15mm-10mm isolating valves.

ta

-- Mark

Why not unscrew the tails and replace with flexibles with 15mm ends ?

or cut down the 10mm tails a bit

Nick

Ahh that's a good idea, I don't normally use flexible tails, cost and all. But can you actually buy short flexibles with the correct male fitting to connect to monobloc taps ?

-- Mark

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 22:57:44 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "nick smith" strung together this:

That'd be the easiest way.

Yes - either 10 or 12 mm fitting. Pipe is 300mm long and ends in a 15mm compression but by unscrewing this you get a 1/2 BSP which helps some applications. Measure the ones that came with the tap first.

They are dirt cheap from Screwyou or BES and allow one to hide all the pipework up behind the waste making it look a bit neater.

You need to ask your local plumbers merchant for a couple of 15mm to 10mm reducing sets, one for each tap tail. These fit in the nut part of a normal

HTH

John

Yes that's why I've got no room, the plumbing is already "Truly hidden" going straight through the wall behind the basin, and only 100mm below the bottom of the tap. Just enough room for an isolating valve or a reducer but not both, with cutting the tails to as short as possible. unless I play origami with 10mm pipe and a bender ;-)

-- Mark

Yes Brilliant thanks, my nearest plumbers merchant is a "Centre" so I don't know if they will stock them, they had never heard of a 15/10 reducers or isolating valve either.

-- Mark

On Mon, 26 Apr 2004 00:13:10 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "Mark" strung together this:

I use angled service valves for that, like a 90 degree tap connector with a service valve built in. Put one of these onto the pipe coming out of the wall, screw a 15mm compression coupler onto the end of it with a 15x10 reducer and hey presto etc...

B&Q W usually have the reducing sets.