Rockler sells a router control switch, with big buttons and a set of
extension cords. My Delta 1200 cfm machine plugs into one of those just
fine. Paid maybe $15 on sale.
Simple is often good.
Could you provide some more details on the X-10 module. I've looked at
that keeping in mind that my unit is 1 1/2 HP and that the amperage
rating for the module should probably 15 or 20 amps. I was concerned
about interference and wondered if a filter would also be needed. It
looks like a more expensive alternative than the $40-60 remote kits, do
If you bought yours through the web, do you have a recommendation?
Thank you, in advance.
I use three of these X-10 appliance modules
http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Appliance_Modules for turning on and off my
dust collector, vacuum, and air filtration unit. But I didn't like the
RF, so I just have strategically placed mini controllers
http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Mini_Controller plugged in around the shop.
They work first time every time for on and off, and I really like the
"ALL OFF" option the mini controllers offer. (The "dimmer" function
doesn't do anything, though ;^)
"What do *you* care what other people think?" --Arline Feynman
What I did in my shop since I was building it from scratch, is to put
light switches at the table saw, work bench, and about every 6 feet
along the wall where I have woodworking equipment.
I connected the switches in parallel so that any one of them will
activate the dust collector. Since my DC is 220 vac I just used a
relay with a 120vac coil and rated for 200vac/20 amps.
I had a long ranger RF control but I kept misplacing it and spent too
much time looking for it. This way I have no more than 3 feet to a
> What I did in my shop since I was building it from scratch, is to put
> light switches at the table saw, work bench, and about every 6 feet
> along the wall where I have woodworking equipment.
> I connected the switches in parallel so that any one of them will
> activate the dust collector. Since my DC is 220 vac I just used a
> relay with a 120vac coil and rated for 200vac/20 amps.
Replace those light switches with momentary push buttons and you gain
undervoltage protection that I previously described.
Also using light switches requires that you make sure they are all OFF
to make sure the D/C is off.
> I had a long ranger RF control but I kept misplacing it and spent too
> much time looking for it. This way I have no more than 3 feet to a
Wireless remote. I have the Long Ranger, but other types are available. V
E R Y handy to have.
For a while I used a remote control by Shop Fox (I think). It seemed to
work perfectly, but then I heard it turn the collector on long after I
had quit for the day. I didn't like the idea of it possibly running
while I was gone so I stopped using it. Instead, I hard wired a switch
ahead of the DC outlet. The switch is above the center of the shop and
is fairly convenient (and shouldn't start on its own).
"R. Pierce Butler" wrote:
> What do you use for dust collector control?
The following is based on my many years of motor control design and
It may be a bit of overkill, but you had to ask.
Let's assume the D/C motor operates at 240V, then you need a 2-pole
contractor with a 120V coil and an auxiliary control contact supplied
in a NEMA I enclosure. (This also works for a 120V motor)
At every tool station where you have a D/C pickup, you mount a START
momentary push button station, again in a NEMA I or better yet a NEMA
A single momentary STOP P/B is located at a location of choice.
Any START P/B station starts the D/C.
The D/C keeps operating until the Stop button is pushed.
The system provides under voltage protection.
R. Pierce Butler Wrote:
> What do you use for dust collector control?
I'm lucky--I have a new Oneida system that includes a remote on/off
switch that looks just like a car alarm remote. I can turn my system on
or off from anywhere in my shop. I'd check to see if you can retrofit
your dust collector with a magnetic switch with remote on/off
And I don't recommend leaving your system on all the time unless you've
got pretty good ear protection.
I use a simple system of strings through screw in "eyed screw ins" attached
to the main switch. It runs overhead around the shop (like the buzzer on a
bus). It has worked well for five years. Cheers, JG
I plan to add a wireless remote in the apron idea. More important is
where your gates are. When I open and close them they are all close to
the collector to make it easier. I used 6" pipe instead of 4" and
changed shop around to shorten runs.
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