RE: A Question

Am building a chest of drawers as follows:

Drawer sides and backs are 1/2 hard maple. Drawer fronts are 3/4 hard maple. Drawer bottoms are 1/4 birch ply.

Drawers are to be assembled using half blind dovetails front and back and epoxy. (Explanation later)

Drawer fronts have BLO & wax.

All drawer outside surfaces sealed with 2 coats of 2# shellac.

All drawer inside surfaces sealed with 3 coats of 2# shellac.

Each coat is lightly sanded with 320 grit.

Since the drawers are not assembled yet, it is straight forward flat surface sanding.

Since the tails and pins of the dovetails have some shellac on them as a result of my sloppy application of shellac, Titebond II can't be used for ass'y, thus the epoxy which will seal around the shellac coated pins and tails and cure.

Now the question.

IF you want to build drawers with the interior surfaces sealed and sanded smooth as a baby's rear end, what would you do differently from the above?

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett
Loading thread data ...

Agreed, finishing drawer interiors after assembly is just about impossible to do well.

My 4 cents:

Tape off the pins (blue painters tape).

Use a thinner cut of shellac (I don't like much build in that application anyway)

Take it a little slower as to not slosh finish past the boundries.

Try to leave as bit of raw plywood wood on the perimeter of the botton as a glue surface (yes, when using ply I glue the bottoms).

-Steve

Reply to
C & S

Have built a plywood ramp, approx 2'x3' and a 4" rise on one end.

Have primed everything with:

formatting link

What I find interesting that it is oil based and still available here in SoCal.

If this were 30 years ago, I'd get some gray oil based porch and floor enamel and give it a finish coat, but that was then and this is now.

What is a good porch and floor paint today.

This will be exposed to SoCal sun year around.

Thanks for the input.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Don't know if you can get it in California but I like Glidden's porch & Floor polyurethane paint. It wears better than anything else I know of, standard colors are grey & white. In Florida, Home Depot carries it.

Reply to
dadiOH

l sun year around.

I haven't had reason to use a porch paint, but, having seen this question b efore, I've always wondered why the gray deck paint, that is put on barge a nd boat decks, shouldn't be about the best. The gray "Battleship" paint u sed by the armed forces and other marine related services. As a deckhand, between semesters of school, we applied that Battleship gray paint on all exposed flooring type surfaces, on the dredge. It was/is non-slip, also. Maybe it's best only for those metal surfaces, though.

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

What I use:

formatting link

Reply to
Swingman

Is this stuff good for fascia boards above the soffit? Can it be used alone or does it need a top coat of something else?

A few spots (3-4?) along my fascia are in need of touch up. Worn areas are all less than 12" wide and 6-7" long. Last year they started to swell a little towards the bottom so I figure they better get a coat of something or they'll be needing replacement soon.

`Casper

Reply to
Casper

And the "haze gray" color will help conceal your porch from gunnery spotters when your house is just barely coming into visual range.

Reply to
Grant Edwards

Most likely if your soffit is the Masonite type material and has begun to swell water is probably getting to it from the top inside and or through a seam along the fascia. Painting will most likely be a bandaid covering an underlying problem. I constantly fought that problem with out old home, it is a real PIA.

Reply to
Leon

My mother had Masonite crap on her house (built in the early '70s) in central Illinois. I had cedar in Vermont but have had Hardi on both of my houses down here. Some of it has to be replaced on this house. It must be a really crappy installation job because the hose is only seven years old.

Reply to
krw
.

That's the stuff, right there. Easy to apply, >>REALLY

Reply to
nailshooter41

-------------------------------------------------- "Richard" wrote:

----------------------------------------------- So how long has the pickup bed liner been installed or are you just suggesting it?

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I think he's suggesting the spray-on liner material. It's great stuff (had it 13 years on my last truck and it was still as good as new) but I don't know how well it would work on wood.

Reply to
krw

Just suggesting at this time, Lew. The paint is loose and flaking off. When I can I'll strip the rest off and spray with bedliner stuff.

It seems to last well on truck beds anyway.

Reply to
Richard

Hi K,

Yes, I was a bit brief, perhaps.

There was one fellow I met sprayed the bottom of a '46 Chris Craft 25 footer with it about 4 years back? The boat is still afloat, if that means anything.

Reply to
Richard

------------------------------------------------------ "Richard" wrote:

----------------------------------------------------- You got my interest, so decided to check it out.

Here in SoCal, a quart of material is $44 including sales tax.

A quart will provide enough for two (2) coats which is recommended.

At this point have less than $25 invested in the project.

Must as I'm interested, just can't justify a $44 additional cost to get a painted ramp.

Maybe I'll just sit on the project for a while.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

:)

Aw, common, Lew. It's a ramp - not a fence!

Reply to
Richard

---------------------------------------------------------------------

"Mike Marlow" wrote:

----------------------------------------------------------------- Over the years, have used that technique for several things including galvanizing a boat anchor, anodizing a 15 ft whisker pole, glass bead blasting a frozen gear pump, and machine shop work.

Sometimes a 12 pack, most times not, but that was then and this is now.

These days not a workable option.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

------------------------------------------------------------

"Mike Marlow" wrote:

------------------------------------------------------------ The limitation is mine, not the potential suppliers.

"Artie" is a nasty bastard.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Just don't shift your backside too much or you are likely to get a splinter.

Reply to
clare

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.