fool proof method for staining maple
sand with 180 grit sand paper wet the wood with a damp rag (raise wood) let dry completely
stain with desired color seal with clear coat sealer
sand with 320 grit sand paper apply 2nd clear coat
sand with 320 grit sand paper apply 3rd clear coat
if you don't raise the grain first, before staining, the maple will look blotchy. by raising the grain, the maple absorbs the stain like an end grain more evenly.
| | | | Eric wrote: | >> Desperately need some solid advice. We purchased some unfinished maple | >> cabinet doors and drawers (fronts only) for our kitchen remodel. | >[quoted text clipped - 3 lines] | >> they | >> came nice and smooth? | >
| >Any stain you put on will raise the grain, wood is not sealed yet. YOu will | >need to sand smooth after your first coat of what ever you put on. | >
| >> 2. Penetrating stains will not penetrate.3 | >
| >Nope to hard and tight of grain | >
| >> 3. Am told that I should not condiiton it. | >
| >I would seal it with shellac(sp) | >
| >> 4. Wiping stain will only penetrate if I weave it sit for close to an | >> hour | >> and then it is gumming whenI remove it. | >
| >Junk don;t use it | >
| >> 5. Last resort: Tried a polyshade and it raises grain as well. | >
| >Poly is junk also. i would stay away. | >
| >> Anyone have any suggestions. This maple is so dense that it does not want | >> to | >> take anything. When I inquired at plant that made the doors they say they | >> have never had this complaint before. | >>
| >> I am getting very frustated. | >
| >What are you trying to do. I like the look of natural maple, why would you | >want to change it? | >
| >eric |