I wish I could find a clamp part as illustrated on my website at:
It does not look that hard to replicate. I made something simular for an adjustable finger jig for my table saw. I used part of a C-Clamp I dismatelled (the shaft) and my brother inlaw drilled and tapped a piece of alluminum. its athought I spent maybe 10 bucks.. Beer included for work... :)
Al
It does not look that hard to replicate. I made something simular for an adjustable finger jig for my table saw. I used part of a C-Clamp I dismatelled (the shaft) and my brother inlaw drilled and tapped a piece of alluminum. its athought I spent maybe 10 bucks.. Beer included for work... :)
Right, guess I'll stop looking for "clamp world" and make it from scratch. The guy who would help me doesn't drink, smoke or chew betel leaves but he likes wood scraps.
Dont know if these might suit your needs but LeeValley has some things that might be adaptable check out the links:
lol niether do
Al
| I wish I could find a clamp part as illustrated on my website at: |
As shown in your drawing, you'd need a hole in your box jig at least as large as the diameter of the clamp handle. Given that, I think the attachment holes appear to be a tad too close to the threaded hole.
| The metal block would fit into a box jig for some enclosures I'm | making with a Kraig pocket | hole jig. The screw part should be about 1/2" X 8". The secret to | using the pocket hole device seems to be in keeping everything | clamped in place really tight.
"Really tight" isn't necessary - "properly aligned" _is_ necessary; because the pocket hole screw's threads _should_ all be in the part screwed "to" - this is controlled by setting the drill stop collar correctly and using screws with the proper thread length. Clamping the parts "firmly" is adequate.
BTW, the name of the company is "Kreg" - and the founder's first name is "Craig".
You can buy Acme threaded rod stock and Acme taps from people like Enco
Lee Valley sells a veneer press clamp that's similar; and you can see a set in use at
I have photos of a clamp design I made for drawers and boxes at
Two of my favorite face frame clamps are the cast aluminum clamps from Woodstock International (Grizzly). I noted in the most recent McFeelys catalog that they're now offering linkage pins for these clamps that permit use with stock up to 1-3/4 inches think.
Finally, and at the risk of being horribly obvious, I'd like to suggest a Google image search for "face frame clamp" (without the quotation marks) - it'll provide a visual presentation of most of the standard products and and a lot of clamping techniques.
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA
I checked all of this , but it seemed that the alignment results were still inconsistent. What I'm making is boxes about 12" X 18". I want the tops and bottoms to extend slightly beyond the sides. The only way I can do
this is to put a shim under the part that is being drilled into first with very firm clamping (not "tight", exactly, as you say) and I'm getting pretty
good results though not perfect. It seems to be the slight variance in the final amount of torque that makes the difference, because even the shallowest angle is still an angle and will tend to shift the pieces.
This is good to know, but which elf presses the swivel pad onto the end of the rod? Maybe a machinist friend of mine has an acme tap. If they used the thread on
1930s cars anywhere he probably does. Then I could buy cheap clamps, cut away the body and make my own plates.| | | I checked all of this , but it seemed that the alignment results | were still | inconsistent. What I'm making is boxes about 12" X 18". I want the | tops | and bottoms to extend slightly beyond the sides. The only way I | can do | | this is to put a shim under the part that is being drilled into | first with very | firm clamping (not "tight", exactly, as you say) and I'm getting | pretty | | good results though not perfect. It seems to be the slight | variance in the final amount of torque that makes the difference, | because | even the shallowest angle is still an angle and will tend to shift | the pieces.
This might be the wood's way of telling you that it'd prefer to be doweled and glued.
| | | This is good to know, but which elf presses the swivel pad onto the | end of the rod?
The cold elf holds the rod while the hot elf pops on the pad. :-)
| Maybe a machinist friend of mine has an acme tap. If they used the | thread on | 1930s cars anywhere he probably does. Then I could buy cheap clamps, | cut away | the body and make my own plates.
I dunno - perhaps. I think Acme threads have been mostly reserved for machine tool adjustments and clamping devices. My 3/8" Acme tap set me back about $65 (as compared to $4 for my most recent standard thread tap). You might be able to find a better deal on eBay...
I disassembled a HF 3/4" pipe clamp this morning. The crank handle with threaded rod separates easily from the pad casting when a retainer pin is popped out. If you can find a matching nut, then you might be able to braze the nut on a (predrilled) mounting plate; and you could probably make a swivel pad out of aluminum or even wood - reattaching it to the rod with the same pin.
On the third hand, you could consider installing a Propel nut (available from LV and other places) where the mounting plate would go, and use a 1/4-20 allthread with a threaded knob and jam nut on one end and a "make-do" wooden or plastic pad on the other. This is probably the least expensive way to find out if your clamping strategy will work the way you want it to.
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA
I'd dovetail them together if my customer was willing to pay for it. Maybe if the product really takes off and I can find or make a face dovetail jig and buy a shopfull of clamps I'll go that route. Or maybe there's some kind of mdf fastener that would work (the cabinets are melamine)
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