OT - Tapping A 10MM Weld Nut To 12MM - Doable? (Hitch Install)

[DerbyDad03]

Gotcha...but still can't get to it to weld it once the bumper bar is mounted.

It's something to consider.

[DerbyDad03]

Actually, there may not be much expense. A neighbor is bringing his kit over tomorrow. We're going to try a 10mm Heli-Coil and see what happens.

[J. Clarke]

If one is tempted to go with the cheap stuff, read the reviews on Amazon very carefully, especially the negative ones, and see what people are complaining about. If they've got what looks like a legitimate grievance over the part rather than the shipping, take it to heart. And if it isn't both sold by and shipped by Amazon stay away.

Note that you need the tap (the outside thread is nonstandard), the drill to match the tap, and the insertion tool. The Helicoil brand kits on Amazon don't have the drill, some of the knockoffs do.

Also note that there are three different thread pitches for M10. Make sure you get the right one.

[Puckdropper]

J. Clarke [e-mail] wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Is there a process for this? I've only got the one torque wrench...

Puckdropper

[dpb]

I didn't look at pitchures, but if it's at all possible to get behind, alternative is to remove the nut and use through bolt in place...or don't worry about the threads in the nut; just drill out to get a bolt thru the hole. No tapping required.

[DerbyDad03]

In at least 2 posts, starting with the OP, I have stated that there is no access to the weld nut.

[J. Clarke]

A foot-pound is exactly that--one pound force exerted over a moment arm of one foot.

So any kind of rig you can make up that lets you put a known weight on a known moment arm will do. If you don't have any other way to do it, set the wrench to the torque you want (if it's a "click" type wrench), put a big socket on it, clamp the socket in a vise with the wrench horizontal or tilted up a tiny bit, measure off 12 inches from the center of the socket, and hang weight on it until it clicks or hits the mark. If the weight is approximately what it's supposed to be you're set, if not that's another story.

You're looking for an accuracy of +/- 4%, and you want to check at 20,

60, and 100% of the rated capacity.

[dpb]

On 9/13/2020 8:28 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ...

Then how you propose to drill it out and tap it...

[J. Clarke]

Through the same hole that he was putting the bolt through?

[DerbyDad03]

I was responding to your comment "but if it's at all possible to get behind".

Perhaps I should of been as exact in that response as I was another post:

"There is no access to the area behind the weld nut."

Granted in my OP, I simply said "There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle." Obviously there is access to the face of the weld nut otherwise I wouldn't be able to get the bolts in. That is how I would drill and tap it.

Bottom line: Drilling a through hole and using a nut and bolt in the same location as the weld nut is not doable because I would not be able to get the nut on the bolt without cutting a pretty significant opening in a structural part of the frame.

In addition, I don't have enough access to use a pull wire (the wire with a "spring" on the end the threads onto the bolt) to pull a bolt in from the back and put a nut on the front.

[Clare Snyder]

-______- ZING-_-_____ drom the FRONT - throught the frame.

Some peoples's kids - - - -

[Clare Snyder]

Too bad 11mm bolts (and taps) are so rare - - - - - (used on Subaru flywheels/crankshafts among a very few other applications I am aware of) - but I still like the idea of a 7/16" bolt - - - It would have a

5/8" head - or make up a custom stud - 7/16 into the hole with 10mm end to use a 10mm metric nut - - -id you want to keep withusing only metric wrenches.

[DerbyDad03]

Actually, it's from the *rear* through the frame. I typically mount my hitches on the rear of my vehicles.

(No progress yet, it rained all day Sunday)