This is correct. It is called a shoe. Sometimes there is one on both
ends of the cutter bar. The one near the pittman arm is the inside
shoe and the other is the outside or land shoe.
To early farmers, any dividing of a field was "laying off a land."
Laying off a smaller tract was done for a couple of reasons. At the
rate of a few acres per day, it might me all a farmer could till
before the planting or growing season passed. And, secondly, some
progress could be seen in plowing a smaller tract; the psychological
benefit of seeing an end to a task.
--Andy Asberry recommends NewsGuy--
I'll go ahead and partly answer #711: you are correct, it's the
top of the frame of a world globe. I saw three other globes this week and
all of them had degrees on both sides of the frame; only the globe in the
photo had degrees on one side and different markings on the other. I'll
give the answer to why it has the number 6000 on it in a couple days if no
one gets it.
|> R.H. wrote:|> 711 looks a lot like the top of that metal semicircle that holds an|> ordinary world globe, but 6000 what? It should be 90 degrees, so|> that's probably not it.
| I'll go ahead and partly answer #711: you are correct, it's the
| top of the frame of a world globe. I saw three other globes this week and
| all of them had degrees on both sides of the frame; only the globe in the
| photo had degrees on one side and different markings on the other. I'll
| give the answer to why it has the number 6000 on it in a couple days if no
| one gets it.
Could it be the measurement in mils? There're 6400 mils in a circle.
What are the other gradients shown? ____________________________Gerard S.
Well ... a quarter of the circumference of the world is about
6250 miles, and the scale stops short of the pole, so I would guess that
that is the distance from the equator -- or if the globe is one of those
designed to be free of an axis, it allows you to measure the
great-circle distance between two points which are less than a quarter
of the circumference apart -- or by adding the value to the South of the
equator, you could cover a distance of nearly 12000 miles great circle
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Using this and the hint that it's used outdoors at a farm or ranch,
could this tool be used for installing a barbed wire fence? I'm not
sure what the ends would be used for, but the notches on the inside
could be used to hold the wire in place with the curve in the tool
wrapping around the fencepost. While the tool holds the wire in place,
you can secure the wire to the post.
I have no idea how old this tool is, there isn't a single letter or number
on it that I can see. I'm planning to use the links below on the answer
page, the first is a collage of about a hundred different types of barbed
This next link gives a few details on some specific types:
I'm thinking that with so many different kinds of barbed wire there must
also be quite a few different and unusual tools for working with them, so
I'll probably go with the barbed wire answer for now until I find evidence
that it's something else. I've sent a couple emails to some barbed wire
museums, maybe one of them will recognize it.
I looked again at what was marked on the other similar tool and it read
"barbed wire wrapping tool", I'm guessing that it means wrapping it in coils
or on spools.
The answer for number 712: carriage driver's tool, the part on the upper
left is a hoof pick and the hex is probably for adjusting a carbide lamp,
not sure about the other two parts.
Yep, and making sure that the clamp stayed attached to the wire was a
trick. Always had to get the wire hauled a bit tighter than needed because
you knew you'd lose some tension between the stretcher and the post onto
which you were tying the wire.
Those were even more fun with woven wire fences like hog wire. I made a
clamp out of a couple of 1 x 4's to get reasonably even tension among all
of the strands.
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
With woven wire I'd pull and fasten the top strand first, then work my
way down, keeping the strands lined up vertically where I stapled them.
That required me to lug a minimum of tools. Then I'd restore tension
to all strands by walking along and using two pairs of pliers to tighten
Tightening was a leisurely activity. It left a fence so straight that I
could I could see from a distance if everything was okay. The ripples
allowed stretching if a limb fell on the fence, and the ripples could
easily be retightened.
Mark & Juanita wrote:
> Yep, and making sure that the clamp stayed attached to the wire was a
> trick. Always had to get the wire hauled a bit tighter than needed
>> you knew you'd lose some tension between the stretcher and the
> which you were tying the wire.
> Those were even more fun with woven wire fences like hog wire.
Ah yes, hog wire, I still remember helping my dad string it.
We had a big old brood sow that could give a fence a good test.
The metal intermediate posts weren't to bad; but, the corners and
those locust post.
Ever try to drive a staple into a locust post?
Might as well try driving them into steel.
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