Re: OT: Miter box

Sep 21, 2021 Last reply: 4 years ago 42 Replies


Why are miter boxes so short? I have to cut 45 degree angles for the


> baseboards at my son's house. They are 6.5" tall, but even if they were
> only 4 inches, most miter boxes would be too short. My miter *saw*
> would cut 4" ones, but I'm going to have to hand cut them, and to do so
> I had to make my own extra tall miter box. By now the glue is dry. It took
> me a couple of hours to figure it out and build it from wood than I already
> had at home. Here's my crazy contraption.
>
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It's not done. There's still some hand sawing left to finish it, but then I have
> to cut the baseboards by hand. Those of you who do woodworking might
> find this amusing.
>
> --Bryan
>
> "If you don?t like tamales, then there must be something wrong with you."
> --
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I don't do a lot of woodworking, but I have to do some for work in one of my homes. This is a good topic for rec.woodworking


I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those really get in the way).


Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw, considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop trim; this time because the blade won't reach.


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When I was a kid we didn't have these fancy store-bought miter boxes. You took three boards, nailed/screwed/glued them together in a "u" shape, and very carefully laid out the angle, then very carefully sawed it with a back saw. And then you had a miter box until you wore out the slots and had to make a new one.

I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air, a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

I'll keep mine intact.

I wouldn't use a miter saw on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air. ;-)

...and on the ground.

Trust me, the miter saw stays on the ground.. haha

Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;)

If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

It is not a "box", but mine is more the style of this one (in it's flexability):

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Common sense certainly comes into play when using any power tool, but many people, with a lot of common sense, have been injured on the job site.

Mistakes happen, distractions happen, wandering minds happen.

If it keeps getting gaumed/gummed up, I have to question what you are cutting.

BTW...when a safety device is involved, I lean towards "repair" vs. "removal".

That's why they make the blade tip on a table saw!!! 14 inch high baseboadrs?? NO PROBLEM!!!! As long as they aren't over about 2 inches thick - - - Cut to the "outside" length plus a predetermined amount, install the fence so with the end on the fence the blade cuts EXACTLY where you want it and start cutting. As long as you measure and cut to the proper length the miters will be exactly the right length and angle EVERY TIME.

Search around see if you can find a Delta Buck Saw, hard to find but better than SCMS.

Well, common sense is not always with us when we are working near shiny spinning sharp things. Unless you are GOD or a Super Hero you are capable of making a mistake regardless of how much training or how smart you think you are.

I will say the number reason that most woodworkers have accidents on their table saws is because they did not have a guard on their saws. Unfortunately 99.999999999999999% of table saw guards hindered rather than helped. Some cuts are impossible to make with a guard mounted. And that brings us to the solution to mistakes, SawStop.

I would have spent the $100 on a HF SMCS. I've had one for years, not that gets much use these days. It's purpose is now outside carpentry. It works and I don't care if it gets wet.

I have one of those, too. My outlaws bought it for me about 50 years ago. It's a nice tool but it isn't a Kapex.

The guard was halfway broken when I bought the used saw, and never worked correctly. I'm pretty sure my neighbor who sold it to me bought it as part of a lot in an auction. No clue what the PO's did to it.

Trust me, I'm not advocating to pull off all stops/safeties; I'm not one of those people (unless it comes to the doggone safety stop handle on power mowers).

My table saw is downright ancient, I'm pretty sure it's a pre-war model, no safeties.

What is that, harbor freight saw?

I think I just found one on Facebook Marketplace for $40.. thanks, might go pick that up!

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