Digital? One of the very nice things about digital is that one knows immediately if they are unsatisfactory; if so, one can immediately do whatever is necessary to retake them in a satisfactory manner.
Digital? One of the very nice things about digital is that one knows immediately if they are unsatisfactory; if so, one can immediately do whatever is necessary to retake them in a satisfactory manner.
To keep noise to a minimum, I prefer the switch right where I'm working. I glued magnets to the remotes and "stick" them to the cast iron on the tools I'm currently working at. I don't have to go around and bend down to open the blast gate every time I turn them on. I guess one could put both systems in series.
The iSwitch works quite well for the SCMS (though the dust collection on the SCMS only sorta sucks) because it comes on with the SCMS switch. Each are on opposite 120V legs, so startup surge isn't a problem.
Correct! "Cut" it on, LOL
But to be on the safe side, take a picture of "yourself" before making changes, another picture of yourself after making changes, post on line for us to valuate. You may not be using good judgement after the modification!. :~O
Leon wrote in news:zq- snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
Too late for that. I have the pictures of what I did, though they are of terrible quality. With regard to myself, I am finally, finally getting noticeably better from my whooping cough. Still need cough medicine every
4 hrs, almost 4 weeks after antibiotics."dadiOH" wrote in news:k1der1$qad$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
Working in a cramped space. Some looked acceptable when I took them, others I couldn't get better. Description of what I found and did:
The switch on the DC (Harbor freight 2 HP model 45378) looks very sturdy from the outside. I unplugged the machine for a few hours before proceeding, just in case the capacitor would ring my bell (deemed very unlikely by Keith here).
2 screws hold the plate with the switch in place. Unscrewed them.Lifted the plate and used the end of a screwdriver to release the clips holding the switch. There were 4 wires to the switch, 2 black, 2 white. I removed the wires from the switch. Don't know what the push-on connectors are called.
I opened the switch, and looked at the contacts (it just fell apart when you open it). One of the contacts had at least 1 mm of "crud" on it, presumable from sparking when the switch closed, or power was applied (I had the switch always on "on" and used a remote to apply power).
I threw the bad parts of the switch out. Then I wirenutted the black wires together, as well as the white (to "bypass" the switch). I put the defunct switch into the cover plate to fill the hole in the cover plate, and screwed it back in place on top of the switch "box". Covered it with duct tape to remind myself of the proceedings and prevent any flood waters from getting in (lot of good that'll do in a real flood).
Everything works fine. Thanks for you guys' advice and interest!
" snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Great suggestion of magnets!! Will do soonest.
That was a problem with the toolswitch thingy from Sears I had, tripping.
I'll take a picture.. piece of cake.
I put all my blast gates at workbench height. That way I don't have to lean down. There's no point to having to lean down all the time... just sucks.
I guess one could put both systems in
Wow, bummer. It may be an indication of the extent of damage the coughing has caused to your lungs. REST, Han!
(From
"Cough mixtures, expectorants, and suppressants are usually not helpful and should NOT be used."
-- The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold. -- Glenn Doman
I have them as close to the tools as possible, though I guess with my new shop I can change that. I'm planning on keeping the DC in a central location to minimize hose length to the tools, though.
Thinking about it, the above isn't true (there is only one cord). They just come on at different times.
Han see my images at
The aluminum tape is basically tape for sealing HVAC ducts. The rest should be self explanatory.
This wires into a relay so the wires are all low voltage. The relay is what trips the 120VAC..
My gates are self cleaning, it works, occasionaly I have to touch the brass to bend it out.. but I didn't spend a lot and I didn't want dust to mess with the micro switches. This works as well or better.
Sounds like moisture got the low value switch and the parts /spring broke by corrosion.
Mart> >> On topic!
No I don't think those things could affect the on/off switch of the DC. You could bypass the switch entirely and use the remote control to turn it on off?
al
Larry Jaques wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Well, at the advice of my doctor, I do use cough medicine - expectorent/cough suppressant guanefesin/dextromethorphan, as well as menthol cough drops. They help because my lungs are/were full of slime that made me get "paroxysmal" coughing fits. The expectorant especially helps get the stuff loose. But I'm going to see a pulmonologist next week to get a better opinion.
One thing the link points out is that everyone should get a "The Tdap vaccine should be given around age 11 or 12, and every 10 years thereafter." It says it is for adults 19 to 64. I've had tetanus shots at least every
10 years, but apparently not Tdap. As soon as I am really healthy I'm going to get it. NOTE: There are many different strains of pertussis. The "normal" immunity one gets is against a surface antigen on the bacterium that mutates like flu. The vaccine is against an intracellular componenet that is essential for all pertussis. But it wears off after 10 yearsa.Martin Eastburn wrote in news:BLA_r.636922 $ snipped-for-privacy@en-nntp-13.dc.easynews.com:
My basement is fairly dry. I think the switch was low quality, and arcing killed it, but of course my basement in NJ isn't the same as the Arizona desert.
tiredofspam wrote in news:8sCdnR7vXeS-TafNnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@ptd.net:
Thanks! link is bookmarked, but I may not even need it anymore. Indeed simple.
Ribbit wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
Thanks, Ribbit. It's done like you said, Took the switch out and wirenutted the wires. All is functioning at $0.00. I used the nuts I had .
Didn't that hurt?
Good idea.
Jeeze, I haven't had any innoculations in at least 30 years, I don't think. I had the full set(s) as a kid, but none since my teen years that I can remember.
I got a flu shot once and got a bad case of the flu from it, so I don't do that any more.
-- The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold. -- Glenn Doman
Just a wild guess, but could you have installed the relay way back when _because_ the on/off switch felt funny? I've done things like that before, then forgotten why.
-- The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold. -- Glenn Doman
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