Am building a chest of drawers as follows:
Drawer sides and backs are 1/2 hard maple.
Drawer fronts are 3/4 hard maple.
Drawer bottoms are 1/4 birch ply.
Drawers are to be assembled using half blind dovetails front and back
and epoxy. (Explanation later)
Drawer fronts have BLO & wax.
All drawer outside surfaces sealed with 2 coats of 2# shellac.
All drawer inside surfaces sealed with 3 coats of 2# shellac.
Each coat is lightly sanded with 320 grit.
Since the drawers are not assembled yet, it is straight forward flat
Since the tails and pins of the dovetails have some shellac on them as
a result of my sloppy application of shellac, Titebond II can't be
used for ass'y, thus the epoxy which will seal around the shellac
coated pins and tails and cure.
Now the question.
IF you want to build drawers with the interior surfaces sealed and
sanded smooth as a baby's rear end, what would you do differently from
Agreed, finishing drawer interiors after assembly is just about impossible
to do well.
My 4 cents:
Tape off the pins (blue painters tape).
Use a thinner cut of shellac (I don't like much build in that application
Take it a little slower as to not slosh finish past the boundries.
Try to leave as bit of raw plywood wood on the perimeter of the botton as a
glue surface (yes, when using ply I glue the bottoms).
Have built a plywood ramp, approx 2'x3' and a 4" rise
on one end.
Have primed everything with:
What I find interesting that it is oil based and still
available here in SoCal.
If this were 30 years ago, I'd get some gray oil
based porch and floor enamel and give it a finish
coat, but that was then and this is now.
What is a good porch and floor paint today.
This will be exposed to SoCal sun year around.
Thanks for the input.
Don't know if you can get it in California but I like Glidden's porch &
Floor polyurethane paint. It wears better than anything else I know of,
standard colors are grey & white. In Florida, Home Depot carries it.
On Thursday, August 21, 2014 11:25:00 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
l sun year around.
I haven't had reason to use a porch paint, but, having seen this question b
efore, I've always wondered why the gray deck paint, that is put on barge a
nd boat decks, shouldn't be about the best. The gray "Battleship" paint u
sed by the armed forces and other marine related services. As a deckhand,
between semesters of school, we applied that Battleship gray paint on all
exposed flooring type surfaces, on the dredge. It was/is non-slip, also.
Maybe it's best only for those metal surfaces, though.
On Friday, August 22, 2014 8:23:32 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
That's the stuff, right there. Easy to apply, >>REALLY<< easy to renew. A
pply one coat as primer after your ramp has dried out for a couple of weeks
. Then when dry, add a thick coat and broadcast some dry play sand in it.
Then when that is dry, apply top coat.
Is this stuff good for fascia boards above the soffit?
Can it be used alone or does it need a top coat of something else?
A few spots (3-4?) along my fascia are in need of touch up. Worn areas
are all less than 12" wide and 6-7" long. Last year they started to
swell a little towards the bottom so I figure they better get a coat
of something or they'll be needing replacement soon.
Most likely if your soffit is the Masonite type material and has begun
to swell water is probably getting to it from the top inside and or
through a seam along the fascia. Painting will most likely be a bandaid
covering an underlying problem. I constantly fought that problem with
out old home, it is a real PIA.
My mother had Masonite crap on her house (built in the early '70s) in
central Illinois. I had cedar in Vermont but have had Hardi on both
of my houses down here. Some of it has to be replaced on this house.
It must be a really crappy installation job because the hose is only
seven years old.
You got my interest, so decided to check it out.
Here in SoCal, a quart of material is $44 including
A quart will provide enough for two (2) coats which
At this point have less than $25 invested in the project.
Must as I'm interested, just can't justify a $44 additional
cost to get a painted ramp.
Maybe I'll just sit on the project for a while.
Over the years, have used that technique for several things including
galvanizing a boat anchor, anodizing a 15 ft whisker pole, glass bead
blasting a frozen gear pump, and machine shop work.
Sometimes a 12 pack, most times not, but that was then and this is
These days not a workable option.
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