I use a 'push stick/hold down that rides the rip fence made from 1/4"
ply that has a small piece on the back that pushes stock forward AND
holds the front edge down. The blade guard and splitter are on
On Mon, 24 Oct 2005 04:32:49 GMT, "Billy Smith"
I recently saw a type of push stick that was made to ride in the
channel of a Biesemeyer type of fence. It would hold the work piece
down. and push it through.This would make it simple to push thin pieces
through, and keep control though the whole cut. I plan to make one with
replaceable push and hold down parts, and even have it hook up to my
I can't remember (the memory is the second thing that goes as you get
older. I can't remember what the first thing was.) where I saw it,
maybe Woodshop News. It was one of those things that makes sense to me,
like why didn't I think of that.
I have seen this happen and we used to demonstrate to students why you
do not stand behind the blade.
Our saws had a kickback pawl only on the piece against the fence if
As was explained to me if the offcut piece is very small the air
movement between it and the blade can suck it into contact. If it
touches a tooth travelling nearly parrallel to the table it can catch
and be thrown at nearly the blade speed.
We always cut small stock with the blade set for maximum depth.
I dont really know if this explanation is correct but it made sense to
me at the time.
I have made a hold-down of sorts using a piece of weather seal. The
aluminum and rubber strip to seal the bottom of the door. Clamped at
the right height behind the blade it provides a drag on the workpiece.
It seems to me that unless it is quite long, a push stick that rides in the
channel of a fence will, as the leading end approaches the cutting edge,
take the hand too near the teeth.
The work situation should be that the reflex forward movement that happens
when something goes wrong will not take the hand near the blade.
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
often times I stand at the side/end of my unisaw and use the hold down
pusher thingys that came with my jointer. Blade guard and stuff is still
on but I like to be out of the way.
Billy Smith wrote:
I'm betting that the stock was in less than an inch
thick and you had the blade set low - gullet just
above the surface of the board. Splitters typically
are only close to the rear teeth when the blade
is set all the way up and the distance between it
and the rear teeth gets bigger as the blade is
lowered. So on cuts with the blade set low, there
can be several inches between the spillter and
the rear teeth.
Now add "anti-kickback" pawls that'll let a piece
of wood get between it and the splitter AND have
some slop in them - well they ain't doing what
they're advertised as doing AND they are doing
what they shouldn't be doing - pushing a piece
of wood into the rear teeth coming up out of the
Then add a blade guard that prevent you from
using a wide push stick controlling the piece
AND the off cut. . .
If you haven't had a kickback in ten years -
well consider yourself blessed. Go buy a
lottery ticket 'cause you're a lucky man.
European table saws come with a riving knife
rather than a splitter. It stays close to the
blade around almost the entire rear quarter
of the blade and can be set within millimeters
of the teeth. And it has a dulled knife edge
rather than a flat face towards the blade. Keeps
the kerf open and wood at the back of the
saw blade clear of the Evil Rear Teeth. Why
they aren't standard on U.S. market table
saws is a mystery to me.
Glad the "learning experience" didn't include
a trip to the emergency room.
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