This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn
Anyway I may add some accent lighting to the upper unit and I need to
address the wires under the desk top, I have plenty of support under the
desk top that I could hang the wiring, sub wolfer, and UPS.
I think I may eventually extend the top trim out another layer and put
LED ribbon lighting under it's edge and or add the same type lighting
along the bottom rail just above the monitor. That may be too close and
cause glare, maybe not.
So here is a shot of the desk from a distance just outside the office.
The desk and top are about 86" tall, and 96" wide. The desk top is 34"
deep. I am happy with all of the arcs, the top rails of each desk
drawer, the gradual one just under the desk top in front, it has another
3/4" rail, attached just behind it and there are 3 more pairs of rails
behind that. And I am especially happy with the ark created from the
door top rails that integrate with the cubby top face frame rail.
From inside the office straight into the desk top,
And a couple of close ups of the in/out boxes in the top. I used the
Incra iBox jig to cut assist with cutting the box joints for the boxes.
The whistling boxes are a 1/4" white oak.
At first I was going to ask you how you got the 1/4" oak, but just for
kicks googled 1/4" oak, and ended up at Rocklers (which gets too much of
my money already).
Since I don't have a really good bandsaw, I must ask which Laguna you
have, but I'm pretty sure my hobbyist needs won't warrant the investment.
Nevertheless, what Laguna bandsaw do you have?
The expensive one. :-). Seriously., I has a Craftsman for many years and
avoided using it because it had to be set up every time I used it.
Replaced it with an 18" Rikon and still was not happy. I was especially
not happy with the roller guides on the Rikon. While roller guides seem to
make perfect sense they ended up being noisy and vibrated when dirty. Then
I saw the Laguna and it's 10 point ceramic guides and I have been very
happy with the saw.
It is the LT 16 HD with the 4.5 hp Baldor motor. There are much les
expensive models available.
It really did not make sense, however I use the saw much much more than
the previous two. I wanted a saw that would perform when called on to
do so vs. one that would need to be tweaked every time I needed to use it.
I used Old Masters Gel varnish, applied with a folded Scotts blue shop
paper towel and excess wiped with the same. 3 coats.
heavy wear items like desk tops. Maybe I'll try gel varnish next time. I have
used gel stain and liked it.
The brand has been around for a long time IIRC, 35+ years.
If you like gel stains, you should really like gel varnishes. Like
anything else there are different qualities.
I originally started using Bartley gel stains and varnishes in the early
90's. Bartely's sold out to Lawrence McFadden and I loved the LM gel
varnish but they went out of business. I was not impressed by General
Finishes gel varnishes, YMMV
Out of desperation I dried Old Masters, it was the most like the LM gel
There is a bit of a learning curve. The first coat is always simple,
wipe it on, immediately wipe it off. Second coat wipe on and
wipe/smooth ASAP, after a minute or so. The thicker you put it on the
easier it is to remove. This coat tends to take time to dry depending
on the humidity and temperature. For me lower humidity works better but
in Houston that is hard to come by. The instructions call for a second
wipe down/buff with a new clean cloth between coats and this tends to be
a bit harder to determine when to do so, sooner is better or much much
later is better. Having said all of this using the Scotts paper towels
I never had to wipe/buff a "second time between coats".
Once dry to the touch you can apply another coat. On a good day I can
apply 3 coats.
Once thoroughly dry wrap a piece of paper around a block of wood and rub
it all down to give it a baby butt smooth surface.
FWIW I used it on this also,
Not a complaint: You may recall, some time ago, I had trouble opening your
Flickr pages. This last link (above) opened fine. I have discovered tha
t anyone's Flickr link, not just yours, with "lightbox/" at the end of the
URL, disallowed opening anyone's Flickr page. I suppose the problem must b
e, might be, on my end. In case anyone else has this problem, copy and pas
te the URL and remove the "lightbox/" before opening.
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