I use the LongRanger, I think it is. Yep:
To go with the PSI 2HP DC w/1 um bags:
and an iSwitch:
on my mini HF DC, that I've been using for my SCMS:
To keep noise to a minimum, I prefer the switch right where I'm working. I
glued magnets to the remotes and "stick" them to the cast iron on the tools
I'm currently working at. I don't have to go around and bend down to open the
blast gate every time I turn them on. I guess one could put both systems in
The iSwitch works quite well for the SCMS (though the dust collection on the
SCMS only sorta sucks) because it comes on with the SCMS switch. Each are on
opposite 120V legs, so startup surge isn't a problem.
I just finished swapping out the initial hard switch on the DC for a
motor starter for the primary express purpose of adding an umbilical
cord w/ a remote control station can just carry around.
In doing so, I had enough room in the starter box to move the motor
start capacitor out of the little switch box on the machine and so still
have just a single box there w/ local start/stop plus the remote that
goes where ever I want it at the time...
The beauty of the magnetic starter is you can add an unlimited number of
remote control stations simply w/ the cost of a much cheaper low-current
wire run than any of the remotes and it's rock-solid reliable. Add a
time delay relay in the off side at the controller and you can have the
delayed-off as well.
Once I get the final location on the fixed equipment I'll add the DC and
their control stations as a unit operation. Here's link to a handy set
of logic diagrams to allow you to set up controls as desired...
You can use either a 2-wire or run 3-wire control for the remote
station--see Fig 1 and 2 at the attached; I had an old start control on
hand so went 3-wire here.
The setup is shown in Fig 10 (p 9) for a single-phase starter; the
various remote options are shown in following pages using three-phase
but for single phase just toss out L3. (All the starters I have are
actually 3-phase because I found a whole passel of used Rockwell
starters cheap taken from a bunch of old Rockwell-Delta planers at an
auction so I bought a dozen of 'em for $20.)
The diagram for the setup here is Fig 14 (p 11) altho it'll look more
like Fig 18 (p 13) eventually when go to the multiple start from single
NB that the key to all this is the logic diagram -- "Start" are in
parallel; "Stop" in series.
I think all the UL certification means is that their test unit did what the
package said it would and when it failed it didn't fail too dangerously.
Testing things until failure is a fun job, that's why so many of us do it
for free. *g*
Did you test the Shop Fox? Mine died. Within the first week one of
the remotes died. I had to return the whole shebang to get a
replacement. Then After a few months the outlet plug on the Shop-Fox
melted! I got a better one from Grainger and wired it in. Worked
fine for a few months, then last week it just gave up the ghost.
Running a 1 hp delta dust collector.
No I don't think those things could affect the on/off switch of the DC. You
could bypass the switch entirely and use the remote control to turn it on off?
On Saturday, August 25, 2012 2:55:25 PM UTC-4, Han wrote:
That's the saddest thing I've heard around here for a loooooong time.
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman
Good use but you did get the implication (and difference) between your
original "nuts" and "wire nuts". right? OTOH, maybe you *did* and they
really *are* <sob> leftovers from a bygone era. It does happen...
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