Re: Central Machinery quality? Featured

Are you talking about 15 YO muffin tins or modern day muffin tins?

Compounds have probably improved.

All aluminum pots were quite the rage for a while, due to how quickly and evenly they heated up. Now they still use aluminum as the core, but they clad it in safer materials, materials that don't react with food.

Non-stick cookware went from Teflon to ceramic. That will probably change over time too.

Quite a bit, actually. They also come with a flexible spatula type tip (maybe 3/4" wide). SWMBO also has some silicone pastry brushes which would work fine, especially for glue ups of thicker stock. Haven't priced them out but don't imagine there would be a great difference in price.

Well since she had the bad luck she has not bought any more hoping that it got better.

Maybe but they are still silicone unlike the examples you mentioned below.

On the other hand, it's possible that one might confuse a sticky residue from the food with the breakdown of the silicone. Like I said, I've not tried any silicone bakeware, so this may not be what you and the missus have experienced. I can say that I have experienced sticky residue on metal cookware over time.

From:

and from:

You?ve baked a delicious cake in your silicone cake pan, you?ve popped the cake onto the cooling rack, and you?ve washed the cake tin? yet it still doesn?t feel clean. Why? Silicone is designed to be non-stick, which makes it an excellent choice for baking cakes and muffins, but it?s these non-stick properties that make cleaning silicone a bit tricky. The bakeware is non-stick because it doesn?t absorb any oils or grease ? it leaves them on the surface, which helps foods to simply lift out of the pan with the slickness of the oil. The oils cling to the silicone, which means that even after washing, a small amount of grease may remain, which causes a tacky, almost sticky feel."

Both sites offer tips on the proper cleaning of silicone bakeware.

Not many here. They didn't have any. Like others here, I bought bunches anytime they were on sale. I even gave some away to people who needed them more, a year or so ago. I don't really know who they went to because my wife's church was collecting PPE for groups unknown.

I just picked up a couple computer mice that had been in a drawer for a few years. The "rubber" over-mold is about as gooey as the gum under a third-rate diner table.

I bought my wife a set of cookware that has a copper core stainless cookware. They were $$$$ but she loves them. We've had time for over ten years now, and they look and work like new. No more cookware fads for her.

If you call NOW, you can get a SECOND set for only the cost of shipping and handling.

Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

I've got those things for cooking. It's great for applying butter as you cook shrimp on the grill. (The guy who invented the reverse sear? He deserves the Nobel Prize.)

I'd have thought they'd be too flexible for controlling the amount of glue you put in a project.

Puckdropper

Personally you couldn't give me one of those stands. If you're a woodworker, particularly a hobbyist with limited space, why not build your own?

They start off wrong because they have no storage, so waste whatever space they use. Build a wood cabinet for your stationary tools, fit it with drawers/shelves and you are good to go, and you have more space to store all that stuff...

Our 60-year-old+ copper bottomed Revere cookware is still plugging along great. Look for them at flea markets, goodwill/SA, and antique stores. Found the steamer and double boiler top pans at a flea market just a couple years ago.

Same, except I don't clean mine out. I leave it packed with glue, so when it dries, it comes off easily and cleanly in one little glob.

It's OK to clean it but small amounts left between the bristles is hard to clean, and it defeats the purpose of the silicone brush. Might as well use a flux or chip brush if your gonna clean it.

Have you priced lumber lately?

Just went to HD and 2x4x8 is almost $7. Oak, Maple and cherry around $20 a board foot, walnut $32/ft.

Several years ago I bought an Oak board for a door I was making and it cost $4.something a foot. The cashier advised me the price was per foot, not for the whole board, which was 14 ft long. I knew that but apparently lots of people thought the price marked was per board, not per foot...

Wonder how they like it now?

The two giant Oak tree's in my front yard are starting to look delicious...

With the USSA $30+ TRILLION in dept, and a communist administration, you best stock up on commodities, cause cash is soon to be worthless....

Don't worry about it, Slow Jo says he is going to end child poverty just like Lyndon Johnson "War On Poverty" did in the 50 years ago. Remember how successful that democrat policy was?

Not be argumentative but the materials to build one, coupled with the time to make it is probably going to cost me more than the HF model.

There is that! ;~) Although I lay a piece of plywood on top of the lower braces/supports.

No, the silicone bakeware was put up clean and developed this deteriorating sticky goo sitting in the dark of the cabinet. Trying to clean that goo off damaged the surface.

I have a similar situation on a small space heater and Logitech radio in my garage.

Both have silicone coated control knobs and over time the surface has deteriorated and become sticky. Obviously not the same exact product but both and the bake ware exhibited the same deterioration in different environments.

The sticky stuff was not a build up.

The below explanations do not address the material breaking down over time, as the knobs on my space heater and radio exhibited.

This is exactly what I am talking about. Ambient room temperature being the relative constant and the silicone breaks down on its own. Oddly, the silicone brush and small silicone container have not exhibited this condition.

Well there are those made for cooking and for applying glue. My wife has the cooking ones for applying sauces on the grill. The fingers are longer.

I try to clean mine out, relative effortless under running water. But some times I forget and have to remove the excess. BUT the glue needs to dry for several days down here in humid Texas. So it is a bit more troublesome to clean the next day. And over time 10 + years removing the dried glue has resulted in a few missing fingers.

I clean the silicone thoroughly, about 10 ~15 seconds. The flux brushes rust over night, from the glue or water used to clean the glue out. And then I got flakes of rust and loose hairs. I used the flux brushes for many many years, longer than the silicone brushes. When the silicone come out I found that they clean easier before the glue dries and the cleaning when still uncured/wet was faster than removing the dried glue. Removing the dried glue is interesting to get a perfect reverse mold but I would rather clean when wet vs dry. And cleaning wet does not result in the occasional finger breaking off with the dried glue.

Yes, I have pretty much been steady with jobs since last summer. There was a big lull after the Harvey floods. I was not going to build at insurance rates.

I do not buy hardwoods from HD, Lowes, or the like. But yes some lumber has increased in price drastically. I have seen a price increase in hardwood veneered plywoods, but not a great increase. I have not seen a price increase with 1/2" Baltic birch plywood, 5x5. Still just $22.95. I have not seen a price increase with solid red oak, but white oak is almost double red oak prices. White oak used to be about 25% more expensive than red oak.

So red oak S4S 1 x 8 is about $3.65 per LF now. White Oak S4S 1 x 10, 25% wider than the

Apples to apples, the red and white oak use to only differ about $1. per LF in 1x8 a few years ago. About double that difference now.

For which all you need is a wooden base with castors. Bolt the steel stand to the base, slap some 1/4" plywood on three sides of the steel stand and you have a storage compartment.

I've repurposed several stands in a similar fashion.