I agree with everything you wrote and just want to point out that their policy isn't implied, it's specific.
There's a big sign in every store that reads "100 Percent Satisfaction Guaranteed," along with their generous and clearly worded return policy.
...I stand chided and humble. Good points and many missed by me...
cg
As to the "waste of time issues, you may have a point. If you are employed and earning sixty-five dollars per hour it would be difficult to justify an hour round trip and visit to the local HFT much less an expected return visit to collect the refund as the cost in your time when added to the price of the discount item will likely approach the cost of the brand name gizmo.
Cannot agree here with this analogy. Even if one is employeed and earining $1000 per hour it is a very likely chance that he is buying this product during his "Free Time" Free time does not pay. Regardless of the price if you are on free time and not being paid, returning the product for a refund results in you being financially better off providing the cost of the trip, ware, tear, and gasoline to return the product, does not exceed the value of the refund.
I had the same loosening problem but I read a thread somewhere about putting a rubber O-ring on it. I did and it cured the problem.
It may not be a MultiMaster but I sure have gotten my $35 dollars worth.
Jim
Haven't kept up with the thread. Was using loctite mentioned?
I had the same loosening problem but I read a thread somewhere about putting a rubber O-ring on it. I did and it cured the problem.
It may not be a MultiMaster but I sure have gotten my $35 dollars worth.
Jim
I didn't snip it because I agree with all of it.
Having been self employed for almost 30 years now, there are only two types of time for me now.
Time when I make money.
Time when I don't make money.
So the tool would go back after the regular work day, Saturday after work, or a holiday. Inconvenient, yes. Worth a chance on the tools to save a couple of hundred bucks? Yessir. Keep in mind that the $200 Multimaster is relatively new to the scene, certainly making its market appearance in response to all the clones.
While I only have three or four HF tools, their failure rate amongst other contractors seems to reflect my experience, which is not different from other tool manufacturers. I am happy to set that aside as an issue in this instance, and moreover would point out that the subsequent posts seem to point out that with proper usage the problem has cured itself.
And compare warranty services. With Fein, you mail off the tool at your cost to an authorized repair center. According to Woodcraft, the tools are usually back in your hands within 4 - 5 weeks. With 3-5 days travel each way, that's really not that bad. But at HF, if you have the $5 policy on the tool, you walk in, hand them the tool, and they hand you a new one.
No down time, no waiting to find out when it will be back, no planning around an absent tool, no shipping fees, etc. IME, returning something to HF is absolutely painless.
So while we are calculating the cost of wasted time for contractors, it is important to think of the warranty/repair service offered as ANY tool that is actually used will break or wear out parts. This of course is in comparison to a tool that would be a shop queen, often admired but used a handful of times a year.
The guys that charge $400 - $600 for different tools that cost tens of dollars to make ask/plead/beg for a knockoff. When I was dying to buy the Multimaster, the kit I wanted was the middle line model, and it was about $$500 or so. I knew that they advertised that you could build a house with one, but all I wanted one for was to cut the bottom of door jambs loose. I had a contract with a company to finish and replace entry doors and many times the jambs were captured by tile or wood floors installed after the door.
I really wanted that Multimaster. After hearing the disappointment from my amigos when using it as a sander, or after using the ridiculous grout removal tool, I decided that the only thing I would use it on regularly was doors. But $500.... I was only cutting out about every third jamb, so I backed off. I bought a new shop vac and a Bosch half sheet sander instead as a dust collector. I use that setup all the time.
Now I only put in a couple/three doors a year, and I am glad I didn't buy the Fein. I could see buying the HF tool though, because even at $35 and being used 2-3 times a year on doors only, that tool could pay for itself in the first two doors.
Next time I an running flush and the sale comes up, I might bite. After all, if I don't like it, HF will take it back with no questions asked for 30 days.
Robert
Not mentioned, but wouldn't Locktite interfere with changing blades?
Not if you pick the right grade.
Lew
Loctite generally causes more problems than it solves. The need is for getting the fastener tight, not gluing it in a loose position (such as with loctite). To get tight and remain that way, the screw is run in until the head contacts the part to be held and is then turned somewhat further, putting the screw in tension. Due to the large surface area of the thread engagement and the 60 degree angle of the threads, they will gal and seize well before the body of the screw comes under tension. Buy using a high pressure lubricant on the threads,the screw can be turned enough to put it under proper tension and it will hold much tighter than it would dry. The lubricant used must be a high pressure type (Lubriplate, Antisieze, etc.). Something like 3 in 1 oil will not do it. Putting the body of the screw under tension is the same way a lock washer works. Though the screw may not be really tight(due to the galling), the spring pressure of the washer holds the screw under tension preventing it from loosening. In addition, anyone that has worked with black pipe will tell you, the pipe will not seal without the application of Teflon tape or pipe dope before assembly. Pipe dope and Teflon tape is NOT a sealer. It is a lubricant which enables you to tighten the threads enough for the threads to make a seal. The point? Use some anti seize on the screw.
Fasteners using loctite are not meant to be loose, but tightened to spec.
There is galling and there is GALLING. Torquing a fastener to spec is putting it under tension and is what holds it and what torque specs and torque wrenches are for. This causes galling on a microscopic level whichs is acceptable and does not prevent fasteners from being torqued to spec multiple times. This is common with many fasteners of varied materials. Stainless steel IS highly prone to galling, but can still be torqued to spec without lube and without major galling, but it's a crap shoot. When SS really galls, you'll know it. That sucker is welded and will have to be broken to remove.
Good quality lubricants like motor oil, graphite, etc, can provide adequate lubrication.
Not a great choice, but better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick. Also, WD40 is NOT a lubricant.
Lock washers work only partially by tension. The primary locking mechanism is by the washer digging into and deforming the fastener/contact points into a nonslip surface.
You can turn bare pipe threads beyond their max engagement and they will still leak. You can turn bare pipe threads to optimum engagement and they won't seal, but upon adding tape/dope and turning to same level of engagement, sealing occurs. Yes, it is a sealer. And, yes, it is also a lubricant.
At the very least, some sort of lubricant is preferred. Even alcohol is better than nothing. OTOH, using no lubricants whatsoever is acceptable practice under required conditions, regardless of the fastener material. Depends on the application.
nb
So could you just use teflon tape?
So could you just use teflon tape?
Yes.
On Tue, 02 Jun 2009 15:42:48 -0500, the infamous TD Driver scrawled the following:
Use with a 3/8" breaker bar and wrench on the tool shaft
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