Re: OT: Miter box

[krw]

Yes, HF == Harbor Freight

Something like this but I bought mine fifteenish years ago.

[DerbyDad03]

I prefer mine...

I kept my old 10" Delta non-slider for cutting metal, PT wood, branches, and anything else I don't want to put under the Bosch.

Both guards are intact, although the Delta's is basically opaque from all the metal it's cut. Sparks and plastic don't play well together.

[Leon]

I thought you had the articulating Bosch. Some one on here indicated that dust collection on the Bosch was hideous.

[krw]

Hardly a $100 tool. I have a Bosch 5312 (no longer sold) but it was a bit more than $100 too.

Sounds, well, loud.

[krw]

Nope, a Bosch Glider (above). I'm dumping it soon because it takes too much (front to back) space.

[DerbyDad03]

That may have been me. I don't recall that I said that it was "hideous" but I do recall posting a link to the mod that I employed to improve it.

Don refers to the stock dust collection as "not overly effective". Is "overly effective" actually a good thing? Somehow it sounds like something you *wouldn't* want a thing to be. Like using a shotgun to kill a spider. Effective, sure, but maybe just a bit too much. ;-)

[Puckdropper]

Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news: [e-mail]:

I saw a saying here a long time ago. There are many 10-fingered woodworkers who use their table saw without a guard. There are also, however, NO 9-fingered woodworkers who use their table saw without a guard.

I have to admit, I'm one of those 10-fingered guys... The guard for my saw was so big and clumsy I could only use it if cutting plywood in half or something giant like that. For the average cut where I'm taking 1/2" off the remaining 3/8" offcut would get caught under the guard.

Puckdropper

[J. Clarke]

That's an issue with the design of guards. They shouldn't just flop down on the workpiece--that should be an option but there should be a way to _easily_ lock them at a height that allows clearance.

[krw]

How many of those (either group) do dados?

I don't either, mainly because it's a PITA to mount. The riving knife isn't any better (poorly implemented afterthought).

[Leon]

I do not use a gurard on my TS. Does 9.5 Fingers count? But then again, SawStop.

[krw]

But your wiener has a chunk out of it.

[Puckdropper]

[e-mail] wrote in news: [e-mail]:

That's how you know it's done. It's split on the end and stuff is coming out.

Puckdropper

[Puckdropper]

[e-mail] wrote in news: [e-mail]:

My guess is it's probably the same in both groups. It's just the guard-users do it for every cut they can, the guard-don't-users just don't.

Every time I go to Ikea, I'm impressed by something. Some item I'm looking at is well thought out, cheap, and very functional.

I wish they would do something like that for table saw guards. They've already got the cheap part, it's just the other two that are missing.

Puckdropper

[Michael Trew]

I feel the same way, until I have to figure out how to assemble that IKEA item, then I change my mind..

[krw]

I'm most impressed by their packaging. Designing stuff to perfectly fit into a box takes genius. FOr termite barf, their stuff is OK but their hardware is bad. Really bad. I can't imagine an Ikea kitchen lasting a year, much less 20.

It doesn't seem that it would be all that hard, starting from scratch. I guess they make them just to satisfy their lawyers.

[Michael Trew]

When I worked for a contractor, we had to assemble an IKEA kitchen.. keep in mind, it was nearly a 100 year old house, and nothing was plumb. It was absolute hell.. he said "IKEA kitchen.. NEVER AGAIN, unless it's a new construction home. I absolutely loathe assembling their furniture.

[DerbyDad03]

Wouldn't that same problem exist with *any* kitchen install in a 100 YO house?

I'm pretty sure that all cabinets, custom built or stock from any company, are (should be) square and plumb. Proper measurements, shims and filler strips are essentials.

BTW...there is no guarantee that "new construction" is plumb either. That's a dangerous assumption to make, unless you built the place yourself (correctly).

[Michael Trew]

True, it should always be plumb, but standard pre-built cabinets are far more forgiving to shim and install in an out of square house, rather than trying to build complex MDF cabinets that interlock and keep them plumb.

The IKEA cabinets would have gone together far easier if the walls were plumb to start with.. IIRC (it's been almost a decade), we had to build some of them "on the wall", as opposed to just zipping in and shimming pre-built cabinets -- and none of the holes were coming close to lining up.

[krw]

I'd give a 100yo house a better chance at being plumb and square.

[DerbyDad03]

How many 100 YO houses have you worked in?

Maybe when it was first built it was "built better". (I assume that is what you are implying) However, 100 years later and a lot of that care has been overtaken by nature.

I've worked in many older homes with full sized hardwood timbers and amazing craftsmanship. Still, the ravages of nature and the laws of gravity have had a lot of time to do their thing.