Just bought a spray can of minwax polyurathane for my final coat on an old
walnut table. Previous coats had been minwax polyurathane fast drying rub-o
n with sanding in between. I live in a arid region of the country, so I kno
w moisture is not a problem. The spray can of minwax left a milky, rough fi
nish. I will sand it off tomorrow and go back to my hand rub routine. Very
disappointing product and waste of money!
On 6/1/2014 5:43 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I have used two separate cans, satin and semi-gloss, almost every day
this past week of this exact product, making stain samples for color
decisions for a client, and have not had a problem.
FWIW, I do not sand or scuff in between coats with this product and have
yet to have a problem.
One other thing. If you are using anything but "gloss", IOW a satin or
semi-gloss product, she simply may not have shaken the can enough.
When the direction say shake for two minutes, particularly with a
product that has particulates in it to cause a sheen, the need to
thoroughly mix the product is critical.
Go back, shake well and test it on a board to see if the the blush still
Despite an old post, a relevant aspect (maybe) can be gleaned.
Stirring properly and following can instructions may have been a part of th
e OP's problem, but I think moisture contributed to the issue.
The OP said the wood was stored in the garage (in essence, outdoors, cold t
emps?), yet the work place was a "heated porch". He/she said the wood "...
"feels" moist". He/she may not have allowed the wood's temp to acclimate t
o the work place's higher temp, hence, there may (likely?) had been slight
condensation on the wood surface. I assume, quick condensation formed on t
he can's lid, also, apparently (again, I assume, by what the OP said) immed
iately after opening.
In the OP's (I assume) colder climate location, plus the garage vs heated p
orch immediate environment, there may have been a significant temp differen
ce to cause some condensation, despite his/hers generally dry climate. A s
ignificant temp difference, from garage to work place, can negate the gener
al dry climate arena.
Op said he/she had used the product, before, with no problems. What might
have been the difference in the two work scenarios, circumstances.... Weath
er conditions, prep conditions, temp acclimation, something else, including
Where was the poly stored? Was its temperature greatly different from the
wood and/or porch area, also? ...and compare this to the previous "no prob
Funny thing ... I was using these same rattle cans yesterday to do
another couple of stain color samples and decided to change the spray
pattern from vertical to horizontal; something that can be done with
these new rattle cans with a twist of the nozzle, as you would expect
with today's technology.
Lo and behold ... after making a few normal passes with the spray
pattern to vertical, I changed the spray pattern to horizontal and the
spray immediately came out milky/cloudy on the surface of the piece.
(Obviously a _moisture related_ phenomenon - most likely due to the
expansion of the compressed gas changing the relative temperature
(PV=nRT) of the different nozzle passages, then reacting with the hot
Didn't last long, but my initial reaction, and remembering this thread,
was WTF?? ;)
This JUST happened to me? It is the oddest thing! I have never seen this
happen before. I had stained my fireplace, waited a few days...then put on
the polyurethane and it streaked it white...as if I had let water sit on i
t or something. Did anyone ever give you a reason why this happened? I ha
ve used the exact same polyurethane before and the product was great. I am
so confused...hence I googled to see if anyone else has had this problem.
Let me know if you have any answers.
On 10/21/2015 7:27 PM, email@example.com wrote:
I had this problem with a table top, The way I fixed it was to sand the
top down to nearly bare wood, wipe it good with mineral spirts, and let
dry for several days. Then used a colored (pecan) varnish to finish the
table. I have the first coat of varnish on the table, it has been
drying for a couple days with no white specks
I beleive that some thing in the wood, stain and the clear varnish was
being extracted to create the whiteness. I don't know it was the Minwax
varnish, Minwax stain, or some thing coming out of the wood, or a
combination of the three.
On 10/21/2015 7:27 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
well, it's fast drying. So it has no retarder, or has a lot of driers
Generally is sounds like a humidity problem. Too high to use a fast
drying product. When the humidity is high, a retarder is generally used.
If you use a fast drying product, you get a haze.
On 10/22/2015 12:02 PM, email@example.com wrote:
A long time ago, I sprayed regularly (lacquer (automotive) , dope
(airplanes) imron (airplanes (both models and full size), buses, some
cars) ) . Both for myself and for other people. Up here in the North
East when it gets humid, I would have problems with hazing. So a little
retarder would allow it to slow the drying process, and not fully trap
the humidity into the finish.
Without knowing the chemistry of it, I assumed it was :
By slow drying it would get pushed out in the gassing off process of drying.
The retarder idea came from the supply shop I used to get all my paints
I agree that this does not sound like a moisture issue to me. I have
had various woods react to finishes which was caused by the internal
oils of the wood reacting with the finish. I've seen many different
types of reaction, so that would probably be my first guess with no
I would do a couple of things - I would try the finish on a completely
different piece of wood - a different type of wood. What is the result
of that test?
I would try to find out exactly what your piece of wood really is. Teak
is a wood that is often mis-identified. Monkeypod is often called Teak
for example, and it's not.
I'd try applying a sealing coat of shellac to a scrap of the wood and
then apply your finish. Any difference? If so, I'd go back to the
notion that it may be internal oils. Very well dried woods can and will
still weep oils out when a finish is applied. Shellac is a very good
universal sealing to deal with this.
Get back with your results...
On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 1:45:27 PM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:
I think you missed the joke.
This thread was originally started in 2009, thus the wood should have
dried out by now. ;-)
(Google Groups seems to have a habit of having threads that are extremely
old suddenly pop up again. I see in it a.h.r quite often. I think it might
have something to do with web forums that are "mirroring" usenet. Someone
on a forum finds an old thread via a search, they respond and suddenly
the thread becomes active again. Since GG and the forums are "putting and
taking" from usenet, the threads show up everywhere. In GG it's evident
that it's an old thread because the date is prominently displayed. I can't
speak to newsreader apps or web based forms. Maybe it's not that easy to
see that it is a really old (and probably dead) thread.)
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.