Can you thin Minwax Polyurethane?

I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint thinner and I get congeal mixtures???

How do you thin Minwax Polyurethane? Thanks

Reply to
Geroge Barns
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follow the directions on the can?

Reply to
bridger

You should be able to thin up to 30% (using mineral spirits)...but that's it. Still, I'd try it, test it, let it dry and see how it does.

Good luck Rob

Reply to
Rob Stokes

Did you get a can of water based poly? That is what the reaction sounds like. I don't know if Minwax makes water base, but...

Mineral spirits should be the preferred option. I can't recall how much you can thin it. The ratio is probably listed on the can. That being said, I've thinned poly by 50% or more to get a mixture that will soak deep into the wood. It works very well for hardening pine desktops.

Tim Douglass

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Reply to
Tim Douglass

Geroge Barns wrote in news:K2igd.72$ snipped-for-privacy@fe61.usenetserver.com:

Most of the solids are already in a lump in the bottom of the can, until you stir them in carefully, without introducing air into the mix.

Stir completely, for about 4 minutes, before starting to thin. And don't try to work with material that's too cold, either. Check the label, and maybe store the cans inside?

Patriarch

Reply to
patriarch

The can says not to thin it though.

dwhite

Reply to
Dan White

I did not mixed the Polyurethane as I got it dirt cheap at an estate sales. When I opened the lid there is a thin harden layer, I add about 5% volume minerals spirit and cover it for 24 hrs. Hopping the minerals sprit will melt it. The next day I got congeal mixture, below the harden top layer!

There are not instruction of thinning, but cleaning with either minerals spirit or paint thinner. The instruction printed on the can "Do Not Shake" in bold letter, "Stir slowly......" why?

Thanks

Reply to
Geroge Barns

That was what I thought!

Reply to
Geroge Barns

snip

So as to not induce air bubbles in the poly. Shaking will produce small air bubbles that will mess up your finish.

Thunder

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Reply to
Rolling Thunder

What used to be my favorite mix (until I started using Waterlox) 1/3 minwax poly, 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 watco oil. If you are just going to thin to a wipeable consistancy, only go about 30% on the mineral spirits. Otherwise, you will need to use alot of coats to build up the material. Or get smart and use Waterlox like I do SH

Reply to
Slowhand

May just be too old to be worth messing with. I incurred my Father-In-Law's wrath when I cleaned out the old paints and stuff from his shop. Some of those cans (half full) were more than 50 years old! I actually had to send some of it off to the hazardous waste facility because it was lead based.

Basically, if it is older than a year or so just chuck it and buy new.

Tim Douglass

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Reply to
Tim Douglass

Polyurethane is a reactive finish. It cures by reacting with the oxygen in the air. Once it has reacted it can not be redissolved.

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Reply to
Nova

snipped-for-privacy@sherwin.com They have been very helpful.

Dave

Reply to
TeamCasa

On Fri, 29 Oct 2004 09:31:55 -0700, "Slowhand" What used to be my favorite mix (until I started using Waterlox) 1/3 minwax

Reply to
Geroge Barns

Thanks, I was at HD earlier and was looking at the various Minwax's products and I pick up their catalogs looking for someone there to talk to on my projects.

Thanks again.

Reply to
Geroge Barns

It is a tung oil based finish. You can buy online at

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or
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carries it too I believe. I bought my last quart at Woodcraft. SH

Reply to
Slowhand

"Slowhand" > thinner and

What is it you like about Waterlox? I've heard good things about it, but would value your opinion.

Dan White: I've read that finish manufacturers have reduced VOCs as ordered by the feds, and in order to comply, must label the can not to thin, since that would raise the VOCs and therefore, supposedly, air pollution.

Reply to
Gary DeWitt

Thanks, Gary. I have to get started on my own poly project. I'm starting with the oil based Minwax though. I've got hard maple butcher block and am going to try some linseed oil at first, followed by maybe 3 coats of thinned gloss poly, finishing with a coat of maybe slightly thinned satin poly.

dwhite

Reply to
Dan White

Have you try Minwax waterbase polyurethane, are they water resistance (ie, water resistance, after it dry)?

I check HD today they have Minwax for outdoor, can you comment that too? By the way what is VOCs?

Reply to
Geroge Barns

Reply to
Jim Behning

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