I'm no plumber, but I can manage relatively simple projects. With due regard
to these limitations, I'm going to replace the shower in my son's property.
It's a straightforward job, a 9.5kW electric shower over the bath - I've
done a number before without problems. However, this time I've got a query
that I hope the more knowledgable here will be able to help with. I want to
fit a stop-tap/isolating valve before the shower so that in future it can be
serviced/repaired without having to turn off the whole supply to the house.
Because it is a 9.5kW one (yes, I'm going to replace the supply cable with
10mm one, etc), there is - or might be - an issue regarding water pressure.
I understand that some stop-taps/isolating valves can restrict water flow
fairly considerably, so - with that in mind - what would be the recommended
way of dealing with this?
On Mon, 15 Mar 2010 10:43:38 +0000, Farmer Giles wrote:
Just fit a 'full bore' isolating valve:
I would suggest the lever type if you've got space as the internal ball
type can sometimes seize or leak.
Using Ubuntu Linux
If the feed pipe is accessible under the bath (remove side panel) you could
try a standard gate valve .This is then easily reached but out of sight
.Mine has been there for 10 yrs now and 2 shower units later still works
I've experienced very poor water pressure at the shower output end
of a Triton Jade 8.5kw.
Thinking it was the shower itself I replaced it (after a year)
with a Triton Seville 9.5kw.
I previously had an isolating valve fitted and changed this to a
lever type thinking the flow-rate would improve, sadly though it
has made no difference, the problem I think is with the showers.
Our previous house (about eight years ago) and in the same area
had a Triton shower fitted and this had a powerful head of water
The mains water pressure is fantastic but not at the shower end so
I can only presume that the newer showers have some sort of built
in restriction to save water as both the new showers are crap in
comparison to the much older eight year old shower we used.
All three showers are fed directly from the mains.
Has anyone noticed this decline in water pressure on their shower?
The shower heats the cold water as it arrives. The more kW, the more
heat it can put in, so the more it can turn the flow up. At the moment
the incoming water is pretty cold, so needs more heating - so it turns
the flow rate down so you still get hot water.
Welcome to the world of instant heating.
If I turn the shower to the coldest setting it has a satisfactory
flow (albeit cold) until you start to turn up the hot water switch
then it becomes dismal, I'll have to see if it improves during the
summer when the heat setting will be set lower, giving more water
1990's house, there's one either side of the pump, so you can change
it without draining down. Both gate valves have failed (started
leaking) and had to be replaced, and of course you can't change
those without draining down, so that was two extra draindowns.
OTOH, the pump has never failed (yes, I know I shouldn't say
things like that...)
There's another one on the tank outlet, which I wanted to turn
off in order to remove a bath tap. Well, the gate valve shuts
down to about 20% flow rate when fully closed...
I installed 6 of them as part of my central heating, so parts of
the system can be isolated in the event of a leak and the rest
carry on working. They were fine when I remembered to operate
them once a year, but eventually that lapsed, and half of them
are seized on (or at least, I'm not going to put enough force
on them to free/break them without some very good reason).
Two started leaking though the valve stem, but that was fixed
by tightening down the nut. They're all 22mm.
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