I have been using a Kreg system for about a year. It does not have
much application in my work but it does come in handy every now and
then for bracing or support.
I do find that *sometimes* the pocket-holed piece will jump forward
just slightly when cranking down the screws.
It is minor but if I were using it for finer work it would be a
problem. I have tried a number of solutions from the manual but I
still seem to get this from time to time.
I don't have a Kreg but Norm did mention on one of his shows that he
clamps a block on the face side of the joint to prevent slipping. I've
also seen him use those wide jaw vise grip clamps across the joint
Pretty much as always, the thread would rather push away initially. Pays to
clamp things in position, though if you've got the right bits, the slick
shank should draw at the end.
Wish I had a penny for all of the times I thought I could hand-hold the two
pieces together and ended up backing the screw out and getting a clamp. A
good habit to clamp dry no matter what kind of fastener.
Thanks for the comments guys.
I should have added that I get good results with the clamps but in
most cases for me the clamps are not practical.
I was hoping someone might have a way around this.
Welllllll you did not mention your application. I often will use pocket
hole screws when adding a stud to a wall and will use a spacer between the
new stud and an existing stud opposite the side with the pocket holes. This
spacer will prevent any creep. Basically some type of stop behind the piece
you are fastening in place.
Joe Bemier (in firstname.lastname@example.org) said:
| On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 13:09:38 GMT, "Leon"
||| I have been using a Kreg system for about a year. It does not have
||| much application in my work but it does come in handy every now
||| and then for bracing or support.
||| I do find that *sometimes* the pocket-holed piece will jump
||| forward just slightly when cranking down the screws.
||| It is minor but if I were using it for finer work it would be a
||| problem. I have tried a number of solutions from the manual but I
||| still seem to get this from time to time.
|| You must use something or a clamp to hold the pieces together
|| where you want them to stay.
| Thanks for the comments guys.
| I should have added that I get good results with the clamps but in
| most cases for me the clamps are not practical.
| I was hoping someone might have a way around this.
Clamps are just the "easy" way. The misalignment "jump" is due to the
parts not being held firmly together while the screw starts in the
DeSoto, Iowa USA
I find that in cases where clamping is a problem, running a long (6")
skinny drillbit (3/32") in advance, helps quite a bit. Then I don't
tighten the screw to full torque, but do the last twist by hand whilst
(there's that word 'whilst' again) tapping things in place with a small
I often put cleats between cabinets where the dishwasher will attach
later as granite doesn't take screws worth a hoot. Pocket holes are
perfect for that application and small dead-blow hammers, for that fine
tuning, are my friend.
I do that where ever possible also. The biscuits eliminate the need to
clamp the screws and the screws eliminate the need to clamp the biscuits; so
it is not much more work, but the result is much stronger than either alone.
I built a vanity with mortise and tenons *and* pocket screws. The M&T
provided alignment and strength, the screws let me take it apart for
shipping. After it was fitted to the room it was going in, *then* we
glued it. The screws held it together while the glue dried.
It's a useful combination sometimes.
A couple of notes on pocket holes screws...
(1) Clamp when you can
(2) If you can not clamp... hand drive the screws
Power driving the screws creates too much torque
and is difficult to keep the joint tight.
It looks good on TV when old Norm drives them
screws home but after driving a metric assload
of screws, the hand driving will be much more precise.
I keep a ratching screwdriver just for this purpose.
Make sure you use the correct screw for the material.
(1) Coarse screws for soft wood and plywood.
(2) Fine threads for hardwood.
Joe Bemier wrote:
Not sure if, by "foreward" you mean that the faces go out
of alignment or the position shifts along the edge of the
piece to which you're attaching an end grain part.
There are two types of vise-grip clamps that solve these
problems. One has flat, round, pivoting jaws. If the two
parts are the same thickness it prevents face misalignment.
The other one has a flat, round pivoting head and a blunt
end "pin". The "pin" goes into one of the pocket holes
(assuming there are two on the end grain piece) and the
swivel jaw goes on the outside edge of the other piece.
Keeps the parts from slipping "up and down". Using both
locks everything in postion.
When I bought the Kreg 3 master system a few months back, I also made sure
to buy the right angle clamp you're talking about for locking the pieces in
position when fastening them down. It's not an indispensable clamp for the
Kreg system, but definitely a very useful one.
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