Dust Collector remote oddity

Hey, all-- I could use your help.

I'm running a Shop Fox 1HP Dust collector on 240v. 60 Hz; only 1HP. Runs l ike a dream.

I picked up the PSI Long Ranger III DC Remote system. 220V. It's rated fo r 2&1/2 HP; 220V, 60 Hz. I'm running 240V; 60 Hz; only 1HP. I programme d the remote, plugged the Remote switch into the Outlet, and the DC into th e switch. I turned my paddle switch on.

I hit the power button on my remote, I heard a click inside the box...

... but nothing from the Collector.

Click on, Click off. No air movement. Paddle is ON.

I unplugged the DC, and plugged it direct into my outlet; ran like a dream , as usual.

I figured the switch was bad. I grabbed my voltage pen tester, turned ever ything on, and it reads hot all the way to the DC Motor. I hit the remote off; tester went off. remote off, no current. remote on, there's current .

The switch is working, the paddle is on, it's hot, and the remote works, b ut it's not firing the DC. What in heck is going on here?

Is it possible that the rating between the 220V of my switch and the 240v o f the DC is really stopping this thing from going? My ignorant understandi ng is that 220v & 240v are widely interchangable.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Reply to
Steve
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if you have a meter, attach the meter to the long ranger receiver. You should be getting 220 or 240 in the output. perhaps you are only getting one leg (120v) through, meaning that the long ranger is only wired for 120... if that's the case call them and find out what to do.

Reply to
woodchucker

ns like a dream.

d for 2&1/2 HP; 220V, 60 Hz. I'm running 240V; 60 Hz; only 1HP. I progr ammed the remote, plugged the Remote switch into the Outlet, and the DC int o the switch. I turned my paddle switch on.

ream, as usual.

everything on, and it reads hot all the way to the DC Motor. I hit the re mote off; tester went off. remote off, no current. remote on, there's cur rent.

, but it's not firing the DC. What in heck is going on here?

0v of the DC is really stopping this thing from going? My ignorant underst anding is that 220v & 240v are widely interchangable.

Thanks-- Great idea. I'll hit it with the tester. It IS a 220V receiver /switch... but yes, anything can go wrong in the wiring. Thanks again, Jeff!

Reply to
Steve

Runs like a dream.

ted for 2&1/2 HP; 220V, 60 Hz. I'm running 240V; 60 Hz; only 1HP. I pro grammed the remote, plugged the Remote switch into the Outlet, and the DC i nto the switch. I turned my paddle switch on.

dream, as usual.

d everything on, and it reads hot all the way to the DC Motor. I hit the remote off; tester went off. remote off, no current. remote on, there's c urrent.

ks, but it's not firing the DC. What in heck is going on here?

240v of the DC is really stopping this thing from going? My ignorant under standing is that 220v & 240v are widely interchangable.

er/switch... but yes, anything can go wrong in the wiring. Thanks again , Jeff!

you are correct, sir-- Pos-neg read nothing, but pos-ground read 120. P robably as simple as opening it up & reconnecting a lead... but I don't thi nk I'll be taking any chances with this one. Back it goes for a new model! Thank you again.

Reply to
Steve

No, that's not your problem. There is no "220V" service. It's all "240V". Anything marked "220V" is really "240V". I suspect a motor wiring error but it's impossible to debug this sort of thing over the Internet.

Reply to
krw

Hot to ground should read 120V. If it's a 240V supply, there should be *two* hots, each reading 120V to ground and it should read 240V hot-to-hot. If it reads 120V on both hot-to-grounds, and 0V between the two hots, then your 220V circuit is wired improperly. You're not connected to both sides of the mains. It's probably a miswire in the breaker panel. The two hots should come from adjacent breaker slots in the panel (with a double throw breaker). This all assumes that your house has 240V available in the box.

Reply to
krw

. Runs like a dream.

rated for 2&1/2 HP; 220V, 60 Hz. I'm running 240V; 60 Hz; only 1HP. I programmed the remote, plugged the Remote switch into the Outlet, and the D C into the switch. I turned my paddle switch on.

e a dream, as usual.

rned everything on, and it reads hot all the way to the DC Motor. I hit t he remote off; tester went off. remote off, no current. remote on, there' s current.

works, but it's not firing the DC. What in heck is going on here?

he 240v of the DC is really stopping this thing from going? My ignorant un derstanding is that 220v & 240v are widely interchangable.

eiver/switch... but yes, anything can go wrong in the wiring. Thanks ag ain, Jeff!

Probably as simple as opening it up & reconnecting a lead... but I don't think I'll be taking any chances with this one. Back it goes for a new mod el! Thank you again.

Thanks-- I follow and I absolutely appreciate your input, and yes, I'm usin g the wrong terms, so I thank you for the correction, esp. if someone after us finds a similar problem.

Hot-to-hot read 240 at the outlet. My receptacle is fine-- it's a problem in the PSI switch. There, hot to hot on the receiver/switch read literally nothing (yes, it was switched on.); I understand that there are two hots, but one wasn't. Therefore, I'm calling one pos & one neg (neutral, really, for precision), just as a default.

At the switch, pos "hot"-to-Ground on the receiver read 120; the "other (s hould be but wasn't) hot" to ground also read nothing.

From this, I gather that only one hot lead had correct contact in the box. Would you agree?

I'm returning the unit, and I'll post how the new one goes; Delivery is ci ted at "3 to 8 days." Thank you again.

-- and thanks for the confirmation that 220 is 240 is 220. That's what I h ad always thought, too.

Reply to
Steve

The switch is defective. Seems one of the relays is open.

Box? Do you mean the switch? I'd expect one of the relays (or contacts) is defective. It could be a broken wire but it's not user serviceable in any case.

That's all you can do. PITA, I know.

Well, it's the other way around. ;-) "240V" is the correct designation, just as "120V" is correct ("110V" no longer exists).

Reply to
krw

1HP. Runs like a dream.

t's rated for 2&1/2 HP; 220V, 60 Hz. I'm running 240V; 60 Hz; only 1HP. I programmed the remote, plugged the Remote switch into the Outlet, and th e DC into the switch. I turned my paddle switch on.

like a dream, as usual.

turned everything on, and it reads hot all the way to the DC Motor. I hi t the remote off; tester went off. remote off, no current. remote on, the re's current.

te works, but it's not firing the DC. What in heck is going on here?

d the 240v of the DC is really stopping this thing from going? My ignorant understanding is that 220v & 240v are widely interchangable.

receiver/switch... but yes, anything can go wrong in the wiring. Thanks again, Jeff!

  1. Probably as simple as opening it up & reconnecting a lead... but I don 't think I'll be taking any chances with this one. Back it goes for a new model! Thank you again.

sing the wrong terms, so I thank you for the correction, esp. if someone af ter us finds a similar problem.

em in the PSI switch. There, hot to hot on the receiver/switch read litera lly nothing (yes, it was switched on.); I understand that there are two hot s, but one wasn't. Therefore, I'm calling one pos & one neg (neutral, real ly, for precision), just as a default.

(should be but wasn't) hot" to ground also read nothing.

x. Would you agree?

cited at "3 to 8 days." Thank you again.

I had always thought, too.

Sure it does. You can't have 120V with having 110V. ;-)

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Notice the quotation marks. ;-)

Reply to
krw

my guess is that you have a heisenswitch in the circuit

in other words it behaves differently when you observe it

Reply to
Electric Comet

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