The tires were supposed to be 'non glue'-- Well, IF my BS wasn't a
1940-50 model. And IF the wheels were coplaner. And IF the bearings
in the top wheel weren't a lot iffy. So I put the new orange tires on
-- really had to work at it after soaking in recommended tempreature
soapy water for the recommended time-- took 3 clamps & a LOT of
pursuading & a LOT of cussing. Waited about an hour for them to cool
& put on a new 3/4" blade. Tentioned as good as is possible on the old
BS, turned it on-- let it run about a minute. Opened it up & the top
tire was coming off the back of the wheel in one spot (about 1/8th of
the wheel) . Moved the tire back on to the wheel, resawed a 4x4--
about 12" long-- s l o w l y. Turned if off - the bottom tire was
coming off-- Long story short-- I looked under the tires & they were
still wet from installation. (slightly) -- Two questions
1. is this a temporary problem due to the wetness under the tires? and
2. what glue can I get to glue the tires to the wheels
2a. Is this a good idea?
Hard to say but reasonable thinking would say that if you use water as a
lubricant to slip the tires on it would probably help to slip them off.
Laguna glues their tires, MiniMax does not. However MiniMax uses specificly
designed tires that fit into a grove to keep the tire in place.
That said, Inturra Design sells a 3M adhesive for bonding tires to wheels.
The 3M product is Scotch -Grip 847 Rubber & Gasket Adhesive. Inturra
Design Part # 10043 $8.50 for 5 oz. 1-888-722-7078
Sounds like you have a severe co-planar wheel alignment issue, IMHO.
Really excessive blade tension may cause this as well.
I have used the orange BS tires, and have had no problems to date.
A 3/4" blade is pretty wide for a 14" saw, what size is your BS?
Greg- The BS is a really old Parks/craftsman 18"--The upper wheel seems
to be out about 1/2"-- at some point, someone 'replaced' the bearings
with sealed bearings & from the looks of the hub, they used a very
large hammer to pound the wheel back on. I tried to use my small puller
rto remove the upper, but it wouldn't budge. I think there is a set
screw holding the upper shaft in (if I can get to it without removing
the wheel) -- I think the whole wheel needs to be shimmed out about
1/2" & needs new bearings. (when the blade tracks, the blade back is at
the back of the bottom wheel & the blade front is at the front of the
top wheel) I think the shaft, wheel & bearings can be bought at DC
Morrison (parks supply) In Ky. Just have too many things on my plate
right now. I found out what kind of saw it is on OWWM. --
Well, that's a pretty severe misalignment. The wheels need to be in
line with each other for the blade to track properly.
Also, wheels on old saws may not be grooved for the tire, or crowned
for proper tracking. It there is not a "channel" that the tires fit
into, you will have to glue them into place. If the wheel is not
crowned, you _may_ need to crown the tires by hand.
For what it's worth, I run a web site that depicts the tune up of a
Delta 14" saw. While not directly applicable to your saw, the
principles of alignment remain the same.
Good Luck. Old Iron can be quite a challenge - especially if a large
hammer has been used in it's past maintenance.
First of all, I'd get the wheels to be coplanar if they are thay bad.
Contact cement will work and there will be some hope of getting it off in the
future. You could also try a high-end bike shop and see if they sell glue
for sew-up tires. That's made for bike tires that hold when ridden but can be
removed when you get a flat.
If I was going to glue it, I'd use bicycle tire sew-up glue. This is
used to glue tubular sew-up tires onto bicycle rims. It handles heat
fairly well, is temporary, and is used for rubber/metal interfaces:
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