Minwax fast drying polyurethane dries to white haze

Purchased last fall, opened yesterday. Stirred as usual, looked ok. Applied with foam brush on test piece of medium pored teak-like wood. Set aside at room temperature and it immediately starts to look like I coated the wood in white soap. What the hey. After a couple hours no change. Almost looks like I painted the wood with white lead.
I've used this produce before without problems, but it "might" be some kind of reaction with the wood. The wood was purchased at a farm sale in a batch of other hard woods that could have been over 30 years old. Some mahogany and what I thought was teak but I can't imagine what the heck happened.
Maybe return the can to the store and try another batch.
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bw wrote:

Could there be moisture in the sample wood???
P D Q
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bw wrote:

Could there be moisture in the sample wood???
P D Q ----------------------------------------------- Doubt it, it's been very dry around here this winter. Wood stored on high rack in garage. Test piece was sanded as usual along the grain. Wood does "feel" moist or greasy to touch. It might be that I'm not that experienced with tropical wood.
Tested another piece with mineral oil and it really looks good so I'll skip the poly.
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This sound like blush for sure which is moisture captured in the finish before it has a chance to evaporate. I've only seen it with lacquer but maybe this "fast dry" is acting like lacquer and skinning over very fast, not allowing the moisture to evaoprate. With lacquer we add a retarder to slow the skinning to allow the moisture to escape. Typically only seen when you have high humidity.
A few possibilities are: - Moisture in material. I guess unlikely if this was the first time it was ever opened. - Shelf life problem and something went bad in the can. - High moisture content in the wood.
I am not familiar with this product. Is it water based? If it is oil based, maybe try thinning it with some mineral spirits to maybe increase the open time to let the moisture escape. If water based, is there a thinner you can use, maybe flowtrol or something? Also, is this semi-gloss or satin? Those sheen killers are just white paint pigment so maybe somehow it got out of balance and you got all of it in one coat.

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This sound like blush for sure which is moisture captured in the finish before it has a chance to evaporate. I've only seen it with lacquer but maybe this "fast dry" is acting like lacquer and skinning over very fast, not allowing the moisture to evaoprate. With lacquer we add a retarder to slow the skinning to allow the moisture to escape. Typically only seen when you have high humidity.
A few possibilities are: - Moisture in material. I guess unlikely if this was the first time it was ever opened. - Shelf life problem and something went bad in the can. - High moisture content in the wood.
I am not familiar with this product. Is it water based? If it is oil based, maybe try thinning it with some mineral spirits to maybe increase the open time to let the moisture escape. If water based, is there a thinner you can use, maybe flowtrol or something? Also, is this semi-gloss or satin? Those sheen killers are just white paint pigment so maybe somehow it got out of balance and you got all of it in one coat.
Oil based, satin. It's a quart can. Now that I think about it, while I stirred the can to mix the bottom layer for a while I looked at the lid and noticed it had the white soapy color, so then I touched the white with the foam brush first to see what it would do. Some of the white was already soaked in the brush when I dipped it in the main can.
I ended up sanding the white off and trying something else. Now I'll take more time mixing, I didn't know that the sheen killers were white pigment.
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As usual, Sr. Sonoma is on his game. FWIW, I agree.

Actually, the shine killers that break the reflectivity are usually some type of silica, flat ground to the manufacturer's specs.
These will easily collect on the bottom of the can if the material is old, or in my experience, been exposed to a lot of different temp changes. (For example, here we have had some days lately where the overnight temp was 35 - 40 degrees different from the day temps).
Do yourself a favor. Go to the hardware store and buy yourself a paint stirring gizmo with the spiral configuration on the end. Put that on the end of your drill and stir your material, no matter what it is, for at least three minutes in a quart sized can. More for a gallon, even more for a five gallon.
Don't whip any air into your material when you are stirring. Air will make bubble in your finish, even after application. A low mix speed works fine. When the semi gloss, satin clear coat is properly mixed it will look like clear amber in the can. Some clear flats look a bit cloudy, but consistent. Never white.
Robert
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Actually, the shine killers that break the reflectivity are usually some type of silica, flat ground to the manufacturer's specs.
These will easily collect on the bottom of the can if the material is old, or in my experience, been exposed to a lot of different temp changes. (For example, here we have had some days lately where the overnight temp was 35 - 40 degrees different from the day temps).
Do yourself a favor. Go to the hardware store and buy yourself a paint stirring gizmo with the spiral configuration on the end. Put that on the end of your drill and stir your material, no matter what it is, for at least three minutes in a quart sized can. More for a gallon, even more for a five gallon.
Don't whip any air into your material when you are stirring. Air will make bubble in your finish, even after application. A low mix speed works fine. When the semi gloss, satin clear coat is properly mixed it will look like clear amber in the can. Some clear flats look a bit cloudy, but consistent. Never white.
Robert
Excellent !! I do have a paint mixer bit, but it seemed aggressive for a quart of poly. My work area is a partially heated enclosed porch, the temp was lower than RT. My poly experience had been with "gloss" or "stain" and used right after purchase. Now I'm confident that poor mixing was my problem. Thanks for responding.
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replying to bw, frustrated refinisher wrote: Hello, I know this is an old post but I'm having the same kind of problem. I've been refinishing a bathroom vanity, 3 pieces, and thought I was on my last coat of Oil Fast Drying by Minwax.semi-gloss but I got alot of bubbles even though I was doing all of the correct steps. I used Oil Zar stain. Anyway, when I lightly sanded w/220, everything was covered with sanding residue which I vacuumed, wiped w/dry microfiber cloth, then Kleen Green odorless mineral spirits but still looked greyish. I googled @ the MS and saw alot of complaints @it so I got the other Kleen OMS & wiped with microfiber cloth. Still looked the same when OMS dried. I went ahead & slightly thinned poly w/OMS. Minimal bubbles but it dried with a milk finish that looks like its under this last coat. I had already 2 coats unthinned & didn"t have a problem except for bubbles, no residue. I didnt have this problem in MB but I did all the doors, drawers,mirrors & light strip in my finished basement. I don't remember if it rained that day. Everything was dry but I did use a different brush this time that had been used before on walls, waterbased, but the first brush was used the same way & cleaned the same way. I presoaked the brush this time in OMS, something I picked up reading all these sites. Do I have to sand it all off? I've tried the heat gun but didn't see much difference & that was maybe 4 days ago & I keep checking it & it's not going away. The Zar oil stain is merlot, so the milkyness really stands out. I'm a perfectionist so I can't just leave it like this!!! Some posts say just put another coat on & that will make it go away, but I'm worried it'll just be more I have to remove. I bought a new Wooster Silver Tipped brush made for oil as was the other brush I used. I'm sorry this is so long but wanted to give all the info I could. Also, slowly stirred poly & tried to go slow & not overbrush, but has to tip off because of bubbles. Thank you very much in advance!!! PS I've refinished several pieces before & never had this problem.
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replying to frustrated refinisher, frustrated refinisher wrote: Also lots of detail/moldings so not looking foward to resanding the 3piece vanity...Thanks again!!
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replying to frustrated refinisher, frustrated refinisher wrote: Just went down & tried wiping doors, etc. w/acetone & w/alot of effort it seems to help, but starting to re-grey in areas. I'll go down & check on them tomorrow to see if it worked or have to get denatured alcohol?? Also I can still see little rings everywhere where there were bubbles that I sanded smooth. How do I fix that?I've already had sanded thru in several places & tried to touch up with Minwax marker but it wipes right off. This was a brand new vanity that wasn't stained around molding but I didn't notice in time so I've been trying to fix it ever since.. I appreciate any idea's You may have!!Thank's again!!!
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On Friday, June 9, 2017 at 10:44:06 PM UTC-4, frustrated refinisher wrote:

Here's an idea:
Stay away from Minwax products.
Having said that, I do use their Wipe-On Poly, but that's about it.
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I had the exact same thing happen to me when finishing three computer desks. My first coat went fine but it "fogged" white during the second coat. Even though it was temperate and dry inside, the temperature and humidity outside was high and apparently some of the moisture seeped into the poly. I ended up dipping the desktops to remove the poly and recoating a week later and they came out fine.
`Casper
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Last winter I had the same situation with Krylon sprays. I had a few small projects and decided to spray bomb them with clear over Minwax water base stain. The boxes I wanted to spray were a week dry but both Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear & Trilpe-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze both fogger up something terrible after following the directions to the letter. Through e-mail communication the conclusion was humidity. I live in Florida which is notorious for humidity but it was winter so I'd say it was about 40 to 50%, which is considered low for here. The plus side worth noting are the people at Krylon were very apologetic and even offered to send me two new cans, which I guess I can still get but for small projects I'll stick with Rust-Oleum Lacquer High Luster, which I never had a problem with even in summer... Ray,
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On Friday, February 13, 2009 12:00:36 PM UTC-6, bw wrote:


nd


eak

I am having a similar problem with the same product. The first time I used it the room came out beautiful. The next room I did a week later is dull. I used a foam brush both times. I went and bought another can and went over it to get the sheen. Waited a week and did another room and the same problem again! Just no sheen at all! Maybe I have to buy small cans, so it's a new can each time. Depressing! I still have 4 rooms and a landing to go. I was wondering if I shouldn't be wiping my brush on the side of th e can as I go? I just don't understand!
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Moisture problem? In the can, or brush, or humidity? john
wrote in message
On Friday, February 13, 2009 12:00:36 PM UTC-6, bw wrote:

I am having a similar problem with the same product. The first time I used it the room came out beautiful. The next room I did a week later is dull. I used a foam brush both times. I went and bought another can and went over it to get the sheen. Waited a week and did another room and the same problem again! Just no sheen at all! Maybe I have to buy small cans, so it's a new can each time. Depressing! I still have 4 rooms and a landing to go. I was wondering if I shouldn't be wiping my brush on the side of the can as I go? I just don't understand!
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wrote:

I wonder if the OP figured out the problem sometime in the last 5 years?
--
Jim in NC




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On Saturday, April 26, 2014 8:17:08 PM UTC-5, Morgans wrote:

Good info to have, though, in case this ever comes up, which apparently it does from time to time.
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On 4/27/2014 5:43 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:

Recently in particular, if one sees a thread appear in your newsreader already bearing the RE: you can almost bet it's an ancient one that came to life from google...
I've come to just ignore 'em entirely unless/until somebody makes a new comment that interests.
Here, just in passing, as Michael notes in his response, there is something of interest. My experience w/ the Minwax fast dry and blended poly's is I won't touch 'em going forward.
I've used the traditional Minwax oil stains and rubbing oil products with great success for 30+ yr as well as their early conventional poly's (altho I don't use poly much at all) and recommend them highly. The newer "labor saving" products I think are misguided and not worth bringing home.
$0.02, imo, ymmv, etc., etc., etc., ...
--



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On 4/27/2014 9:05 AM, dpb wrote:

My biggest clue is if the OP of the RE thread is not recognized.
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On Friday, February 13, 2009 12:00:36 PM UTC-6, bw wrote:

I am having a similar problem with the same product. The first time I used it the room came out beautiful. The next room I did a week later is dull. I used a foam brush both times. I went and bought another can and went over it to get the sheen. Waited a week and did another room and the same problem again! Just no sheen at all! Maybe I have to buy small cans, so it's a new can each time. Depressing! I still have 4 rooms and a landing to go. I was wondering if I shouldn't be wiping my brush on the side of the can as I go? I just don't understand!
I didin't see it in any of the posts but you aren't by any chance using satin or flat?
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