i have the same planer and when i got snipe it was because i was trying to
take too light of a cut
im not sure how much your taking off but try a little heaver cut see if
that helps also how thin of a
board are you cutting ?
<jditto> wrote in message
The optional feed tables, correctly set up, are supposed to help, but I
was still getting a little snipe. I wanted zero snipe, so I shimmed the
feed rollers, and now snipe is nonexistant. I wish they had an adjustment
for the rollers, but they don't.
Please post details of how/where you shimmed, shim size, etc. I'm not having
snipe problems on my 735, but I'd like to know what to do should they appear.
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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O.K., if you raise the heightof the cutter unit all the way up and look
at the roller ends, you'll see that the roller bearing blocks are held
in with a bracket and two screws. The bracket sorta looks like this:
| | <------ Bearing block
-------------\___________/--------------- <------- Bracket
The bracket has a dip in the middle, and the bearing block only
makes contact with this bracket at the ends of the dip. Those
contact points are what I wanted to shim, to raise the rollers up
a little bit. Why? I figured that if your making light cuts, the pressure
of the deflecting roller rubber is enough to pull the wood through;
you don't need the springs with their high pressure distorting the base
and causing snipe. The shims work really great and of course if you're
taking deeper cuts the spring come into play.
Alright, nothing was taken apart, and I did one roller at a time.
Crank the cutter head all the way up, and put blocks of wood
underneath the center of one roller. Lower the cutterhead and watch
the bearing blocks lift off the retaining bracket. When they seem to
"top out", stop lowering. You can now shim the two rollerblocks.
I had .020 sheet aluminum laying around that I bought from the borg,
so I used that. I cut out small rectangles that fit the width of the
bearing block. Then with a pair of needlenose pliers, bend a 90 tab
at one end, making sure the tab is small enough to slide between the
bearing block and retaining bracket. Then bend a 45 tab at the other
end, making sure that the remaining shim is slightly wider than the
retaining bracket. Insert the shim, 90 tab first, and let it lay on the
bracket. Then do the other bracket. Now raise the cutterhead, and
the shims will be sandwiched between the bearing block and bracket.
Now bend the 45 to a 90 with a screwdriver.
Repeat for the other roller.
Yes, the shims aren't held in that well when the bearing block loses
contact with them (when taking deep cuts), but mine haven't fallen
out yet. If someone can suggest a more elegant idea, let us know!
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