Don't know if you're still interested in a edge sander, or want to mess with 3 phase equipment, but there is a sander in Houston for sale.... also, two flammable cabinets, if those may be of interest.
Wow, Sonny! Your memory is pretty good. I have resigned to not have an
edge sander at this point.
I mostly wanted it to clean up rail and stile joints on the tops and
bottoms. I since have figured out a way to clamp these assemblies that
require very little sanding afterward.
It is really pretty simple but did take me 30 something years to figure
this out. ;~)
A picture is worth a thousand words.
Basically during normal glue up the rails will end up slightly shy or
proud of the ends of the stiles. This mismatch has to be cut and or
The picture does not show the clamps that hold the stiles against the
rails, this comes after, the pictured clamps are in place insuring that
the outer edges of the rails are perfectly lined up with the ends of the
The 4 lighter colored oak pieces are to protect the walnut on the inside
and to insure positive alignment on the top and bottom.
On Tuesday, February 24, 2015 at 4:41:06 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
Damn! I'm gonna need more clamps.
I assume the smaller clamps are simply there to hold the oak to the rail so it can be put in place as a single unit. No fumbling with the rail and the oak as separate pieces while trying to set up the long clamps, right?
The small clamps index the outer oak board precisely at the bottom or
top edge of the rail. The rail therefore cannot slide further past the
ends of the stiles because the oak is longer than the rails. The long
clamps insure that the oak and rail unit do not come short of the bottom
of the rails.
After these steps I apply a clamp perpendicular across the ends of the
stiles to squeeze up tight to the rails.
The small clamps are instrumental in insuring no gap between the oak and
the rails. I assessable the rails and stiles first and then add the oak
pieces and clamps to index everything properly.
Well actually a large percentage of my door frames are stub tennon
joints. I waxed the oak with paste wax
AND, and..and.... I don't leave the clamps, seen in the picture, on
during the curing process. I remove those clamps as soon as I have
applied the top and bottom clamps that run parallel and over/under the
top and bottom rails. I just use the pictured set up to hold every
thing in place before I use the clamps that will actually be holding the
On Wednesday, February 25, 2015 at 3:21:33 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
Any tricks for ensuring that the doors end up perfectly flat? I've not been through the process yet...I'm just trying to be prepared for all issues.
Not only flat, but square also. I assume that a properly cut stub tenon will ensure squareness, but can something cause the door not to come out flat during the glue-up? If so, what's the trick (there's always a trick!) to preventing/fixing that?
The set up I use, which insures that the rails outer edges are flush
with the ends of the stiles naturally squares the set up but as you
suspected square cut pieces proper clamped will self square.
If your bottom clamps are not on the same plane they will introduce
twist to the glue up. Clamps sitting on a flat surface is the number
one thing you need to insure. Straight and flat stock is always
helpful. ;~) FWIW I never check my doors for square. If the cuts are
square and the joints are properly closed it comes out square.
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