Yes, clamping or gluing is the way to go. Drilling the caliper arms is
For around double the cost, you can get horizontal and vertical dro's which
look like Harbor Freight's digital calipers without the arms, but with
mounting holes on both sides.
Here is an example of a vertical one:
and here is an example of a horizontal one:
You can find better prices if you look for it.
They also make very long ones, so you could put one on your table saw fence
if you wanted to.
Some dro's and most digital calipers have serial port connectors (intended
for statistical process control) so you could mount one inside your table
saw trunnion and put a separate display somewhere else (for example on the
overhead guard if you have one). You could use it to display the height of
You could also have one display the angle of blade, but that is a bit
Absolutely unbelievable! I would never imagine that you can get these
readouts for this kind of money. I would certainly get the readouts
that are made for mounting on a tool for the $35 or so that they are
asking for them. You can jog the number up or down slightly to bring
it into the correct reading.
By the way, where can I get the specs on the electrical interface? I
called Harbor Freight on that, but even though they said they would
get back to me, I don't think they will be able to find the info.
Where would I look? The caliper is a Cen-tech. Tried to look them up
with little success. If anyone knows who makes the readout or who in
this country might know what the interface is, let me know.
A few months ago I found a web page that described the interface. I just
looked but couldn't find it. Try searching rec.crafts.metalworking on
A year ago, the vertical dro's were going for $50. Now they are $35. I
suspect in a few years they will be $5 and people will be installing them on
their toilet seats.
Great Al. Thanks. A 3 axis display is shown here also. A little
pricey for my purposes. I am going to look for just a single external
display. So far I see that there are kits to make your own. Guess
that is an option. Really great source material. Thanks again.
Hello again AL,
As I said, it is possible to create a fixture to do what you want (on
the jointer at least) but the task is not easy and accurate results
aren't going to come cheap.
The angle plates I'm considering are in the $5 to $10 range--imported to
match my imported indicators. I realize the disk shaped points require the
indicators to be perpendicular. I just don't think it will be that hard to
do. But I will experiment with both types of points.
I've purchased a number of these cheap angle plates for fixturing in
the shop. They are pretty handy but don't expect them to be very
accurate. Don't be surprised if they rock on a flat surface.
The proper choice of indicator point is Metrology kindergarden. A
flat stylus should only be used on a round surface. A round stylus
should only be used on a flat surface. A knife edge is basically a
flat surface (flat in one dimension anyway). To obtain reliable and
repeatable results, a round stylus is called for.
"Flat contact points have an important role but can be a serious cause
of error when improperly used" "Fundamentals of Dimensional Metrology"
by Ted Busch, 2nd Edition p.256, (c) 1989 Delmar Publishers Inc.
This is a great book by the way. A "must read" for anyone interested
in designing their own alignment and measurement fixturing. It can
still be found on Amazon for about $3.00. The latest edition will set
you back about $85.
The gages sold by Oneway and Powermatic use flat disk shaped points. I will
be trying several different shapes to see what works best. The rules be
d*mned. I also have the Fundamentals of Dimensional Metrology and think it
is very good.
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