On Thursday, June 28, 2018 at 11:44:07 PM UTC-4, Ron wrote:
Use the Load Span tables found here to determine the best type of plywood and
on-center measurements for the supports required to fit your application:
OTOH, why are you making a ramp from plywood?
You can get a 7.5' folding aluminum ramp rated at 750 lbs for under $60 here:
Probably safer when wet than plywood.
It really depends on how you support it. Make a full length
wedge-shaped piece to go on each edge (make sure they're all _unde_r
the load-bearing surface--you want them to hold it up) and one in the
middle and if you're not on pavement lay another piece of ply under it
so it doesn't sink into the ground and put in some cross-bracing so it
doesn't collapse sideways and it should be fine.
I would not trust it. FWIW I used to load Harleys in the back of my 79
GMC and used an 8' 2x12. It bowed but never enough to make me feel it
might break. Trucks tail gates were not as tall back then either.
Maybe if you put a couple of cinder blocks under the plywood to limit
the bow, you would likely be OK. It would not have to be a perfect fit,
just close enough to limit the bow.
Smart money would go with DerbyDad's suggestion. Reasonably priced and
designed for the job.
If you go with wood and choose to do it right, you'd want some metal
flanges at the end to transition to the car carrier and keep the ramp
from sliding off. (figure $15-$20)
I made some wooden ramps like that for getting a wheel chair into the
house when my late father was confined to one. Kept it as it was quite
Still use it to occasionally load a riding lawnmower into the back of a
pickup to transport for service, etc.
Made it out of a pair of 2x10's to which I glued and screwed 1x4's to
the outside edge to a) prevent any sag and b) keep the wheels from going
off the edge.
Still like Derby's suggestion best for OP's intended purpose.
On Friday, June 29, 2018 at 9:19:04 AM UTC-4, Unquestionably Confused wrote
Thanks, but I have to admit that I do have a set of home made ramps that
have worked well.
I took a couple of 2 x 6 PT boards and screwed them to some 4 x 4 PT
fence posts. They ain't bending or breaking under my usage.
The heaviest thing I've loaded with them (and why I built them) is to get
a riding lawn mower into my trailer. Maybe an 18" rise, so it's not hard
to push it up carefully and come back down if we get off center.
On Friday, June 29, 2018 at 8:17:57 AM UTC-5, Spalted Walt wrote:
Beyond the weight bearing amenities of your ramp.....
No matter what ramp you use, always tie, bolt or pin, tightly, the ramp to
the vehicle..... to the bumper, to the dedicated tie-down slots, rings, loo
ps, or to whatever.
The guy in the video, at the 1 minute mark, didn't use the ramps' ties/stra
ps, to secure the ramps to the vehicle. These ties keep the back wheel/wh
eels from ejecting the ramps from under the vehicle/trailer. So many novi
ce bike/4 wheeler/etc. users simply don't think and make this mistake of no
t securing their ramps to the trailer/vehicle.
At least some of the metal ramps come with ties, for this very purpose, but
idiot macho guys don't use them. Better safe, than sorry.
I'm amazed (not really) at the lack of thinking from many of the loaders
in the videos. The last video really stood out where the truck is facing
decline on driveway, which raises the bed of the truck. If people had
sense, they would find a spot where the tail of the truck would be at a
lower point from the ground, such as the end of the driveway.
The OP never stated the height of his car hauling trailer. Many or low
to the ground and this, makes a difference to the type of ramp he can make.
There seems to be a common thread in these episodes: a failure to
understand that maintaining balance on any two-wheeled conveyance
requires significant forward speed.
In some cases, this is replaced by the failure to recognize that the
speed sufficient to get up the ramp while maintaining balance simply
*cannot* be shed in just a couple of feet.
Of course, the folks who had the good sense to walk their bikes up the
ramps didn't have the sort of outcome that would have resulted in being
included in these vids...
On Friday, June 29, 2018 at 11:12:19 PM UTC-4, Doug Miller wrote:
I think they *understand* the need for speed (after all, they ride, don't
they?) I think those they fall simply fail to plan ahead and *remember* that
they will have to slow down once they reach the top of the ramp. You covered
those that do remember in your second paragraph ;-)
You can also toss in the use of a narrow ramp, leaving them no place to put a
foot down to hold the bike up once they slow down. Again, failure to plan
for the unexpected.
When someone is about to ride a bike up a ramp, it's either going to
turn out pretty cool or pretty bad. There *will* excitement not matter
what the result. That's worth pulling out the recording device for.
However, if a guy is going to walk a bike up a ramp, that's just not worth
recording. I'm sure there are lots of dropped bikes during roll-on attempts
(e.g. operator realizing that they are too short or too weak, failure to
maintain speed, slipping/tipping ramps, etc.) That practice is just not as
widely recorded, other than instructional videos which always tend to turn
On Sunday, July 1, 2018 at 12:14:07 AM UTC-4, Doug Miller wrote:
The mechanism at 0:35 is just as slick and the operator is so, so much cuter.
I don't know for sure, but it's possible that the "cuter" ramp can be used
as a cart to roll the bikes into storage. Those big rubber wheels sure beat
the metal rollers on the 6:58 rig for off-truck transport.
LOL, Exactly. Cant count the number of times I walked my Harley up the
2x12 into the bed of my PU. Typically my wife was pushing from the rear
also and that also kept the bike steady as I made my jump up into the
bed and steering.
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