I guess it is the terminology. But when you
grease a wheel bearing you don't remove the race.
And when you replace a bearing, most sources also
caution you to replace the race. That caution
indicates that the race is separate. So is the
race a part of the bearing or is the cage and
rollers the bearing? Regardless of the
terminology, the unit to change in a saw is one
piece and in a car is two pieces, so there is a
considerable difference between a bearing for a
saw and a bearing for a wheel.
Correct, and you are not replacing the bearing either. You are only
Yes. Use every thing that comes in the the bearing box. The 2 pieces are a
Sometimes they are. 1 of the races is seperate. The inner race is a
permanent part of the bearing assembly. Rear wheel/axel bearings are often
all one piece with both races a permanent part of the bearing similar to the
one that the OP is asking about. It must be pressed off and on.
So is the
Is the piston a part of the engine? Yes the race is a part of the bearing.
Front wheel bearings have, like most bearings, 2 races. One is permanently
attached to the bearing assembly, it rides on the spindle and the other is
press fit into the drum or rotor.
Regardless of the
Typically the front wheel bearings on a rear wheel car are 2 piece. Front
wheel cars use 1 piece front wheel bearings. Rear axels on rear wheel drive
cars can have one piece or 2 piece. Rear axels on a front wheel car are
typically 1 piece. Almost always a serviceable bearing is 2 piece and
nonserviceable bearing is 1 piece.
I am sorry for terminology but english is not my usual language. So let's go
I want to remove the complete part circled in red in the following picture:
It is a ball bearing on the shaft of a table saw similar to Delta 34-410. I
am able to remove easily the other one on the left.
I tried gently but it didn't work and don't want to break anything.
According to the picture, does this part move to left or right? Maybe this
part is welded on the shaft and I need the replace all the kit ?
Any suggestion is appreciate.
If it is a Contractor Saw there should be a spacer between the
bearings and both bearings come off the pulley (left in your picture)
side. The fit is press on the shaft so a gear/pulley puller or press
is required to get it off. Remove the pulley, then the first bearing,
then the spacer, then the second bearing. The arbor flange is
induction welded to the shaft so you can't go to the right.
If it is a Contractor Saw II, the design was to service the shaft and
both bearings as a unit. There is no spacer on the shaft, only a
raised section that establishes both bearing seats. It is possible to
pull the arbor flange (flange is pressed on to a fluted clinch section
of the shaft) and pull the flange side bearing to the right, however
this is not reccommended because it is most difficult to press the
arbor flange back on and keep from getting arbor face runnout.
I can't tell which it is from your picture, If you have an actual
model number you can go to the Delta Web site, tech service, parts
list and see an exploded diagram of the assembly. assmuming you do
not still have your parts list and diagram that came with the saw. or
call delta tech service.
hope this helps.
Thanks for the information on the two types. I
wonder if they switched from the standard
bearing/shaft type to the Contractor II type
because of safety, maintenance, and guarantee
concerns or if they just wanted to make more money
by selling the whole unit. I have to ask, did
Ford make this part for them? ;) I would guess
so from experience with parts designs on my Fords.
Btw, I just replaced the original battery on my
1994 Explorer. The cable positive side nut was
1/2" and the negative side nut was 12mm. Who
would design that?
On Sun, 18 Dec 2005 22:52:56 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
No, the Contractor Saw II was a lower cost unit to try to hit a
specific price point and still offer a solid unit with 1.5 hp
induction motor cast iron table and good sound guts, with a couple of
nice fence options. The design of the arbor assembly was that way to
keep the initial cost of manufacture down. There was no intent to run
up the service revenue with the design. The original Contractor was
still being built when the contractor II was introduced and in fact
has out lived it. The Contractor II was discontinued about 8-10 years
I have to ask, did
There are all kinds of bearings including those
that have no bearing cages and all the parts are
separate. Did you want to also mention that we
were talking about roller or ball bearings? Or
should we also discuss babbitt and bronze
bearings? I think you just like to argue and
complicate the issue.
The point is that most people are familiar with
bearings on the non-driven wheels of cars (front
or rear) which have bearing cages that fall out
when you remove the brake drum or disk. Removal
and replacement of the outer race is obvious or
should be to anyone with a little experience.
Some saws may not have one piece bearings but I
bet most are single piece, permanently lubed, and
sealed or shielded. To someone who has never
changed bearings on a saw, it is not at all clear
how to get the bearings out and it certainly won't
be immediately obvious how to press the bearings
onto the shaft and into the bearing holder without
damage to the bearing.
Some rear drives have a "non-serviceable" axle bearing, in that the bearing
outer race & rollers are press fit in the axle housing, but the inner race
is actually the axle surface itself(DAMHIKT). One of Fords better ideas, at
least on their late '80s & 90s F150 P/U trucks. If the bearing goes, it
takes the axle surface too. I guess you could stretch the definition to mean
a "serviceable" bearing as long as the axle is considered the inner race.
Stupidity is not considered a handicap, park elsewhere.
The jointed picture was deleted. So, Here is my question again:
I have a Delta table saw and I need to replace the ball bearings. It work
for the firts but doesn't work for the second one, circled in red at :
How to remove it?
Thank you !
I suspect you are not applying enough force to move the bearing.
It looks like the bearing needs to get off by moving to the right
(I do NOT know this for sure). Trap the bearing on top of 2
hardwood scraps and rap the threaded end of the shaft while
protecting the threads with a wood scrap. Make sure you are
pressuring the bearing's inner race when working with the new
bearing. It should not matter on removing the old one.
There is a chance the old bearing had Loktite or similar which
would require mild heat to release. A healthy rap from a hammer
should move the bearing at least a little. WD 40 or similar can't
hurt and might assist in getting it moving.
(top posted for your convenience)
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
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