On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 13:38:16 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm, Enoch Root quickly quoth:
An old Stanley #60-1/2 would do him right. Don, goto
If I were you I would definitely get the LV LABP, I got one, and it is really nice quality. But also check out eBay for a nice looking Stanley #5 jack plane (avoid the color maroon, dreadfull, blue is okay), you'll need that, and you can upgrade the blade with a Hock or LV A2 or HCS steel blade (easier to sharpen than A2). That's the basics, then there's tuning the #5.
Have to disagree somewhat with this point. In a bailey or other bevel-down style plane, all you need is a slight back bevel on the iron to accomplish the same thing.
"AAvK" wrote in news:pH8of.425$Bv.371@fed1read03:
Thirded, or fourthed, ... not sure. The LV LABP would be a great starter plane. It'll work great, right out of the box; and it's not terribly expensive; and useful as all get-out. If you want to chamfer, get the little chamfer attachment for it as well.
I, too, in a fit of ignorance, bought the evil Buck Bro #5 from the borg. Don't go there.
and use it.
Start off with a #5 or #4 1/2. Find an old Stanley in good shape. We ain't talkin' big bucks. Also get the Taunton Press Mario Rodriguez video on planes. That will get you started. Learn to tune it so you can get shavings so thin they have only one side. That feels good.
When you get the urge, and you will, then spring for a fancier, sexier tool like a Lie-Nielson or Knight. The old Stanley will still serve you well, and you might get a jointer like a #7 just to show off.
With all due respect...DO NOT buy Buck Bros., Great Neck, Craftsman, or other economy hand plane...even new Stanleys. You're much better off getting a good used Stanley ('60s & earlier are good), Millers Falls, Sargent or Lakeside plane.
FTW, I bought a newer Stanley #4 with plastic handles and no matter how much I've tuned it I can't get it to cut tissue thin shavings. On the other hand I also bought an older Stanley #6 and with NO tune up other than honing the blade on waterstones I am able to make tissue thin shavings with it...thin, like one ply of a double ply Kleenex.
Layne
Also,
I forgot to mention that whether you're a neander or a normite you
*need* a block plane.Layne
Hear-hear! I entirely agree. I absolutely love all my old Stanleys, and reading in this ng is why I got into them. They are easy to get in good shape on eBay and local "used stuff" shoppes. I hate one #6 tho... it's a type 8 that needs a ton of tuning and fettling, and I paid too much for it. So the best policy is to get one that "looks really good".
Folks, Thanks for all the good advice. I think I'll try the Lee Valley Low Angle Block Plane first, since it seems to match my hazy vision of what I need a plane for. It's not out of reach price-wise and shouldn't require a lot of tuning to be useful. If I have a religious experience as a result and convert to neander, I'll look up the other recommendations to start my collection. Thanks again and Merry Christmas!
DonkeyHody "Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him."
Life will never be the same, once you open up your first LV plane box. Hell, even my WIFE thinks they are cool. She likens them to "a work of art". I especially love the design of their shoulder planes. I'll wager that every Xmas, birthday, and Father's Day, you'll have a plane on your Want List!
Dave
Have to add my 2c.
First off, agree with all the others about the block plane, my most used by far. If your going to stick with machines for bulk planing/jointing, then I'd suggest you learn to use scrapers first, hand and plane types. My problem with larger planes is that I don't have a good place to secure the wood, no big sturdy bench, your not going to be happy jointing or planing on a couple of workmates not matter what plane you have! I have all kinds of planes, most used or cheap or old and cheap :) The mediocre ones can be tuned fairly well. Used every one of them for something. Have a great older Stanley jointer plane, used it for rough planing a couple times (in 20 years), have never even bothered to tune it. Without a secure work piece it's useless. I'd rather use my Inca jointer to finish and my Makita power planer for rough work (Well tuned THIS is a very handy tool). However my $30 Record low angle block (tuned) with adjustable throat will finely slice anything I can muscle it through. Use it for all sorts of things, small chamfers (no jigs), smoothing jointer blade nick lines, tenons, etc... I also keep a crap block plane handy for "construction" A shoulder plane with removable front piece is very handy as well. I have a small 1941 Record 077A, works great for all sorts of things. I'd like to use my OLD nameless #12 scaper plane more, and have a couple under $5 flea market wood planes not worth repairing that I've used for "rough" work.
If you've got the bench or whatever and want to neander your wood, the others have given great advice, smoother, jack, jointer.
And yes, a bench is finally on my radar.
-------------------- Steve Jensen Abbotsford B.C. snipped-for-privacy@canada.mortise.com chopping out the mortise. BBS'ing since 1982 at 300 bps. Surfing along at 19200 bps since 95. WW'ing since 1985 LV Cust #4114
Nothing catchy to say, well maybe..... WAKE UP - There are no GODs you fools!
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