| >Can Floetrol be added to polyurethane?
| It would help if you said what Floetrol is !!!
It's an additive for acrylic (water base) paint
to slow the drying time, causing the brush strokes
to settle out better. It's good for things like painting
louvre doors, where the paint may start to set up
before an area is finished.
Thanks. If it's for water based paints, it wont work on polyurethane.
Many years ago, I brush painted a truck with Rustoleum (oil base) and
used some similar product but it was made for oil based paints. It
worked quite well. I think it was called Penetrol. Dont know if they
still sell it, or if it would work on poly.... The best advice, "If in
doubt, call the manufacturer".
| Thanks. If it's for water based paints, it wont work on polyurethane.
No, but sometimes people refer to things like
Varathane as water-base polyurethane. Though
that stuff dries very smoothly. For that reason
I was hesitant to answer the OP. It sounds like
they don't know what they're asking about and/or
couldn't be bothered to explain it.
| Many years ago, I brush painted a truck with Rustoleum (oil base) and
| used some similar product but it was made for oil based paints. It
| worked quite well. I think it was called Penetrol. Dont know if they
| still sell it, or if it would work on poly.... The best advice, "If in
| doubt, call the manufacturer".
They still sell it. I used it for years with interior oil
trim paint. It was great. But it was radically changed
with the move to accomodate EPA fume regulations
and is no longer the same product. I haven't tried
the new version. I doubt it's any good. I've yet to
see an oil paint that meets the EPA standards that
isn't junk. So I'm guessing that Penetrol is a similar
case. Only some brands in quarts, which are exempt,
are worth using. I think Rustoleum is still good, but
I've never actually used it very much. Sherwin Williams
quarts are the only brand I currently know of that I'm
sure are still good. (Benjamin Moore downgraded their
whole line so that they could conform while still selling
gallons. As a result, they no longer make any good oil
paints. SW took the approach of eliminating gallons
in order to keep making the same good paint. Pratt
and Lambert did the same. But they've now been
bought by SW and seem to be disappearing.)
I once brush-painted my own pickup with One Shot
sign lettering enamel. Beautiful stuff that dried perfectly
smooth and stayed tough. It was in a class of its own;
a specialized commercial paint. But that, also, got
I never knew they made it as a water base. Actually, I dont know how it
can be called "polyurethane" if it's water based. I though that
polyurethane means it's in a class of it's own, but closer to an oil
I recall first learning about polyurethane in the early 1970s, and was
told it was superior to the old varnish. I also heard it was similar to
an epoxy coating. I never really questioned any of that, I just tried it
and liked it. I have not used any of that sort of thing in years. THese
days, moldings come pre-finished, and I use that. I was never a big fan
of anything that involves using a paint brush. I did make some patio
tables though and used tung oil, which I like the look, it's durable
outdoors, and just gets wiped on.
On 01/01/2016 8:28 AM, email@example.com wrote:
Need to read up...the 'polyurethane' is simply the liquified plastic
component which is included in the carrier for application. Initially,
all were oil-based, yes, but EPA (and CA) have fixed that by
introduction of such strict VOC limitations that couldn't be met other
than by eliminating the hydrocarbons (the oil carrier, iow).
Oil-based polyurethanes are elastic resins in liquid form, mainly
comprise of acids derived from vegetable oil, nitrogen-based chemical
amalgams, and isocyanates, suspended in mineral spirits. As noted
above, restrictions on emissions has led to water-based polyurethane
products, basically the suspension of polyurethane in water. Needless
to say, there's some significant alchemy going on inside the can with
surfactants and the like to create a miscible mixture, but that's the
A polyurethane coating cures when some of its chemical elements form
powerful links with one another after reacting with atmospheric oxygen
(hence the "poly" as opposed to simply "urethane").
There's now a whole new class of "water-based oil-modified" which are
low VOC-compliant, water-cleanup but with the characteristic amber color
of oil-based as opposed to the clear water-based.
"Superior" is pretty generic term; as with most any product they have
strengths and weaknesses and specific applications where they're the
cat's meow and others, 'not so much'.
The wiping varnishes (of which the tung oil products are one) are indeed
very easy to apply, but they're one of the least durable of all
finishes. They have the advantage they're easy to repair/restore by
Two kinds of consumer poly:
1. oil base which is a combination of alkyd and polyurethane resins.
2. water base which is a combination of acrylic and polyurethane resins.
The oil base is far superior. The only advantage I can see to the water
base - besides the water clean up - is that it colors the wood very little.
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