Removing stainless steel trim head screws

Sep 02, 2018 35 Replies

Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip?



TIA.



Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA



Wow, I just looked at the price of a ratchet brace and was surprised. Mine is about 50 years old and rarely used.

I do have a thought. How about a T handle used to hod a tap? If you give the screw a turn or so, will that loosed it enough to come out with the power drill and not break?

Along the same lines (more or less), how about an adjustable torque impact driver? I have a little Bosch 12v that really does a nice job removing and setting screws. You can adjust the force applied (on or off) and I find that little bit of vibration - just enough to rock its world but not enough to torque it off - usually does the trick.

My first thought would be a stripped screw extractor. They work pretty well and you can get fairly fast at it.

Are you removing/replacing the decking boards? If so, why not cut the screws off underneath the decking? A sawzall with a bi-metal blade would make quick work of it.

Get a T-10 bit with a standard 1/4" base. Or shim the one you have.

A couple of options come to mind:

Lowes has in stock for pickup today (in the several stores nearest Southborough, MA) a 1/4" drive T-10 torx socket item 338200 model

85998 for $1.98. It's Kobalt brand, have no idea how well it will hold up, but you should be able to use it with your socket set more conveniently than a hex bit.

Lee Valley has for $11.50 an adapter that holds 1/4" hex bits in a _4_ point brace, which if you don't have one are available for cheap on Amazon ($12-30 range for Chinese).

Break the screws loose by hand with a ratchet & 1/4" socket, then use the drill/magnetic nut driver/T-10 to remove.

Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace

1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the slack.

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what's wrong with a bit-holder socket? the magnetic ones are nice and available pretty cheap - but the ones with a spring work just as well and are even cheaper.

Nothing but if you have not got one and you have other tools, so I was just suggesting ideas.

I.ve found using the right tool for the job is generally a LOT simpler

A wise man once said to me "If you are working too hard, you are probably using the wrong tool."

Well, for a deck you'd be comfortable standing on, I'd get some iron pipe and fit a T handle to one end, and weld a T-10 shank, or the shank of a screwdriver that accepts T-10 bits, to the other end. If you don't have welders, epoxy and wood can make a suitable handle.

Yeah, it's a bit of work, but hunched over at floor level is not my idea of quality time...

Okay be as you will be, but right may not be what someone has.

But right is something that one can often get.

The OP has indicated a willingness to purchase/borrow the right tool, so he's certainly not limited to using only what he has.

This is a good idea. I am replacing the deck boards but am unable to cut off anything below. If I can get t-10 with a standards base, I would be able to use my stanard socket wrench which will get the job done quickly.

Thanks.

Dick

Thanks to all who replied. This rec is always so helpful. After reading all replies, my plan is to get a T-10 bit with a standard 1/4" base which will work with my socket set. Loosening the screws will go quickly then. Once I back them out a couple of turns I can remove them without any breakage.

Thanks again all!

Dick Snyder

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