On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 18:56:38 -0700, "AAvK" queried:
No cracks in the body, the iron still has its tang and is not pitted beyond recovery, the wedge fits and the profile on the body is still relatively crisp. Oh yes, and no rot on the body. Maybe one out of two or three moulding planes I have seen for sale is "good and usable". Sharpening is usually required.
Luigi Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
"AAvK" wrote in news:hQJ6d.1554$mS1.1454@fed1read05:
Give a shout if you find an online source for irons. Thanks.
LD
Shouting,
Both Ron Hock and Clarke and Williams will do custom work.
Alex
"AAvK" wrote in news:hcP6d.1899$mS1.1371@fed1read05:
Thanks.
You don't need "good", you need "adequate"
"Adequate" means that the mouth is in good order, and with some effort you can get it to work as a plane.
"Good" means that it also has a usable wedge, there's no woodworm, the iron has a flattish surface where it ought to and it's more or less clean. You can live with any of these faults, or re-make broken wedges.
Even the oldest buildings in Calgary are made of glass. ;-) I'm not surprised that this is the worst place in the world for finding moulding planes, but the abundance that seems to exist in every direction continues to amaze me. I'll have to get out more.
Hmmm...I've been planning a trip north for some time now...
Ken Muldrew snipped-for-privacy@ucalgazry.ca (remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
Yeah that sharpening is tricky and requires special stones for carvers. Alex
I guess I'd only want "good" ones, fettling is hard friggen work as I've discovered. I have now spent many hours doing what I have been reading about since catching interest and getting into this group! That's a big problem with most sellers on eBay concerning these types of planes, is the images they show, far too many are inadequate.
Alex
They never show the profiles !
Not that tricky and the stones are inexpensive enough. As a woodcarver I do it all the time and in fact I have several bent knives, gouges and a small scorp that I'm in the process of sharpening and tuning sitting on the desk behind me. (I work on them between working on the computer.)
What that sharpening is is time-consuming, especially on a complex profile.
(OTOH -- I sharpen my carving tools to a slightly convex cross section, which helps them cut the way I want them too. I don't know if that would be acceptable on a molding plane iron.)
--RC
They also never show how much blade is left, and many really bad, fuzzy pictures. Alex
Alex notes:
And you can bet that in nine cases out of ten, that's no accident.
Charlie Self "Politics, n. Strife of interests masquerading as a contest of principles." Ambrose Bierce, The Devil's Dictionary
I make my own. I use waterstones, and I already saw them up for some final sword polishing jobs. A wet diamond tile saw does it fine. If I need a special for a gouge, I can saw one roughly, then sand it to shape with a bit of J-Flex.
Andy Dingley wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Here is an exception: item # 6120702585
IIRC, this guy *always* shows the profile and most of the time shows the full iron. In fact, the thumbnail for every one of his current molding planes is the profile.
Here's another one: 6121357999
Unfortunately a lot of the sellers are in the Aunty Cue bidness and don't really know how to sell to users vs collectors.
LD
Great examples, in the normal manner of speaking. Any seller should do the same. Wenner1 is a great seller too, with a perfect record and perfect auction pages.
0 negs and 0 neutrals.Alex
I don't think I've ever seen a moulding plane with significant wear on the blade.
Rust and bad sharpening, rot and worm, yes, often.
But moulding planes have an easy life, compared to bench planes. Often, they weren't even used to create the moulding profile from scratch. Some roughing work was done with other planes (jacks, ploughs, rebates) to remove the bulk of the waste,
BugBear
You chums need to check this out: eBay 6121191255 you'll like it. Alex
I can see that working in an India stone, but for a waterstone any sort of constant radius movement looked like it would very quickly wear a groove.
I'm not a carver, and if I am doing any carving it's almost always in lime or maybe walnut, neither of which are hard on tools. I do try to keep a dedicated area of the workshop for sharpening though, to reduce setup time if I want to quickly hone something.
Even in lime (or it's American equivalent, basswood) or walnut you need to hone your tools constantly. Like every few minutes. Trust me, it makes an enormous difference in carving. You can use a stop which will conform to the shape of the tools or you can use the groove method, but in either case it's charged with honing compound.
--RC
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