HF 1200 CFM DC

A different question...new DC (yes, HF based on many reviews), new hosing, cartridge filter on top, etc....

Not getting much suction, regardless of what point..does the cartridge need to get some dust coating on it (like a felt bag) before it really pulls? Am looking for someone who has experience with this model personally, although opinions are always welcome..thanks all..

Reply to
cc
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No, The dust coating helps filter the smaller particles on a bag but on a cartridge it simply restricts air flow. Clean the inside of the filter and air flow should increase. Did you by any chance replace the cartridge with one that filters smaller particles? If so, there is part of your problem. And, you want to insure no restrictions are present.

Reply to
Leon

It has a 14a motor. It never really pulls. And it only gets worse when it builds up dust on it.

Reply to
Toller

I have the HF unit with just bags on it and it works great. May I ask how much, what diameter, and length duct or hose you have on it? Greg

Reply to
Greg O

If you read

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it says no 14A/110 motor can produce 1200 CFM. Best case scenario is around 600 CFM BEFORE any ducting. After 4" dia. hose and filters, this will drop to 300 CFM at nozzle end. This matches Wynn Environmental's test of the HF collector with their filters
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Their measurement after a bit of use is 330 CFM at 3800 FPM. (This is the benefit of a cyclone separator, it keeps the filter from getting clogged.)

BTW, Bill's research recommends 800 CFM and 4000 FPM *AT THE TOOL* as the bare minimum to be safe. Opinions here vary on how overboard this is (from completely to not at all), but advertising a 15A/110 motor dust collector at 1200 CFM ? Caveat emptor!

Reply to
Steve Hall

I have 10' or so going to the RAS, with a blast gate, straight run, no turns..second port goes to seperator trash can, 3', no turns, with blast gate..all using 4" flexible tubing..??

Reply to
cc

It should handle that, no problem! I use a couple 15 foot flex hoses, no blast gates, and my el-cheap-o HF collector works great! Greg

Reply to
Greg O

I doubled the filter bags, which of course doubled the through put. But then I decided to get all the dust out of the shop that I could and used the blower assembly to power a cyclone and ducted the discharge outside into an "outhouse" (complete with a "half moon" on the door.) Works very well and the shop is cleaner.

Deb

Reply to
Dr. Deb

then what is the problem with my setup? the filter is the one recommended from Wynn Environmental, and the durotex version (lifetime filter)..even my shop vac seems to suck more..

Reply to
cc

It doesn't matter what the true HP or CFM of this unit is. The fact is very many of us on this forum are using it for smaller shops (one tool at a time) and it works great. If the OP is getting bad results with his described setup, something is out of whack, and it's not because the specs are optimistic. Mine is ducted all over the shop with leaky blast gates and 4" PVC that is screwed, not glued together and it works fine for one machine at a time. Shure, shure I could glue the joints and get the expensive metal blast gates but it's not worth it because IT WORKS FINE.

To the OP, I'd guess that either your cartridge is badly clogged, your DC is defective, or you have a BIG leak somewhere. Since you probably have checked the cartridge and the integrity of your ducting, you might well have a bad DC.

Now, I will say that your expectations of "suction" may be wrong. The DC will not generate nearly as much negative pressure as your shop vac. It moves much more air, but will not suck nearly as hard. That said, the 4" flex hose moved along the shop floor should suck up a swath of fine sawdust similar to a vac.

How does it do on the RAS? Mine pretty much catches everything on a 90 degree crosscut. Yours should work as well or better because your setup seems to be much more elegant than mine.

Tom

Reply to
tom_murphy

A shop vac should "suck more" than a DC, if we are talking actual suction. The DC should move MUCH more air. There is a difference. Kind of like a garden hose with 50 PSI of water vs. a firemans hose with 5 PSI. The garden hose will put out water at more pressure and would be my choice for washing the car, but the fireman's hose will put out more water volume and would be my choice for filling a swimming pool.

Dave Hall

Reply to
Dave Hall

Are yuh shure bout that 5 psi on a fire hose??? It takes pressure to shoot a stream of water a hundred feet.

Reply to
Leon

I wasn't trying to say that a fireman's hose would only have 5 PSI. In fact if I am not mistaken a fire hose attached off the same main as a garden hose will have the same water pressure in PSI as long as the line it is attached to is at least as big as the hose. The analogy that I was trying to create was if you had a small water hose in a high pressure environment it would be great for a pressure use like washing the car (BTW I certainly would not want to wash my car with a fire hose at 50 PSI). If you are in a low pressure environment a fire hose will still move lots of water which is nice for filling the pool. Obviously this is not a perfect analogy for a number of reasons, not the least of which is that air and water systems are not comparable, but I find it the best way that I have been able to get the basic concept of a DC vs. a vac across to folks who don't want to read some

200 page treatise on dust collection theories and have never actually worked with a DC. For most people the DC volume vs. the vacs "sucktion" is a foreign concept.

Dave Hall

Reply to
Dave Hall

For sawdust, you should have a relatively small hose to keep air VELOCITY up. (28mm is about right -- sorry inch-o-philes lol

28mm is about 1-1/8")
Reply to
Cal

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