark the hardness of the scraper on there.
How satisfying to see that first coat of finish bring life to that mantel. <sigh> I believe I've found my calling....
JP ************************************* .6m 4deg Rc50