I offered a suggestion, Clare Snyder questioned me, I denigrated no ones ideas by making a suggestion.
I offered a suggestion, Clare Snyder questioned me, I denigrated no ones ideas by making a suggestion.
As easy and cheap as it is to have the right tool there REALLY is no excuse to bodge things. And the right tool will be usefull for MANY other jobs as well.
Generally speaking, Snyders like havingthe right tools on hand.
Dick, I'd suggest (as in strongly recommend) getting the 1/4" bit holder instead - lets you use ANY 1/4 hex type bit in the future - and if you damage your T10 bit you only need to replace the bit - not the whole (much more expensive) 1/4 inch square drive assembly.
It's up to you, but this is experience talking (and yes, I'm a bit of a tool Junkie) Clare Snyder Waterloo Ontario
I have torx that fit a 3/8s drive so that would be my right tool.
.. and he might already have it - hiding right in plain sight - if he has a ~ 150 piece socket set < who doesn't > John T.
Good point. .. and you might need an assortment of bits, to go with that nice new bit holder ... :-)
John T.
No arguement there - and you can use your speed handle if you have one - without a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer.
And if he DOESN'T, mabee he should be watching forwhen they come up on sale - - - -
and for Lee Valley stuff that is a GOOD price. Up here when Canadian Tire has a sale you can beat that price - but not by a lot.
Actually I probably would not be that patient, bust the heads off the screws and get out the pry bar, use a hammer the break off what is left and finally the sink what is left with same hammer. But that is not what the OP asked.
Dick Snyder wrote in news:BIidnZiv2t6ebxbGnZ2dnUU7-d snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
In some cases, you can hammer a bit into a screw head to get better grip. The stainless will deform just a bit and you should be able to back the screw out slowly.
Bits are consumables, so don't be afraid to buy 25 or 100 of them at one time. They'll stay good forever in a drawer assuming you don't have moisture issues.
Bit holders are also consumables. They have a magnet or retaining wire (PITRE) which helps a lot.
Puckdropper
Often with stuck screws smacking the screw driver with a hammer will loosen the screw enough to torque it out. Impact drill/driver also work well to ease out screws. Also, combining methods with a $15 impact screwdriver:
Just about always works.
I have a deck I built 25 years ago using the same deck screws you did. Wolmanized lumber shrinks around the screw when it dry's out, making it next to impossible to get the screws out without extraordinary measures.
You might try tightening them a little before trying to back them out... That approach has solved a lot of removal problems for me in the past. On the other hand, it might just break the head off which leads to another possible solution!
Another option is to break all the heads off, pry the board off and then back out the screws by chucking them in a drill. That has worked for me too. Alternatively, break the heads off, pry the board off, and bend the remaining screw over... some may snap off some my not. If you are replacing the deck boards the remains of the screws will be hidden.
I think that trying to chuck 200 "screw remains" in a drill would be a real pain. Close, open, close, open, over and over again. I think cutting them flush with any one of various tools would be quicker/easier.
On Tuesday, September 4, 2018 at 9:32:26 PM UTC-4, John Grossbohlin wrote: option is to break all the heads off, pry the board off and then
No matter what, this job is going to be tedious... If he wants complete removal the drill is the way to go. Otherwise bend them over or as you suggest cut them off...
I've run into situations where replacing the framing was the best option as removing the old decking and fasteners was not working out well at all and my time was worth far more than the cost of the new materials.
Regardless of the head or the condition of the head I find that an impact driver typically removes a stuck screw quick.
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