Ok, first off, I hate staining maple. Not because it's difficult but I
generally want maple to look, well like maple. But, I've made some floor
thresholds out of hard maple and now need to match them to the hardwood
floors. I was planning on using dyes to get to the color match. But in
my limited experience with staining, I see maple blotches pretty badly.
What do you all recommend to avoid this? I see wood conditioner and I can
always mix up some shellac as being two options. Opinions?
James "Cubby" Culbertson wrote:
> Ok, first off, I hate staining maple. Not because it's difficult but I
> generally want maple to look, well like maple. But, I've made some
> thresholds out of hard maple and now need to match them to the hardwood
> floors. I was planning on using dyes to get to the color match.
> my limited experience with staining, I see maple blotches pretty badly.
> What do you all recommend to avoid this? I see wood conditioner and
> always mix up some shellac as being two options. Opinions?
> Thanks much.
Had do stain some maple almost out of desperation.
Used WoodCote gel stain.
Wipe on, wipe off.
It worked for me.
Be verrrry careful, my friends ... it's a short, slippery, slope from
staining maple to painting cherry. First thing you know, you'll be using
pine to make furniture and blonding it. Then where will you be? Padded
MDF headboards and plywood decks? Oh, the inhumanity of it all!
I'm not not at the above address.
Relax. I have no intention of painting cherry (or staining it for that
matter!). Oh how that would kill me. I literally have not dye'd or
stained anything in the past 4 years. The only reason for this is to match
the floor. I wanted hardwood and to match the floor but couldn't find the
same wood locally. I promise this is a once off!
James ... just giving your leg a yank. That is something of a running
joke on the wreck. Apparently it has something to do with an episode on
NYW w/ Norm Abrams.
I haven't seen the episode because it is not on public broadcast TV in
I tolerate broadcast TV in my house, but absolutely will NOT pay for a
cable feed. It's a personal thing ... but I liken it to having people
in my living room whom I would not tolerate on my porch doing things
that I don't want done in my alley. <soapbox="off">
I'm not not at the above address.
I was gona say fugetuboutit or maybe send you towards the minwax
ployshades direction because getting Maple to take color well is
really hard. But I think the Gel Stain route could be a winner. It is
basically stain in a ploy gel so you can wipe it and leave it coating
the surface and it will dry to a film finish, unlike and oil stain
that would leave lots of residue if you left it on too thick.
I'd suggest get a shade that is towards the lighter end of what you
want and let it build to the color you need. Then after completly dry,
lots o' coats of poly.
I use TT dyes, sprayed but not wiped for maple. No blotching.
If you do not have a spray rig, you could apply a coat of dewaxed shellac
first and then a tinted coat of shellac. Then you can top coat it with
anything. Cheers, JG
I had success staining maple using water-based stain. Wiped the piece
down with water after sanding then knocked off the fuzz, wiped on the
stain and it looked fine. Nothing fancy, I think it was Minwax from
My first reaction was 'if you can't make it match, make it contrast'.
So if you can't match the floor, and you will be doing very well if Lew's
recommendation works, take another hard wood, and make something that
contrasts well, not strikingly, and go from there. I did a transition
piece in jatoba a couple of weeks back for a floor at my son's place, and
it worked pretty well.
Good luck. Maple was not designed for stain.
I had a similar situation trying to match a maple table I was making to
some fairly light-finished maple cabinets. I used three different colors
of Watco Danish oil (natural, golden oak, and walnut) and experimented
until I got the proportions just right for a perfect match. I had no
problem with splotching at all.
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