I posted a pic awhile back of it in an as yet unfinished state.
Someone asked how it worked, and I couldn't answer because I was waiting for an opportunity to harden the blade.
I brought it to a local artist's workshop--he has a forge, but was holding the tongs and it seems my poor communication skills got in the way and the result was a still very soft blade.
Okay. I got an oxy-acetylene kit and hardened the blade. I'm having issues with the finish... I started with three coats of Tung Oil, then paste wax, but it seems (despite several wettings after which I scraped the surface) to've raised the grain somewhat. I'm rubbing beeswax on it and polishing with a cloth towel until something nice happens.
In answer to the question posed in response to my last post (i.e., how does it work?), I can lift a ~0.5 thousandth thick curl the width of the blade off straight hard maple stock.
That's a little ordinary though. I have a piece of wild-grain maple: nothing I have (which aint much... a modern stanley low-angle block I fettled a bit is the best of it) could cut this wood clean. Not it's intended function, this plane was made for general smoothing, not crazy wood, and has a standard 45 degree angle. But what the heck, give it a try. This plane glides through it one-handed! All that crazy grain is transforming into 3D figure. Now I can do something with that scary board I rescued from neglect in a HD wood bin.
Now that makes me happy. On to the next plane, and a cabinet. :)
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