The woman who used to live here never cleaned the floor, she'd just vacuum and
apply Murphy's Oil. This 20+ y/o hardwood floor isn't in very good shape. There
are marks, scratches and discolorations all over and I made things even worse by
moping it with a Lysol solution (trying to sanitize it) and now I have some of
floor with some luster from all those years of Murphy's oil and a very visible
part of it it's dull and a shade or two lighter because of my bright Lysol
Because of its location, I can't hide the mess with an area rug and finishing
floor isn't an option right now so I need to know:
How do I effectively clean this floor without damaging it?
How do hide the discolorations caused by doors rubbing against the floor?
Is there a product I can use on both the part I "treated" with Lysol and the
of the floor so that the whole floor looks the same color and, hopefully, will
some luster as well?
Sorry but I missed the original post on this subject.
I'm chiming in only because of the diversity of responses I have seen
to whatever the original question was.
I have also seen a comment or two by those in the wood floor industry
that actually made me cringe when I read them.
There are only two basic types of floor finishes and all finishes fall
under these two categories.
They are, Surface finishes, and Penetrating finishes.
Almost all of the finishes in use today fall under the Surface Finish
category and include everything from wax to the newer polyurethane
finishes. Shellac, Varnish, Lacquer, etc. are all surface finishes.
Surface finishes are just that, a thin film protectant OVER the wood
surface, that will wear off, flake off, peel off, become thin, and
sometimes even crackle or alligator if applied too heavily.
The other type of finish is a penetrant, such as good quality
penetrating oil or tung oil. These types of finishes are absorbed
into the wood and actually make the wood harder.
Back when I was a youngster (and before), most commercial building
with hardwood floors used nothing but penetrating type oils, because
they clean up easily and do not wear off to the point the wood becomes
quickly damaged in high traffic areas.
Oiled floors have a more rustic appearance to them than glossy
finished floors, but oil floors can be buffed to a nice satin finish
if one wants to put that much work into them.
My first two houses used the conventional Surface Finish techniques.
I had to be very careful to protect this wood finish, especially
around my desk and other high use areas. Even polyurethane will wear
off very quickly if you spend much time sitting at a desk in a home
Even with continual monthly waxing, raising 4 kids, 5 dogs and a
managerie of other animals, surface finishes were an expensive
nightmare to keep up.
Before I moved into an older but modern home, the first thing I did
was have that nice new surface finish sanded off and had all of the
floors heavily oiled with tung oil. Then about once every three years
after that, we would deep clean the floors and apply another coat of
tung oil onto them while the kids were away at camp or elsewhere.
After the second treatment of oil, we could then simply mop our floors
like they were linoleum or vinyl without fear of ever hurting them.
An animal may use a throw rug as a waste station and it would go
unnoticed, yet when discovered, there was NEVER a black mark left
behind as evidence of their watering the carpet.
Some times the old ways are better!
I will NEVER have a bothersome surface finished floor again. An oiled
floor is the only way to go, if you want a maintenance free, easy care
floor, that looks great year in and year out. Even at the most used
door in the house!
Tung oil as been around for centuries, it is an oil that dries like
Danish Oil or Linseed Oil.
An example of a non-drying oil would be Lemon Oil.
For floor finishing, you only want to use an oil that dries.
Today you can get penetrating oils, like Tung Oil, in almost every
shade imaginable and perfectly clear non-yellowing as well.
New floors require sanding and cleaning before being sealed with a
penetrating oil, TSP is good for this.
But the deep cleaning I was referring to was doing a really bang up
cleaning job on the floor before reoiling, so as not to harded dirt
into the new finish.
I usually use mineral spirits on the whole floor, and sometimes
turpentine or paint thinner in the main walk areas to get them really
clean. Then I follow up with a rinse of hot water and mild dish
detergent like Ivory. In fact, that's what we use for everyday
cleaning of the floors, is dish detergent and hot water.
Because penetrating oils do dry, you can build them up and get a
glossy shine, but it doesn't look as natural as the normal satin
Hi Mrs. Bonk
Everyone missed their chance a couple of years ago!
I'm remarried again, to the most wonderful gal, a cute little southern
belle whom I met on-line.
Plucked her right out of the Okra patch and drug her to the big city.
Then, I guess, turn about is fair play, she hauled me back out to the
stix, where you have to check your gas guage before going anywhere.
We now live at the foot of the Smoky Mountains. Beautiful Country!
Nope, just sitting here on the front porch with Eb & Zeek watching the
And we DID get Master Card to help simplify our hectic lives!
Trouble is, most of the local stores here only take pigs or chickens
for services rendered or products purchased.;)
The local grocer tallies up your order on the outside of a brown paper
bag, then jots it down on a little pad, one for each customer, which
he keeps in a rack by the checkout counter.;)
Since it's winter, if you bring in a log or two and drop them down in
the rack by the pot belly stove, he adds a credit to your little pad
for them. Unless of course you wake up his dog while doing so, then
his wife chases you out of the store with her broom.;)
I may have exaggerated just a tad, but not by much, hi hi.....
email@example.com (Mrs Bonk) wrote in message
Mrs. Bonk, would you please wake up and smell the whiskey? His
neighbors in Knoxville may know him as good old Gary, but in
professional circles, he's known as Phisherman, Phisher of Women.
Moonshiners get blamed because the Smoky Mountains are so smokey and
the trees are dying. It's not our fault. It's chlorine gas.
Think about this. The last time we heard from Cindi, she was telling
Phish she was going to mix up a batch of bleach and vinegar as he
firstname.lastname@example.org (Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr.) wrote:
Are you the one who taught Cindi to call me that? When she came begging
me for a job, I told her she'd have to clean up her act. She's a lot
more refined than she used to be.
Speaking of refined, we use the finest grade flax oil in our
award-winning chef's salad. In the event of an oil spill, we throw down
sawdust, which is subsequently spread in the dining room, then swept up.
This maintains a beautiful oil finish and keeps the floor clean enough
to eat from.
Barbecue Bob serving family-style roast bunny
at convenient restaurants
Pine and fir, softwoods, were the most common flooring material used
in pre 1900's buildings, warehouses, stores, shops and saloons.
Unfinished pine or fir for that matter will not last very long in a
high traffic area. But oiled wood lasts for centuries without much
wear if it is maintained properly by reoiling every year in these
Whether it is technically correct to say, it makes the wood harder,
may be a misstatement.
The oil fills the pores of the wood, dries and as such, makes MORE
surface to have to wear away.
So perhaps it literally does not make the wood itself harder, but it
does fill in the pores making the wood less susceptable to wear and
A sponge soaked in cement and allowed to cure will wear a lot longer
than the original sponge, who's properties never physically changed.
But I would rather be hit with a regular sponge, than one impregnated
with concrete, because the impact would be much harder on my old bean.
email@example.com (Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr.) wrote:
Hear hear! Twenty years ago, I house-sat for my sister and her husband
while they vacationed in Europe. I had to keep my motorcycle in the
living room because they forgot to tell me where they kept the
When they got back they made a couple of snobby remarks about the oil
spots, but within a year she had oiled the whole carpet. It's been
trouble-free ever since.
I agree with almost everything you have said. We have an old home, and
over the years I have refinished almost all of the hardwood floors, one
or two rooms at a time (a better plan would have been to do the whole
house before moving in). The first room I put polyurethane on, and it
has not held up well at all. That was perhaps 25 years ago and maybe
more modern polyurethanes last better, but still that room will have to
be redone. I did use a waterbased urethane on the stairs, as it was
recommended as lasting and not being slippery, and it has held up well
for about five years. In the remaining rooms I used the Duraseal
penetrating finish, which comes in different hues, and it has worked
really well. I initially got it because the place I rented the sander
also sold this finish. That place is now out of business, and it is
hard to find the Duraseal products (I think they like to sell to the
trade, rather than the public), but if you can find that product it is
really worth the search, and the penetrating finish seems to last and
look good. They do recommend waxing for additional protection and looks.
Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr. wrote:
SPAMBLOCK NOTICE! To reply to me, delete the h from apkh.net, if it is
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