If I understand you correctly, that would give you a greater chance of kick
back as it is generally the wood engaging the back of the blade that causes
the kick back.
Many recommend toeing the fence out slightly (1/64") at the back ... AWAY
from the blade.
Sounds like you are not using a splitter ... if not, you should be. Your two
kick backs could have more than likely be prevented with one. A poorly
aligned saw will also give you a greater propensity for kick back.
You need to sit back and figure out what is causing this ... a good book on
table saws, like Kelly Mehler's, appears to be in order.
... and don't stand directly behind the blade.
Why does it sound to me like someone is trying to use a mitergauge and a rip
fence at the same time?
If I am right, remember that a rip fence is not a substitute for a stop
block. You can always clamp on a short stop block that ends before the blade
"G.E.R.R.Y." <DON' email@example.com> wrote in message
This is a common technique for ripping thin stock. You put a board along
fence such that it only extends from the front of the saw to the back of
This becomes the fence that the wood rides against.
This also provides a "relief" gap directly past the blade to help keep
stock from being
trapped between the blade and the fence. I believe I saw this in Mahlers
All the books I've seen give you two options: (1) fence parallel with blade
along entire length and use a good splitter/riving knife or (2) toe-out back
end of fence away from blade by 1/64".
Wider, not narrower.
Suggest you share more with the group on saw specifics; stock specifics;
I attached UHMW to the entire lenth of the fence of the saw. I also
bought a Bies Splitter w/pawls that has never failed me and I have
gotten to see it work. So it saved me at least once. You know, I only
was overjoyed at having spent $125 on that little device. I never
thought "gee, could've saved that money and taken my chances at
dodging that peice of wood". By the way, NEVER put UHMW on the fence
of your miter guage. Most people attach a super fine grit say 400-600
grit sandpaper on the miter guage fence to keep wood from slipping as
they cut it. Don't want anything but a fine grit-more coarse will mean
more sanding later on.
On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 12:24:06 -0400, "G.E.R.R.Y."
"G.E.R.R.Y." wrote in message
If you will answer the question, "Were you using a splitter?", you might get
more information that will help you.
Terribly bad idea ... hardly think what the rest of the woodworking world
needs is a tapered fence.
Simple solution: Adjust your methods of use and alignment to those that are
tried and true down through the years and you will be safer, get better
cuts, and more enjoyment out of the tool.
I don't subscribe to the theory, but respect those that do ... and there are
bunch of knowledgeable woodworkers who do toe their fence out 1/64" at the
You need to try it to see if helps your situation ... do this while your are
aligning your saw, but do that FIRST.
Again, you would be better off using a splitter if you haven't been;
aligning your saw; not standing in harms way; buying a book on table saw use
and safety; and trying toeing your fence out the recommended amount
Forget all the other stop gap measures and advice ... they are
unsatisfactory and will compound the problem.
Oops - sorry then. Misunderstood "narrow" in the context.
That's the point - it is not parallel, but the idea is that 1/64" at the
back end of the fence has no discernable effect on the cut. Whether 1/64 is
enough or not, I don't think the answer is cut-n-dried. It probably would be
enough for many potential kick-backs and insufficient for a few.
Again, I think consensus is that you would end the "auxillary fence" about
2" *before* the start of the blade.
To me - I think the best approach is to do what you can to avoid kickback
- fence parallel to the blade
- good splitter
then make sure you're prepared for the event
- keep fingers clear
- stand the hell out of the way
I bought the Accuset,
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
which claims accuracy of "better than 10/1000 inches". Well, turns out
that it is closer to 15/1000 or 1/64". I found this out by measuring.
Then, I spoke to someone at the company, maybe the boss. The leg for the
outfeed (they have to make an assumption there as to what side the fence is
on) is set 1/64" off so that when the scales line up the thing actually is
not parallel. I never could get an answer I could understand when I asked
how a device with a 1/64" offset could claim 10/1000" accuracy. Returned
I think you're going a far with 1/8th inch. What about the outer edge
of the cut pulling in toward the back of the blade. You know, the
teeth on the blade are NOT flush. Seems like after you make the
cut the outside of the wood goes in toward the body of the blade,
and by the time it reaches the back would be flexing against the
disc, and heading right into back teeth.
Am I crazy?
The software said it ran under Windows 98/NT/2000, or better.
So I installed it on Linux...
Set it *dead* parallel and use a push board rather than a push stick to better
hold the workpiece down. With T-square fence set at an angle, changing the
blade height changes the rip width, rendering the scale useless.
If the miter slots are parallel to the blade, and the fence is parallel to the
miter slots, the fence is necessarily parallel to the blade as well. If the
fence toes out from the miter slot by a given amount, it necessarily toes out
from the blade by exactly the same amount.
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
How big is the workpiece?
From your injuries, it seems they might be quite small. Small pieces,
especially ones that are nearly square, pose a high risk of kickback due
to the possibility of the piece rotating as it passes between the fence
and blade. A tiny amount of rotation -- even just a few thousandths of an
inch -- can be enough to cause a violent kickback.
A splitter, which can prevent kickback on longer pieces, especially those
with internal stresses, does not protect against this particular type of
kickback. The best solution for cutting small pieces is to use a jig;
often a crosscut sled will suffice.
If the saw has been properly adjusted, and you're using it properly, with
properly prepared stock, this isn't an issue.
First off, proper use.
If you're using the rip fence as a length stop for crosscuts, this is the
cause of your kickbacks, when the cutoff binds between the blade and the
fence. Don't do that. Instead, clamp a block to the rip fence, that extends no
farther back than the leading edge of the blade, and use that as your length
Make sure that the boards you are cutting stay flat against the table at all
times. Use hold-down jigs or featherboards, if necessary, to achieve this. If
the stock comes up from the surface of the table, it's very easy for the teeth
of the blade to catch it and throw it back at you.
*ALWAYS* use a splitter or riving knife for *ALL* cuts that go all the way
through the wood.
Also, stand off to one side a bit. If you're not in line with the blade, you
won't get hit by stuff that's thrown back.
Next, stock preparation.
Wood must be straight and flat before you attempt to rip it on a table saw.
Warped, bowed, twisted, or cupped boards can easily be seized by the blade,
and kicked back. If your wood isn't straight and flat, then either make it so
with a jointer and planer (see the latest issue of Fine Woodworking for a
great article on stock preparation), or use a band saw to cut it.
Finally, proper adjustment.
Set the blade exactly parallel to the miter slots. Your owner's manual will
describe how to do this. (It varies, depending on the type of saw you have, so
I won't attempt to describe it. What works for my saw may not for yours.)
Measuring "exactly parallel" is a *lot* easier with the TS-Aligner or
TS-Aligner Jr (http://www.ts-aligner.com ). [I have no connection with the
manufacturer, except as a *very* satisfied customer]
Then set the fence exactly parallel to the blade, or angled *very* slightly
away from the blade toward the rear.
You can get a face shield at Lowe's for fifteen or twenty bucks. IMO, it's
well worth it. And don't stand directly in line with the blade.
Final recommendation: get a book or two on table saw use. I recommend both
"The Table Saw Book" by Kelly Mehler, and "Table Saw Magic" by Jim Tolpin.
They may be available at your local library.
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Don't kid yourself about how fast your reflexes are ... they don't even
signify in this situation, as your bruises amply prove.
How about the splitter? Were you using one?
One of the benefits of the wrec is that people can learn from other's
mistakes. Your answer to this question may help someone else avoid injury in
the same manner.
sometimes when your ripping the stress in the wood can close the saw kerf,
that is why I use a splitter. I was crosscutting plywood when it bound up
and chucked it at me, took a second to realize what happened when I got off
the floor, I now have 12 inch long scar on my stomach and you can count the
layers of plywood in the scar, oh yea that's why I use a splitter
On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 10:36:42 -0400, "G.E.R.R.Y."
1. Make sure the blade is perpendicular to the table.
2. Make sure the front of the blade is the same distance from the
miter slot as the back of the blade. There's specific instructions on
how to measure all this. Make sure you read your manual.
3. Make sure your blade is raised just high enough to cut thru the
material you're working on. An extra 1/2" or so should be plenty.
4. Make sure your blade is clean...and sharp. Learn how to sharpen
it...or have it done professionally occasionally.
5. Consider getting a saw of low horsepower...or adjusting your
present saw...so that the blade will bind instead of throwing out the
material...until you get more experience. This can't be done with
every saw, however.
6. Don't stand behind the saw when you cut.
7. Make sure the back of the fence is further from the blade than the
front of the blade...to help prevent binding.
The fence is actually a big T-square, Gerry. If yer gonna make the
front part able to ride horizontally along the track...and you want to
make the fence tapered to smaller at the far end...then the piece yer
CUTTIN' would be tapered, too...since yer running it along the
fence...the vertical piece. And a tapered cut is not what you
normally want, of course.
I didn't use x-axis and y-axis...but I think you'll get the picture.
Don't be nonchalant when you run a piece thru, Gerry. Use your
strength to hold it down on the table. If you can't hold it down
easily, use a wide push block...maybe made from a piece of 2x4. You
can make one that you can actually run over the blade along with the
piece yer cuttin'...as long as you have your blade height adjusted, of
And don't FORCE the wood thru. Give the saw blade a chance to cut.
Good luck...and be careful!
Oh...as most folks mentioned...get some books...or do some reading on
Have a nice week...
Cat...the OTHER white meat!
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.