Need some advice

The "traditional" method, at least what I see most of around here, is to simply let gravity/friction do the job with two piece furniture like hutches. AAMOF, we have two hutches in the house, factory made and not inexpensive, and both went with this philosophy, with nothing but gravity and friction to "join" them..

That said, I used trim along the sides of the piece, attached to the bottom unit only, on my last similar two piece project ... mainly to help keep alignment, as it had drawers and there was a tendency to move backward with the closing of the drawers.

My preference is that if there is no need for joining the pieces, as above, I go with the simplest (read gravity) method consistent with the design of the piece.

Just my tuppence ...

Swingman wrote: [snip]

AAMOF, we have two hutches in the house, factory made and not

Unless you live in earthquake country, then plate steel and screws make practical sense. Not only does one join the two pieces together but it is also fastened to the wall. DAMHIKT. mahalo, jo4hn

Dear Cro-Magnon person:

I have a workbench with a 1 3/4" maple top joined to the botom by gravity and located by dowels. For everything except the most vigorous hand planing it's just fine, and then it just walks a little but doesn't separate. A hutch is subject to rather less force, so why not let nature rule? I'm also building a two-piece unit, in this case a stereo cabinet. I plan to let Mr. Einstein's gravity do the work here as well. What could be more natural?

Disclaimer: I have used tailed tools in the commission of this project. Will a security guard come and kneel on my chest?

Bob

You're right of course and the correction is duly noted .. we do not take that into account around here, but I sure would were I somehow living voluntarily on a fault zone. :)

AAMOF, the last earthquake we had here in Houston was when Betty Sue and Billy Bob tried to steal a tire from Leon about twenty years ago.

;>)

I'm working on a similar piece. I was figuring on using screws from beneath.

Newton?

I like the dowel or figure 8 fasteners.

Dave

As refined and improved by 'ol Albert, the Master.

On Wed, 18 Aug 2004 16:13:29 GMT, "Bob Schmall" calmly ranted:

Yeah, the discoverer of fig bars also discovered gravity and Uncle Al thought up all sorts of new things to do with it, and electrons, and light, and energy. Cool dude, too.

See the movie I.Q. for the details. (Matthau, Ryan, Robbins)

|On Wed, 18 Aug 2004 16:13:29 GMT, "Bob Schmall" |calmly ranted: | |>

|>As refined and improved by 'ol Albert, the Master. | |Yeah, the discoverer of fig bars also discovered gravity

And all along I thought Lucy discovered gravity about 3.5 million years ago when she fell out of a tree. Go figure.

Chuck

I've done 4 or 5 two piece cabinets for clients. Although gravity is probably sufficient, I never want to have a client phone me up to say that someone has knocked the top piece off. So, I use threaded inserts in the bottom of the top cabinet. I use knock-down bolts (the ones with a thin head that use an allen key) that go through the bottom cabinet. The boltheads sit in holes countersunk into the inside surface of the bottom cabinet's top. I've found this to be an easy to do and very strong way to connect two part cabinets.

dp

It's all going to depend on whether you want to make it so it can be dismantled or not. Here's a few links to keep the dismantling option if you want to go that route. I'm sure Lee Valley Tools has more hardware available that could suit your purpose, but I found these with a five minute search.

Stephen Hawking? The modern day scientific iconoclast.

Dave

Naah--strictly establishment. ;-) The latest Discover magazine is devoted exclusively to Einstein, and it's a winner.

Bob

I tend to just use gravity unless there is a push/pull force, from use, on the upper section. If needed, one dowel at each end or one screw up through the top of the bottom section is ample to hold things in place.

Thanks to all who responded with their good ideas (and you too, Lar). :-) I definitely want to be able to easily separate the top, but don't want to run the risk of it moving around on its own. With that in mind, I'm leaning towards using the dowel-pin locator approach, and adding some molding which is fixed to the base.

I've looked at the various mechanical fasteners, and figure I can always add them after the fact if I'm not pleased with how things turn out. (Sort of a belt-and-suspenders approach.)

Chuck Vance