Unfinished hardwood floor

The woman who used to live here never cleaned the floor, she'd just vacuum and apply Murphy's Oil. This 20+ y/o hardwood floor isn't in very good shape. There are marks, scratches and discolorations all over and I made things even worse by moping it with a Lysol solution (trying to sanitize it) and now I have some of the floor with some luster from all those years of Murphy's oil and a very visible part of it it's dull and a shade or two lighter because of my bright Lysol idea...

Because of its location, I can't hide the mess with an area rug and finishing the floor isn't an option right now so I need to know:

How do I effectively clean this floor without damaging it?

How do hide the discolorations caused by doors rubbing against the floor?

Is there a product I can use on both the part I "treated" with Lysol and the rest of the floor so that the whole floor looks the same color and, hopefully, will add some luster as well?

Reply to
Turandot
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I agre with what the other poster said about sanding the floor down and refinishing it well with a satin-finish polyurethane finish followed by waxing. We have hardwood floors and that's what we did.

Reply to
Melinda Meahan - take out TRAS

Clean a wooden floor with Murphy's Oil soap, following the manufacturer's directions. If an area won't clean well, you could try a rag dampened with mineral spirits (be careful how to dispose the rag). I would rinse the floor well, being careful not to allow the floor to remain wet for too long. Water can damage wood if the wood is damp for too long. If the rinse water is soapy, rinse again. There is a product called BriWax that comes in various colors--it will cover light scratches, clean, and wax in one step, but I would still clean the floor first using an oil soap. As an alternative to the BriWax, you could use the proper color of shoe polish to hide the scratches, then follow up with Johnson's Paste Wax (or Butcher's Wax), and buff with an old clean terry cotton towel. An electric auto-polisher fitted with a terry bonnet may get the luster you want.

Reply to
Phisherman

We have a similar floor in our house, about 40 years old and in need of refinishing, but that's not very likely. Ours is very dull and scratched, but when I want it to brighten it up I use Wood Preen (made by Kiwi Brands Inc out of Pennsylvania), which is a wood cleaner/protector/wax. I think the product has been around for a very long time, but it is still available (if you can't find it, let me know!). It has color in it, so it might blend the light and dark areas of the floor and give them some luster. It takes some elbow grease, though. Basically you apply it with a mop or soft cloth to small areas at a time, rub it in, then buff with a clean cloth or a floor buffer. Both my Mom and my Mom-in-law had floor buffers in their basements from the 1950s; they look like a small upright vacuum only they have removable round brushes and "polishing pads" on the bottom. That has worked fairly well for getting some shine to the floors following the Wood Preen application. If you can't find a buffer, you can just use a cloth and elbow grease....). I found Murphy's, etc. to make them dull but clean. Someone else suggested bowling alley wax but I would think that would make them slippery. I also recently tried "Brite" floor cleaner and that cleaned them well and seemed to give them a nice shine (it is what I use on my linoleum, too). But it did make them slippery and the luster didn't last very long. Be careful that you don't get drops or spray when you squirt it, because it shows up when you are done if it is not on there evenly. Hope it works. If you find another good solution, let me know!

-Holly

. Turandot wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@News.CIS.DFN.DE...

Reply to
I & H Prees

white spirit

wood soap scrub, sanding, white spirit scrub

a few coats of a darker coloured varnish like a mahogany will even it out and hide some discolourations and make it shine but when the day comes to refinish then it's more work to get off...unless you're selling, that's what my floor was like when I bought this place. Under the dark varnish was very light parquet with stains.

Reply to
Sweep

Hi, I would say you need to refinish your floor. There's a possibility you could stain your floor, so as to disquise or blend the marks with color. You would have to test a closet or area that's not too visible, but, certainly the outcome would have a rustic appearance. Never, I mean never, use Murphys' on any floor. You will either discolor or damage the finish if you still have one. We do not use any solvents, turpentine, or vinegar(acid), any longer to clean hardwood floors. If you do, you had better rinse it and wipe it up immediately. Water too, is not hardwood floor friendly. The best hardwood cleaner available is made by Bona Kemi. It is inexpensive and will not damage your floor. Remember that hardwood floors add direct value to your home, unlike carpet or many other floorcoverings. Also, flooring is one of the largest investments for your home. Be Good, Wally

Reply to
Wally/FloorUSA

Sorry but I missed the original post on this subject.

I'm chiming in only because of the diversity of responses I have seen to whatever the original question was.

I have also seen a comment or two by those in the wood floor industry that actually made me cringe when I read them.

There are only two basic types of floor finishes and all finishes fall under these two categories.

They are, Surface finishes, and Penetrating finishes.

Almost all of the finishes in use today fall under the Surface Finish category and include everything from wax to the newer polyurethane finishes. Shellac, Varnish, Lacquer, etc. are all surface finishes.

Surface finishes are just that, a thin film protectant OVER the wood surface, that will wear off, flake off, peel off, become thin, and sometimes even crackle or alligator if applied too heavily.

The other type of finish is a penetrant, such as good quality penetrating oil or tung oil. These types of finishes are absorbed into the wood and actually make the wood harder.

Back when I was a youngster (and before), most commercial building with hardwood floors used nothing but penetrating type oils, because they clean up easily and do not wear off to the point the wood becomes quickly damaged in high traffic areas. Oiled floors have a more rustic appearance to them than glossy finished floors, but oil floors can be buffed to a nice satin finish if one wants to put that much work into them.

My first two houses used the conventional Surface Finish techniques. I had to be very careful to protect this wood finish, especially around my desk and other high use areas. Even polyurethane will wear off very quickly if you spend much time sitting at a desk in a home office. Even with continual monthly waxing, raising 4 kids, 5 dogs and a managerie of other animals, surface finishes were an expensive nightmare to keep up.

Before I moved into an older but modern home, the first thing I did was have that nice new surface finish sanded off and had all of the floors heavily oiled with tung oil. Then about once every three years after that, we would deep clean the floors and apply another coat of tung oil onto them while the kids were away at camp or elsewhere.

After the second treatment of oil, we could then simply mop our floors like they were linoleum or vinyl without fear of ever hurting them. An animal may use a throw rug as a waste station and it would go unnoticed, yet when discovered, there was NEVER a black mark left behind as evidence of their watering the carpet.

Some times the old ways are better! I will NEVER have a bothersome surface finished floor again. An oiled floor is the only way to go, if you want a maintenance free, easy care floor, that looks great year in and year out. Even at the most used door in the house!

TTUL Gary

Reply to
Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr.

I've never heard of Tung oil. Does it colour or darken the wood? How do you 'deep clean' a wooden floor?

Reply to
Dawn

One more bit of information about the Wood Preen. It comes in light, medium and dark colors, I think. It also contains naptha (like mineral spirits) as well as a wax so it might get rid of buildup from previous applications. Our parents didn't sand and refinish their floors. They cleaned and waxed them.

-Holly

Reply to
I & H Prees

Well written post. Just one quibble. Penetrating finishes do not make the wood noticeably harder. I'm going by the results of tests by some nationally recognized experts in the field.

Reply to
Baron

Hear hear! Twenty years ago, I house-sat for my sister and her husband while they vacationed in Europe. I had to keep my motorcycle in the living room because they forgot to tell me where they kept the garage-door opener.

When they got back they made a couple of snobby remarks about the oil spots, but within a year she had oiled the whole carpet. It's been trouble-free ever since.

Reply to
Lloyd Randall

Reply to
William Brown

Hi Dawn

Tung oil as been around for centuries, it is an oil that dries like Danish Oil or Linseed Oil. An example of a non-drying oil would be Lemon Oil. For floor finishing, you only want to use an oil that dries.

Today you can get penetrating oils, like Tung Oil, in almost every shade imaginable and perfectly clear non-yellowing as well.

New floors require sanding and cleaning before being sealed with a penetrating oil, TSP is good for this. But the deep cleaning I was referring to was doing a really bang up cleaning job on the floor before reoiling, so as not to harded dirt into the new finish. I usually use mineral spirits on the whole floor, and sometimes turpentine or paint thinner in the main walk areas to get them really clean. Then I follow up with a rinse of hot water and mild dish detergent like Ivory. In fact, that's what we use for everyday cleaning of the floors, is dish detergent and hot water.

Because penetrating oils do dry, you can build them up and get a glossy shine, but it doesn't look as natural as the normal satin finish.

TTUL Gary

Reply to
Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr.

Hi Baron

Pine and fir, softwoods, were the most common flooring material used in pre 1900's buildings, warehouses, stores, shops and saloons.

Unfinished pine or fir for that matter will not last very long in a high traffic area. But oiled wood lasts for centuries without much wear if it is maintained properly by reoiling every year in these instances.

Whether it is technically correct to say, it makes the wood harder, may be a misstatement.

The oil fills the pores of the wood, dries and as such, makes MORE surface to have to wear away.

So perhaps it literally does not make the wood itself harder, but it does fill in the pores making the wood less susceptable to wear and damage.

A sponge soaked in cement and allowed to cure will wear a lot longer than the original sponge, who's properties never physically changed. But I would rather be hit with a regular sponge, than one impregnated with concrete, because the impact would be much harder on my old bean.

TTUL Gary

Reply to
Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr.

Hi Bill

Duraseal is still around, great stuff! They make an excellent penetrating oil also, which is the brand I used on my last house, initially for the first two coats, then switched to Waterlox for the last coat and subsequent touch ups.

TTUL Gary

Reply to
Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr.

Thank you so much for the great advice you provided, Gary. I've printed every message you posted to this thread. An oiled floor would go much better with the style and character of our house than a surface finished floor. Many of my guests like the "rustic" look of this floor, discolorations and all, and have been telling me to leave it alone but I will go ahead and follow your advice. I like the feel and appearance of oiled floors and am sure they fair better in dry weather conditions. Thanks again.

Also, many thanks to Holly, William Brown and Phisherman.

Reply to
Turandot

Your Welcome!

TTUL Gary

Turandot verbositized:

Reply to
Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr.

I am with you now. It's the stuff we do the wooden window sills with every year.

Thanks Gary. Lovely post again!

Reply to
Dawn

Careful, Honey. I'm not saying Gary is the gigolo who led Cindi astray, but she did she he was a smooth talker. Is it just a coincidence that Gary uses tung oil?

Reply to
Barbecue Bob

Gary and Cindi? I don't believe a word. You are trying to blacken dear Gary's name in the hope Dawn will stop pestering him and then you can try sweet talking her.

Reply to
Mrs Bonk

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