Crown moulding needs base moulding ??

Logic

I'm clicking on the link but all I get is a blank page. Don't know if it's my computer or the link.

The link worked for me.

That's a reasonable width molding for just nailing to the studs and joists.

You shouldn't have to use nailing blocks unless you have trouble keeping the molding at the correct spring angle. The one you've picked is probably 38 degrees, though the web site doesn't say.

Ravi wrote in news:61072918-4b25-4d64-896c-dc36d5223560 @r19g2000yqb.googlegroups.com:

Have you ever installed it before? No?...buy lots of extra :-) What kind of saw do you plan to cut the angles with?

You can do whatever looks good to you. Some people like fairly narrow moulding, others like wide expansive moulding. The trick is to have backing that holds it at the desired angle while you secure it. That can be as simple as a block of wood cut at the angle you desire.

No.

Base moulding is at floor level.? 'Course you can stack it for a crown.

How tall are the ceilings? Will 4" crown look good at 10, 12, 14 feet?

He can try a jig saw* Coping saws give me fits. Which way does the blade teeth point? Push or pull the saw?

"Coping crown molding"

Oren wrote in news:c67ql5tceuvaoqflfl1gh479o36fqr7v10@

It's the inside and outside corners angle cuts on walls that are not 90 degrees (errr...all of them) that can cause havoc.

No base molding needed. Actually, "base molding" is something applied to the transition of a wall to the floor.

I installed a 6-layered 11" crown molding in my foyer. It is large but the foyer has a 18-foot ceiling. I attached a "base" to the wall, a dental layer to the base, another "base" on the ceiling, and another onto those. It would have been a much easier and faster job with a pneumatic nailer, but I only had a hammer and nailset. It still looks good after 14 years.