speaking of batteries

[pyotr filipivich]

Speaking of batteries

How does one go about testing to see if a second hand set of Ryobi

18v batteries are still "good"? These are the green ones, I am not sure right now what type they are (Lithium Ion, Ni-Cad, Auto-Cad, Alkaline, or Iron-Pyrite) but I am not sure if they need replacing or not. I got them, and the charger, and three tools at a thrift shop. "Guarenanteed not to rip, rot, rust bust or throw dust - thirty feet or thirty seconds provided the customer does not fool with them." {"Did you charge the batteries?" Of course I charged the batteries! "I told you not to fool with them!"

(OTOH, could be that I was over expecting how much use I could get of a pair in the circ-saw cutting oak pallets.)

But anyway, testing procedures for batteries?

Or just bite the wax tadpole and get replacements?

tschus pyotr

[krw]

Depending on your electrical competence, it may not be all that easy to test. What you need to do is somehow measure the current from the battery as you run it flat, from fully charged. Multiply the current times the time and you get the capacity. It should be somewhere close (at least 70-80%) of the advertised capacity. The problem is measuring the current.

[MOP CAP]

If they are 18 volt they are most likely Ni-Cad. If more than a year or two old they will not hold a charge for very long. It depends on how you want to use the tools. If you use them every day keep them charged. If only ocasional use anticipate when and charge. CP

[G Ross]

One way to tell the type is the way they run down. NiCads get slower and slower, Lithium Ion get minimally slower just before they shut down. My 18V Ryobis state right on the back P-104 Li Ion or P-108 Li Ion.

[pyotr filipivich]

[e-mail] on Thu, 22 Feb 2018 21:51:28 -0500 typed in rec.woodworking the following:

Ufda. That's a lot of work, in areas I'm not sure I want to take the time to learn the skills. Thanks.

[pyotr filipivich]

MOP CAP on Thu, 22 Feb 2018 19:42:50 -0800 typed in rec.woodworking the following:

Okay, - time to start saving up the pop cans, then.

[Brewster]

NiCads tend to get small shorts internally which causes them to self-discharge at a faster rate. Fully charge the batteries and measure the voltage. Wait a day or two and check the voltage again. Individual cells that are failing will drop the voltage by 1.2 volts each. If your second reading is lower by 1.2 volts or more, you probably have dead/dying cells. They can be rebuilt, but the cost savings over new batteries may not make economical sense.

-BR

[Jack]

Bite the tadpole and buy a tailed circ-saw. Buy a decent one too, as cutting up oak pallets is going to test the durability.

[pyotr filipivich]

Got a tailed circ saw. Wondering about the batteries for these. Tool gloat - chainsaw, circ saw, reciprocating saw, charger and two batteries for $32. Even if I have to replace the batteries, still a good deal. For some value of "good" I'm sure.

[pyotr filipivich]

Thanks. If I determine that the batteries are expired, I shall replace them. I lack the time, space and talent to be rebuilding batteries.

[MOP CAP]

The one tool that I have acquired in the last three years is a 20volt chain saw. It has given me more pleasure that almost any tool I have. I have a property in the country that has many oaks that are in continual need of attention. It works! Also I am in a fire zone [two major fires in the last 25 year, one across the one lane road in front of the house, the last within 300 yards]. After the last I went upto a fire line cut by a Cat and after the masticators were thru and got myself 2 cords of oak firewood. Use the 20 volt to cut 3" to 4" pieces I could stuff in the back of an Element to bring down to cut with a corded. In a few cases I cut 6" oak. It could do two cuts on one charge. Love that tool. CP

[Brewster]

I have rebuilt battery packs on my own, but a RPITA since the cells are really crammed in tight.

For rebuilding, I was referring to shops that do it (based on cell count)

i.e.

and others.

I had a set of old Milwaukee 14.4v NiCad packs rebuilt with NMH for about 70% of new price (bonus extra power/run time with the chemistry change)

-BR

[DerbyDad03]

Do you know if the OEM replacements you could have bought also took advantage of the "chemistry change" or not?

If they did, then the "bonus" was a wash but that 30% savings is definitely not bad.

[pyotr filipivich]

MOP CAP on Sat, 24 Feb 2018 19:15:03 -0800 typed in rec.woodworking the following:

So my problems may just be with the kind of wood I'm trying to cut.

All things considered - still a deal.

thanks

pyotr

[krw]

I've had NiCd battery packs rebuilt, as well but haven't had good luck with them. Another six or twelve months, for 70% of the original price isn't worth the bother. Li batteries changed the whole game.

[MOP CAP]

In aprevious post I told of a person in Oshgosh WI who makes a kit for using 20 volt Li batteries for older 18 volt NiCad tools. A bit pricey. But probably the same as an 18 volt rebuild. Go to Craigs list Oshkosh and search for battery adapter or such. Very happy with mine. I have no connection to this person other than a satisfied customer. CP

[J. Clarke]

That search doesn't find anything. Perhaps you could post a link?:

[krw]

I did a web search for something like "battery adapter Oshkosh WI" and found them. I don't have the exact phrase but it's something like that.

[nailshooter41]

Been through the whole battery rebuild with a rebuilder here in town and tr ying it myself. Waste of time. If this is an occasional use tool (which I would rate Ryobi as that) then I would do something like this

I have used a few of these, and when you get them from a reputable dealer t hey are a great deal.

BTW, using a battery powered circular saw to cut up old pallets falls far b eyond the range of that tool. I have two of the Ryobi circular saws and I get a lot of use out of them, but continued use of chewing up dirty hardwoo d isn't one of them. I can cut up a couple of sheets of plywood, a bunch o f 2X4s and have no problems. When I do demo, the saw doesn't have any real wattage power to back up hard, continuous work.

If this is your first little battery powered circular saw, don't think this is in the league of those big 20V things they are selling now for site wor k. These are handy, lightweight saws made for convenience, not a day's work . You have to keep a sharp, CLEAN blade on the saw, and cut straight lines . More importantly, you can't get much more than few cuts with the little black batteries that ship with the saw (all the more reason for secondary m arket batteries)and really need more amp hours than they provide.

I found the Ryobi 4ah batteries two for $49 a couple of years ago and sprun g for them. It was like a completely different saw.

Robert

[Jack]

I had some cheap Black & Decker 18v tools that had 1300 mAh batteries. When the batteries died I bought some cheap HF 1500 mAh batteries. Took them apart and replaced the batteries in the B&D case. The 1500mAh batteries were a good bit taller than the originals but I discovered the B&D battery case had a plastic false bottom that when removed, the taller, more powerful HF batteries fit perfectly. Cost me $12 for the HF batteries ($16 now) and they work great (well, better than new anyway). Saved about $50+/per battery pack.

Now I have 2 20 volt lithium craftsman batteries for a saw, sawsall, circular saw and light combo kit I got from Santa one year. Tools are great, but one of the batteries died 4 years ago, and nobody fixes lithium batteries and now Sears doesn't carry them. I reckon if/when the other battery dies, the tools will be scrap. That sucks because these tools are really good considering they are Sears.