I'm painting the stick built kitchen cabinets and left SWMBO in charge of
choosing the hardware. She found handles she liked so I gave her the specs
for the hinges (3/8" inset, surface mount) so she could find some to match
the handles. She doesn't want Euro hinges, she wants to see the hardware.
The vertical spacing on the new hinges match the face frame holes perfectly,
but they are half a hole off horizontally. 17 doors, 34 hinges, 68 holes.
I suspect that the existing hinges are original to the house, so they are
over 60 years old. The new hinges are self-closing and the body is just a
little bit wider.
If I use the existing holes, they move the doors over just enough that
the partial inset on the handle side rubs on the face frame *before* the
doors are painted. Unfortunately, I'm already done painting 2/3's of the
doors, so I don't want to alter the doors and have to repaint.
I just spent a thrilling evening drilling and plugging 68 hinge holes so
the new screws will have solid wood to bite into. Luckily my chisels are
scary sharp, so I was able to easily shave off any plug that stood proud.
Great, now I can get back to task I hate the most: Painting.
On Wednesday, November 13, 2019 at 8:12:09 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
Actually, it's a holiday gift for the "kids". They are all (4 + 2) coming
home for Thanksgiving. I'm painting all the "public" spaces, put new trim
in the living room and the carpet installers just left. One son knows about
the painting, another knows about the carpet, but they've both been sworn
I've got 1 weekend and 9 evenings to finish the kitchen, hang pictures, knick
this and knack that. It's going to be close. I may end up enlisted a son or
two to help me hang the cabinet doors. I'm too tired to stress about getting
it done before they arrive. We also have to clean out the bedrooms where we've
been stashing stuff during the project.
BTW...the carpet installers said "We rarely install carpet this thick. This
is nice stuff!" My feet are smiling. ;-)
On Wednesday, November 13, 2019 at 2:00:25 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I had to cut down a dozen or so doors at my parents after they installed new carpet. Having a Festool track saw makes that job much easier. Hardest part was getting the bi fold closet doors back on correctly.
On Wednesday, November 13, 2019 at 5:00:44 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
Mine aren't solid. I hope I have enough bottom rail...I should. I don't recall
if I shortened them the last time we had carpet installed.
I once had to shorten a hollow core door so much that I needed to glue in a
new bottom rail. My son lived in a basement "apartment" at a friend's house.
(It was really just a bedroom but he had his own bathroom.) The staircase came
down the center of the house to a landing. Turn left, down a step (2 risers)
and you went into the laundry area, turn right, down a step (2 risers) and
you went into my son's room. He had no door when he moved in, so we bought a
$25 door at a salvage store, cut it down and hung it over the step. (I forget
the reason, but we couldn't hang it on the landing) We actually hung it upside
down so that the door knob was a bit closer to normal height when the user
was on the landing since the bottom of the door was a full step down.
Anyway, we had to cut so much off that we needed to insert a new bottom rail
into what used to be the top of the door.
So, we measure the height from the step to the ceiling, cut/fix the door,
build a frame and hang the door. We try to open it and it hits the ceiling
when it's about 2/3's open. Who knew that a "dropped ceiling" meant that it
dropped about an inch over the width of a door. We had to take the door off,
back up the stairs and cut about 2" off of the top to get it to open fully.
Then we had to add a strip to the top of the frame to hide the gap.
It was a funny looking door, but my son's girlfriend liked it a lot better
than the curtain that was there before. ;-) That was all that separated them
from the rest the housemates when they used to laundry.
On Thursday, November 14, 2019 at 12:29:11 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
First door I ever cut was a steel entry door. Back door of a walkout basement.
Special order door was more than I could afford at the time. Stock door and metal
cutting blade for my POS Craftsman circ saw did the trick.
Did you have to make any adjustments to the weatherstripping and
threshold? The tile in the kitchen prevents the door from swinging
freely over the thinnest entry mat I can find, so I'll have to fix that
On Monday, November 18, 2019 at 2:09:53 PM UTC-5, Puckdropper wrote:
No. In my case the floor was exactly where it needed to be; it was the
ceiling that was too low. :-)
I have low ceilings in my basement, so I took the top out of the frame,
cut down the sides and cut an inch or so off the top of the door. The
door opens in, so I wasn't worried about exposing the foam innards. I did
slather some polyurethane onto the exposed foam just to "seal" it, but who
knows if that was necessary. I put the top of the frame back on and shoved
it into the opening. 30 years later everything still seems to be fine.
I had the opposite problem after they installed the very plush carpet last
week. My front door opens right into the living, i.e. no foyer. There's a
small entry area where there has never been hardwood or wall-to-wall carpet,
just some linoleum with a throw rug to wipe your feet on. I removed everything
that was there, down to the sub-floor, before the new carpet was installed.
I had them install the new carpet like the previous stuff was, on top of the
hardwood that butts up to the entry area. By the time they were done, the
thickness of the hardwood, pad and carpet left the carpet a little more than
an inch above the entry way sub-floor.
I then laid a piece of 1/2" plywood and a piece of luan in the entryway and
laid Mannington AduraMax vinyl plank, which is 5/16" thick. That brought it up
to just a tiny bit below the height of the carpet. No trip hazard in either
direction and it's level as far as vacuuming. I didn't even need a transition
strip. I ran the plank right into the closet. (The paint is drying on the new
closet door right now.)
The owner of the carpet store gave me the box of the AduraMax ($120) for free.
It was left over from another job and just taking up room on a shelf. One box
was just enough. I have one full plank left over. Tough install for a first
timer like me. More cut pieces than full planks. Learned a bunch...ready to
do the kitchen after Thanksgiving.
I'll have to keep an eye out for that. I would think this door can be
trimmed 1/4 to 1/2" without any problems, but you never know if
someone's already done it.
That looks amazing! It sounds like your carpet is such good quality it
won't start unraveling or tearing as it sees traffic. I'm putting a
transition strip on the tile to carpet transition just to keep it from
doing that. It's already showing signs.
On Monday, November 18, 2019 at 8:47:26 PM UTC-5, Puckdropper wrote:
It might depend on how the carpet was installed. All of my open edges (the
2 by the entry and the 4 doorways upstairs) were installed using the Turn
and Tack method as shown below. There are no exposed edges to unravel or
Oh wait, there is metal between the kitchen and living room. That'll go
away when I plank the kitchen, but there probably be a transition strip
of some type. You don't typically leave an exposed edge at a kitchen
because you need to be able to mop.
On Wednesday, November 13, 2019 at 1:21:44 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
. Got eggnog? I picked up 2 half gallons of Pennsylvania Dutch last nigh
Yep, time to stock up on that eggnog.
Gave/giving us a holiday gift, also. Repaired the patio roof, where a tre
e limb fell through. Signed a contract this morning for a contractor to re
-roof the rest of the house. He's to call to designate the particular day
to start.... giving me time to have the electrical service to temporarily m
ove power lines.
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