I have bought 6 JB Weld kits. (by kit, i mean the two tubes).
I'm using the JB Kwik (fast dry stuff), to plug nail holes in some
used corrigated roofing tin. It works great, except for some reason
in all of the kits, the black comes right out of the tube, while the
light gray stuff is nearly impossible to get it out. I have to
literally step on the tube and put my full weight on it to get it out.
On one tube I blew the bottom out of the tube.
It mixes ok and works fine, but it's such a struggle getting it out.
Has anyone else run into this? I should mention the temperature has
been in the 60s to 80s F. So it's according to the instructions.
Any ideas or suggestions? I'm tempted to contact the company but I
wanted to ask if this is a common problem, first.
Call the company. They can translate the code numbers on the ends of the tubes
and tell you how old the stuff is. Your next step then depends on the age of
the product. If it's still within its expected shelf life, the manufacturer
should replace it; if not, then you should return it to the retailer for
exchange -- and make sure you get new stuff the second time around.
Properly filled epoxy formulations do not thicken with age, I have
some from experimental work in the 1960's that works just fine. The
hardeners are a different matter. In some cases they are polyamide
based and can thicken if not formulated with neutral type fillers like
silica. I have some very old Sears epoxy twin tube kits kept for
emergencies, and they continue to perform quite well. In the OP case,
the hardener could be the culprit, so I agree, take it back, somebody
I own and run an epoxy coatings company for 20 years. they do not get
thick with age but the part A (resin side) may crystallize like home.
Heating will restore it to normal (again like honey). I have head of
folks using 28 year old epoxy. -- paul
On Tue, 3 Aug 2010 04:44:50 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
You can let it cool after heating it. This heating just restores it to
it's original consistency if it has crystalized. Once you heat it a
little, it will stay that way for a while, even after cooling.
On Aug 3, 8:37 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I think you will find that many formulations of epoxy do thicken with
age, often the hardener. The jb weld the op is using is a putty so
I'm thinking it has a lot of thickeners in it already. I have
experienced old epoxy thickening as well but it continued to harden
fine. You can also thin it with a small amount of alcohol but that
can weaken the final product. Many "wood preservatives" are simply
On Tue, 3 Aug 2010 05:58:39 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
The biggest issue with JB weld is that it is JB Weld. Epoxy that sets
in 5 minutes is never going to produce the kind of result you get with
real epoxy resin and hardner mixed with job specific fillers.
JB Weld is right up there with duct tape for professional results.
"Handy", is it's only redeeming feature.
On 8/3/2010 8:05 AM, email@example.com wrote:
it sounds good, but in all ACTUALITY, JB is an excellent product. The
slow kind , the original, not the kwik. I've repaired, patched, glued
several things over the years with it and it works great. But you have
to use the original, not the kwik stuff.
remove the "not" from my address to email
Well, of course not. OTOH, it's cheap, versatile, and handy,
everything your "job-specific" alternative isn't.
Now, if I could only find an equivelent to the old non-mixing filled
epoxy by the brand name, Liquid Steel.
JB WELD is NOT cheap! It is far more expensive than the real stuff.
It's an easy sell to amateurs, though.
It isn't nearly as versatile as mixing job specific epoxy and filers,
I'll give you handy, if it is with the stipulation that the result is
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