Flexi monobloc tap connectors with service valves

[Heliotrope Smith]

Not quite right. Flexi tap connectors with or without built in isolator screw directly onto the tap. Turn off water and leave flexies on installation pipework, not the tap. If you wish to remove the tap for any reason it would not be possible to remove the back nut with flexi still attached.

As for monoblock taps with female thread then a flexi with built in isolator would be no good because the whole flexi hose needs to turn to screw it into the tap base so would require isolating water elsewhere.

[NoSpam]

Having failed to find some basin tap shut-off valves for a sensible price I've been looking without success for some flexi tap connectors (with a built-in service valve) that are suitable for a moonbloc tap (10mm thread, I think). Any suggestions who sells them?

If I can't find anything I'll have to resort to what I've done before:

15mm wallplate with a rad tail screwed into it and a 90 deg service valve on the tail, then a flexi. Crazy! There must be an easier way.

Dave

[Merryterry]

Use a 15mm Iso valve then a short piece of 15mm copper then a 15mm -

10mm threaded Flexitap connector stocked at most good Plumbers Merchants.

[John Stumbles]

I always prefer to keep the service valves separate from the tap tails so that if I need to replace or remove the taps I can use the service valves to shut of the water while I'm doing it. Seems rather pointless otherwise.

[NoSpam]

Thanks, I'll probably have to resort to that; it's what I ended-up doing last time.

D

[Pete C]

Hi,

What flexis came with the tap, if any?

cheers, Pete.

[NoSpam]

Standard copper tails.

D

[The Medway Handyman]

Indeed. I've always thought that flexible tap tails/connectors with a built in valve are a daft idea. You need to ba able to turn the water off & then remove the tail, leaving the tails attached to the tap.

[NoSpam]

Normal tap servicing just requires changing the washer/jumper/cartridge rather than disconnecting the tap, but I agree that preferably it should be possible to easily remove the flexi. How DID we all manage before isolators came into fashion ;-)

Dave

[Pete C]

OK

I'd put a 15mm compression/15mm solder fitting to 1/2" BSP male on the copper tails,

Then use a 15mm compression to 1/2 BSP female with service valve to connect to it.

If the copper tails will get in the way...

I'd get M10 to 15mm compression flexibles for the tap.

Then take the compression nut off to leave just a 1/2 BSP male (virtually all 15mm compression fittings use a 1/2 BSP thread)

But check the end of the thread isn't sharp, sanding a little 'flat' on it if need be.

cheers, Pete.

[Andrew Gabriel]

I use an isolation valve with 15mm compression one side and 1/2" union the other side (e.g. BES part number 10403), and flexible connectors with a 1/2" male thread on one end (e.g. 15mm compression fitting with nut and olive removed). You need to add a seal to the union as it's not designed to seal against a 1/2" male -- an 0-ring works perfectly.