Perhaps not that bad but you do not have to register 99% of most any
products to get warranty work, you only need proof of purchase. Mostly
registration helps to speed the process should work need to be done
Exactly and for a few of us that is the case. But if a contractor walks
in to buy a replacement drill than he needs NOW and where time is money,
the extra steps and time of getting a replacement part is simply
ignored. When you need a part NOW waiting for an exchange is not going
to factor in.
From what I understand you have to send the parts/tool to a repair
facility and wait for the return shipment. If time is on your side, no
Yep. A friend went through the process after the cells died in a few
months after purchase. He had to find a repair shop in our semi-remote
area (90 mile round trip) and drop off the batteries. After a 3 week
wait he went to pick them up. The 'warranty' is legit, but a pain to
At least some packs use the same technology as is found in laptop battery
packs. Each cell is tested individually during the charging process and the
packs internal chip decides if it will be getting a voltage during the next
charging pulse. They equalize the weak cells and bring them up to full
strength while cutting power to cells that are full, or to cells that are
too hot during the charging process.
I have a hobby charger that charges RC packs much the same way. It has to
have the correct hookups to use the full equalizing process. Many say that
if the user does not push the cells to absolute deadness, and discharges the
whole pack right after a charge once in a while that balancing is not
needed. I'm not convinced on that one.
No doubt however one does not know what is going on in every case with
each manufacturer. The circuitry may or may not take care of voltage
I have heard it is best to not run past 80% discharge and I suspect that
is why most Li-Ion batteries have gas gauges these days. I have heard
that some packs will not allow discharge beyond a certain point.
On Tue, 2 Sep 2014 20:01:32 +0000 (UTC), email@example.com (Edward A.
Two things, the cells the rebuilders use are better than those in the
OEM tools and they will rebuild batteries that I can no longer buy.
FFOr some tools, the tools with the charger and batteries can be
cheaper, on sale, than the replacement batteries alone.
I used the Kobalt battery packs to rebuild my old NiCad packs, and they
appear to cycle through the batteries as they charge.
The same lights that are the fuel gauge blink one at a time, progressively
as a normal charge takes place. I think I also read that the charger
equalizes the batteries, also. They will not charge they are too hot, I
know. They will not charge if you fry the onboard chip circuitry.
Unfortunately, I know that to be true after a blob of hot solder dropped
onto the chip. The battery does stoop putting out juice when the demands on
it are too high. If the voltage is getting low, it will put out fairly high
amps. After the voltage gets lower, it will not put out hardly any amps
before it turns off.
I tend to charge often. If I have been using a fair amount of battery
power, I put it on charge when I quit for the night. If you believe what
you read, it does not hurt the battery in life or output to charge often, so
that works for me.
How old are your batteries? I've been getting 3-5 years out of my Li-Ion
batteries before I notice a big drop off in charging capacity. I usually
wait until the tool is slowing down or starts impacting early, so it'd be
interesting to see if your method is any different.
Admittedly, I probably did kill the 18V screwdriver batteries by using
them in the circular saw. But I've got Lithium Ion laptop batteries that
are all dieing in that same time frame.
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote
I am just now changing over, so I am not deep enough into the age curve to
have any data.
Yes, it is true that the lower amp hour batteries like are to be found in
screwdrivers and other entry level tools do not much like an extremely high
drain user like a circular saw. I am not getting any low capacity
batteries, to extend run times in drills and drivers, and to always have a
high capacity cell ready for saws and such. I am using the Kobalt 4.0 amp
hour battery as my rebuilding stock, so far. It has to be ordered online
from Lowes in many areas, but is a deal for that capacity for around 89
bucks. Much better value than any other brand I am aware of.
I did do an experiment by ordering ultra high capacity cells the next size
larger online. Extreme caution on this. The Chinese suppliers will stamp
most any capacity on a cell to make the sale. Many test out at only 15% of
the stamped capacity. Do research before buying cells by reading reviews of
someone who has bought the cells and tested the capacity.
Anyway, I order 6 cells of 4.5 amp hour cells (1860 size?) and got them, and
checked each cell's capacity on my hobby charger, and they did pretty well
averaging around 4350 milliamp hours. Put them together and used them, and
they lasted forever per charge. Then they started fading, so I took the
pack apart to check it. One cell had gone to a near complete dead short.
No problem, says I, I only used 5 of the 6 cells I ordered, so I can just
switch out the bad one. Problem is that I put the extra cell somewhere safe
and can't find it! I was using the hobby charger without the balancer, but
when I find the missing cell, I will put it back together with a charging
plug to accommodate the balancer.
By the way, do you all know that the larger capacity packs are simply a
doubled up smaller pack. They are 10 cells for the 18 to 20 volt pack,
hooked in two by five.
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