I also have the LV system with a Hitachi M12V mounted under it. Built a
frame out of old oak flooring for the top to rest on & tip up for
access. Dust collection out the back is acceptable with the LV magnetic
hood & a small shop vac. Just vac below the frame at end of day for
drop thru. Magnetic feather boards from TS work on this top & with
cross slide you don't have to worry about fence parallel to Tslot.
Table is sure strong & flat. Router mounting is good for quick removal,
but you must make sure it is tightened back in properly or you get
"random height adjustment." DAMHKT.
Sure I'd like table bigger but it's been fine for most tasks. Only
modification needed has been adding a table on top to pick up depth for
horizontal panel raising bit which won't retract far enough into the
router with the Hitachi "bushing ears" on. That concept of a covering
table butting the fence could probably be used to extend size of the
small steel table when needed.
Has anyone used the "bit-jack" attachment for height adjustment? Looks
interesting and reasonable in price.
A whole 3/16"!!! ? :) FWIW, I've bent steel that thick -by accident-
at work :). OTOH, I've not known Veritas to make a shoddy prduct, so
I'm sure it's all right- just sounded hilarious to me (ever lifted up
a 24' length of 3/16" thick steel? It's about as sturdy as a spagetti
At any rate, for the OP- Consider making your own, with a fold-up top.
Make two "legs" out of 3/4" ply that are connected to the wall studs
with piano hinges, and a fold-down top that secures to the wall when
not in use. You'll not only save space and money, but you'll still
have most of the benefits of a full-size router table as well. That'd
be my vote anyhow.
If you have 24' lengths of steel at work, then I bet you work with tools and
machines that could easily bend my table saw in half. :-)
Many people make their tops out of two layers of 3/4" MDF. I'd like to see
how much flex you have in a 24' long piece of MDF. :-) :-)
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