I've been using J-B Weld for years. When I went to buy some new tubes
today, I noticed the borg also carries J-B Kwik which claims a 4
minute set time, 4 hour cure.
My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour
cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.
Any thoughts on the matter? Is J-B Kwik just as good as J-B Weld when
both have cured completely?
I used the JB Kwik stuff, and it is as good as the JB Weld. When I want to
fix something, there's no use of just not letting it sit for 24 hours. Only
thing I can see is that it is a slightly different color (darker) and it
sits up a little faster, which would help if you're using it in a location
that is going to sag.
I'd say they both would be cured in 24 hours.
JB "Weld" is simply epoxy and filler.
Your intuition is correct. Faster setting epoxy is weaker than slower
setting, both in compressive strength and bond strength.
See the excellent downloadable manuals on epoxy products and applications:
Thanks for the response. I am very familiar with epoxies and fillers.
I have the West Systems pump setup, but I only use it when I need more
than a little bit. http://www.westsystem.com /
Even with the smaller pumps, you get more than you need for most
simple repairs and it's a bit more expensive. That's why I use the JB
product for small fixes. I assumed the Kwik set stuff would be weaker
but I just thought I'd check.
For smaller measures of epoxy resin and hardener,you can use those oral
syringes the pharmacies have for dispensing medicines.They're pretty
inexpensive,use one for resin,another for hardener.
I also have some small 1 oz graduated cups made for measuring
medicines;they are calibrated in cc's,mL,drams,and fractions of oz.You can
buy a stack of 100 for less than $10 at WalMart.They are GREAT for
measuring/mixing small amounts of epoxy.I just pour in the resin to the
desired amt,and the hardener on top to its required amt,and stir.
I use RAKA(similar to West),J-B Weld,and Hysol 608 epoxies.
(used some tonight!)
On Wed, 31 Jan 2007 20:59:56 -0600, "Steve Barker"
If thats the case, I want some JB Century. (Takes a Century to cure),
but is stronger than God himself.
Actually I think I have some JB Century. About a year ago I mixed
half JB Weld and half JB Kwik by accident. It was half hardner and
half resin, but the stuff never hardened. One year later its still
soft, and I even put the metal object on top of my wood furnace for
awhile hoping the heat would cure it. Nothing will harden it. I had
glued an air filter canister from a small engine to a piece of
plumbing pipe to use as an air intake for an air compressor. Since it
never hardened, I just bought a air filter made for the compressor,
but just for the hell of it, I still have that old glued piece and I
am waiting to see how long it takes to cure and harden. Maybe it never
Sometimes I hold things together with Ambroid Cement, which dries in
less than 5 mintues (although I give it a half hour to "cure") and
then put on expoxy to really hold it. I make sure there are plenty of
bonding places that the Ambroid Cement** isn't touching.
**Available at hobby stores only. Comes in one tube, pretty strong
but can be broken apart later if need be.
longer curing epoxies are stronger. also,epoxies don't FULLY cure(max
strength) until a couple of weeks later;the time they give for "cure" is
for "can be handled"
One thing;the quick cure stuff will not have as much time to RUN(flow) as
the long-cure J-B Weld.
You are right, your degree carries no knowledge
about the issue. The issue is about definitions
and product labels. You might want to ask Jim
Yanik and others exactly what he/they call rubbing
alcohol. Many people call standard 70% isopropyl
alcohol "rubbing alcohol."
Standard 70 % isopropyl alcohol as bought in drug
and grocery stores contains no oil (at least the
label gives no indication of any oil). Just look
at the ingredients on the label. If one doesn't
want to believe that, then test it for oil.
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