Phase converter

I was looking at a jointer with a 3HP 3-phase motor. I'd like to run this from my home which has 220v. Would I be able to run it on a 20A (preferably) or 30A circuit?
Can you give me an example of a "phase converter" which would be up to the task? I saw one for $89, but I couldn't tell whether it would be up to the task or not. I imagine it might be wiser to avoid 3-phase and keep looking, but I thought I would check with the experts here first.
Thanks! Bill
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If it were me, and the jointers is really clean and knives in good shape and everything looks right on the bed, etc. Then I'd check on a single phase motor, for pricing. Check the frame size of the original so you can get an equivalent 1ph motor and use that as a bargaining chip. Very few people have 3 ph at home.
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OFWW wrote:

I like your idea. Do you know if that transition require a new switch assembly, or are these designed to be reconfigurable? If I want to actually "touch and feel" the machine, I'm looking at an 80 or 90 mile drive (each way). Then I would have to pay someone who is insured to pick it up on a "flat bed truck". I've started investigating how to get that done. Thanks, Bill
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On 6/15/2018 3:52 AM, Bill wrote: ...

It'll have 3Ph mag starter; you can wire it to only use the two sides of the single phase but you'll need to resize the heaters to match the single phase current of your replacement motor.
I put in a 3PH converter to bring the PM 180 planer and a 5 HP DC but it was more like 10X (not quite) the $89...it's rotary and capable of 10 HP continuous, though, not just "phantom" third phase that is likely what the $89 is from capacitors only
<https://www.phoenixphaseconverters.com/Shop/rotary-phase-converters.html
As OFWW says, look at seeing if can find single-phase motor used; for home use undoubtedly you can get by with less motor than 3 hp, too, and never know the difference.
On a 3hp, you'll be talking FLA of 16-20 A; you'll almost certainly have to have #10/30A circuit wiring for 240V operation; it'll be >30A at 120V which also gets to be somewhat of pain for just home workshop.
--


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On 6/15/2018 7:45 AM, dpb wrote: ...

...
BTW, if you do choose to go the converter route, remember the supply wiring to the converter has to be sized for the current based on the single phase supply...that has much to do with where you would want to install it to keep that run short.
--


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I have a home made Single phase 220 to 3-phase at 380v/phase from a rotary and six transformers. Each leg has a step-up transformer and a series boost in each leg. I control the high voltage from contactors so I can have SP-220, 3-p-220 and 3p-380. I use the hv 3p on my surface grinders. Each grinder has three motors so the pain was make a 3p system HV and use smaller cable or buy larger cable and convert 6 motors.
I took the expensive route.
Once you find what you get - then you look into what is needed to fixit up. MSCdirect.com has convers both rotary and static.
Martin
On 6/15/2018 7:45 AM, dpb wrote:

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dpb gave some great advice. I don't know what type of a switch is on the jointer so it would be hard to say, there are so many variables that I would ask the guy first what he has and a picture if possible.
an electrician or you could rewire the control circuit, but you would have to change the overload heaters for the 1ph motor and you would also have to see what the switch was rated for, as the contacts might be undersized for the motor amperage. The contacts should be inspected to see what kind of condition they are in, not burnt, not badly pitted or they would require changing out anyhow. and depending on the age and brand it might limit what you can get in an electrical supply store. WW Grainger has an online catalogue that can help if you know what you are looking for.
Also, if you can tow, then a one way trailer could be used, but you would have to verify that, and it would be easier to get it in a trailer than on and off a flat bed.
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On 6/15/2018 11:57 PM, OFWW wrote: ...

...
3ph is virtually certain to have magnetic starter; a NEMA 1 is rated 3hp single phase; I'd be extremely surprised if the jointer he's looking at has a NEMA 0 although is possible; that would be the question to ask.
The question of vintage and availability of heaters is a good one altho most old models of the usual manufacturers one can find replacement heaters for or others will cross.
--


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But included on the jointer itself? I wish I could see pictures of it. He didn't say if it was an 8,10,etc inch jointer
The jointer could have a low voltage SP switch, 24v, 110v, or 220v depending on the coil in the mag. For some reason in the back of my mind I keep thinking of a 3p switch with overload heaters, fed by a 3p knife switch fused or non fused. I have seen a lot of weird things in my day.

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On 6/16/2018 10:55 AM, OFWW wrote:

...
I would certainly expect a one-unit starter, yes, with just remote push button switch mounted somewhere on the machine.
Wouldn't ever dream of buying without at least pictures and details, certainly, but my expectation until shown different would be something similar to
<shorturl.at/rIPX9>
which is picture of what Rockwell/Delta used for years and years and years...there will be a mag switch besides, yes, but this kind of arrangement is what I would certainly expect.
I bought a dozen or so of these puppies used/reclaimed off old machines 30 yr or so ago and retrofitted them to everything in the shop 240V. Still have a decent stash... :)
Many single-phase machines did come with mechanical switches, true, but it's pretty-much unheard of in the 3ph world.
Now again, if this started out as something else and was retrofitted, then anything is possible, granted; I was just presuming it's an old OEM setup from somebody; Crescent, Rockwell, Oliver, ...
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On 6/16/2018 11:24 AM, dpb wrote: ...

...
I just now noticed somebody removed the other two heater blocks from this one to use it on single phase; there's no need to do that, just jumper the neutral (L2) and leave L3 empty (or even with the heater there; there's just no connection so totally immaterial).
--


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Your link is missing something so I couldn't see it. :(
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On 6/16/2018 11:54 AM, OFWW wrote: ...

I shouldn't've surrounded it w/ the <> I guess...try just
shorturl.at/rIPX9
--




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That worked when I did a cut n paste.
Looks to me like he eliminated all heaters, L1 is connected to the top of the heater, unless he ran the L1 really tight and parallel to the heater, and the red wire to the coil is up there for sure so the heater if tripped would not kill the control circuit.
However, for whatever reason I could not zoom the picture large enough for clarification there.
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On 6/16/2018 2:01 PM, OFWW wrote:

You're right; that's a cobbed-up hookup fer sure...at the smaller pitchures over on the RHS there's a wiring diagram for a single-phase version but not a picture of the guts of one.
There's an even earlier Rockwell wiring manual for the Furnas-supplied starters at the OWWM site <http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2805.pdf with text/drawing superimposed on pictures of parts. Publishing ain't what it used to be... :)
I'll try to go take a picture or two here; I have one in PM gold, even :) -- when I bought the Model 66 from factory in McMinnville, I ordered it w/o electrics to save a few bucks since I had already gotten the stash figured might as well use one of them instead of giving Powermatic another $50 or whatever it was...seemed like a lot of money then! :)
--




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WOW! I kept a copy of that just for old times sake. While some of the circuits don't have the proper safeties for full power cut off, it did show that circuit that was in the back of my mind. And this diagram should be of great interest to the OP as it shows all the variables. Albeit the new stuff is somewhat different but the circuits should still be applicable if used per local code.

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On 6/16/2018 4:16 PM, OFWW wrote:
...

...
Indeed, the basic controller circuit logic is unchanged and same for all. I've paid no attention to Code changes since about the early 70s when went from 2-wire to 3 so I can't speak of what else there might be required if somebody were anal-enough to try to meet current Code with 1960's (roughly*) vintage gear.
(*) I bought the Model 66 new in late 70s and PM had gone to the Cadillac gold w/ green/red stripe then; the solid green preceded it but this from the pictures looks like is probably the lighter later-vintage green, not the original darker. Somewhere I've got a timeline of PM color schemes but can't seem to put hands on it at the moment.
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https://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/filedata/fetch?id 7114&d18576342 (bottom of page): http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/PaintColorsPowermatic.ashx
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OFWW wrote:

Look at Item #5 on the list. Item #6 looks like the switch has been modified. Those are the only differences I can see from the pics.
http://www.irsauctions.com/index_lots.asp?pg tails&id!941
BTW, the people that run these auctions aren't good at answering questions. Last time I went to look at a machine, the electric had been turned off and they couldn't even turn it on.
Bill
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Often times, those furniture companies use auto feeders with those tools, h ence the 3hp motors to handle the feed rate. A hobby shop only needs 1.5hp to 2hp for hand feeding stock. My 8" jointer has a 1.5hp, 3450 rpm, sing le phase, 110V, induction motor. It has never bogged down, in the slighte st.
Baldor, Leeson, Marathon are expensive, as are Powermatics replacement moto rs.
Grizzly has a 1hp motor for >$200. Their 2hp motor is $225 - http://www.g rizzly.com/products/Heavy-Duty-Motor-1-1-2-HP-Single-Phase-3450-RPM-TEFC-11 0V-220V/G2535 Would need to check the mounting plate.
A sale is coming soon in Peru, IN. The listings aren't shown, yet. The a nnouncement-list mentions jointers (plural) and maintenance equipment & sup plies ....might there be some motors? Isn't Peru much closer to you? Mig ht be worth the wait-n-see what's offered, there. http://www.irsauctions.com/index_lots.asp?pg tails&id!935
Sonny
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